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hi new to this forum but have built a few trikes, I notice you seam to be using the rubber bushes to mount your axle to the swing arm, this will stop the axle from being a load bearing member for the swing arm hence the arm will flex causing your cracks, you really could do with running a brace across from one outer arm to the other making it triangulated, this will put a lot of strength into the arm. normally axles are mounted rigidly to the swing arm and effectively become a cross brace which prevents the arm twisting and cracking. hope you understand what I mean and good luck with it.

Cliff
 

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Discussion Starter #62
hi new to this forum but have built a few trikes, I notice you seam to be using the rubber bushes to mount your axle to the swing arm, this will stop the axle from being a load bearing member for the swing arm hence the arm will flex causing your cracks, you really could do with running a brace across from one outer arm to the other making it triangulated, this will put a lot of strength into the arm. normally axles are mounted rigidly to the swing arm and effectively become a cross brace which prevents the arm twisting and cracking. hope you understand what I mean and good luck with it.

Cliff
byt,

Welcome to the forum

I hadn't thought of it that way before.
If the fix I just did does not last I may eliminate the bushings and bolt it metal to metal.

The original thought was to eliminate road vibration to improve the ride.
Thanks for the input.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I repaired the swingarm today.
I sleeved the entire area with 3/16ths steel adding an extra long piece on the outside then welded it up solid.
Also added a cross piece between the two arms.
It was surprising how thin the original steel is in this area of the swingarm definitely the weakest point.
It is now quite a bit stronger.






Peter
 

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yeah they ain't too strong around this point and many are rotted through, my current project gl1500 was really weak, looks like the brace might help and obviously it's now a lot stronger so should be good.:claps:
 

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I anticipated this problem on my build and although I didn't use the oringinal swinging arm I welded a plate covering the area from where the swinging arm joins the frame to where you welded the cross piece.
 

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Someone may have already mentioned this.

But If you want to get better rear brake you need a Residual valve between the Front and rear,

so that brake fluid cannot back up and holds a enough pressure so that fluid wont back up but will allow wheels to turn freely
 

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I have a question on the front to rear wheel base deminion.How did you come up with it? And also the width between the rear wheels. I have an 84 that Im thinking about doing. Thanks for any info that you can help me with. Ive read all the conversion and dont rememberany mention of theabove.
 

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Looks like you solved your break issue. Another way to add strength to it is an 1.5" strip added to the top of the swing arm, centered atop of the swing arm. It's an old dirt biker trick for beefing up the swing arm.

I see what's in my future by what you did. I wonder if a Ford Ranger rear end would work? I got two of them laying in the corner.
 

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(also posted to the end of dcryder thread today)
Hi, My name is Perry and I'm new to this site. I just read thru your thread (dcryder) and postings of others and know I'm in good hands.
I was looking for a project have been interested in trikes so decided I should build one. Doing research I stumbled on this forum. WOW, this is something. Two weeks after the decision (March16) I acquired a 1986 GL1200A in excellent shape with 75000 miles and a 1984 IRS out of a 1984 Jaguar XJS also in very good condition. (Doubled the price on the IRS with all new brake parts, Oh well, still doing well on budget) Found BMW wheels and tires that will look great on the project. Got to love craigslist.
Both Wing and Jag are 2:88 final drive. Planning to start soon. I want to ride the Wing some to see what it needs but have some ideas for fixturing I will need first. The rest will be design as I go, and farming this site for advice. Can't wait to see pictures of your finished trike.
 

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This is a fascinating thread and I've enjoyed watching the progression of the trike. There's no way I could do something like this, just don't have the skills, but it's a blast to watch someone else do it!
 

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On the parking brake or E-Brake..have you thought about a band and cable type around the driveshaft??..it will serve the same thing and you wont have to deal with the pston problems that sometimes occur with that type of system..easy to fab as well..nice looking project and thumbsup!! ..with those shocks..you did not think about some shocks with spring assist wrapped around the shocks as well??..It may help firm up the ride a bit esp under load if wifey thinks about carrying the house with her (and a extra lard butt brother or neighbor or something/someone if hubby a'int one..(just a joke here so don't git mad at me)..)!!LOL.. Some type of rear sway bar config would come in handy to fit in there for handling those corners that you may have doubt about..Keep up the good work and you are doing a fantastic job thar good buddy..now giddy-up and git 'er dun!!!
 

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Hey Peterbylt, nice job with the trike. I think you just inspire me to build something similar with a 1984 GL1200 Aspencade that I have for parts at home. I am wondering since the differential is a 2.73 ratio which is lower than the original ration on the bike, did you notice any loss of power while rolling off from a park position or up hills? Also what about gas millage, any difference?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Sorry I haven’t been posting much lately, been out riding.
To answer a few of the questions I’ve been asked recently.

BlackWIng84,
The way that I came up with the distance between the wheels was mostly by measuring other Trikes. If I saw a trike that I liked the looks of I measured the distance from the outside tire edge to outside tire edge, the ones I liked the looks of were 55”. I must have measured at least 20 different Trikes.

The way that I came up with the wheel base was, after I shortened the axle and had all the parts removed off the back of the bike I set the axle up on jack stands and centered it on the drive shaft, I used a couple of pieces of square tubing to lay out all the pieces where I thought they should go in relation to the swingarm when all the angles looked correct and everything looked like it would all fit together and clear all the original frame parts that determined the wheel base. I don’t think I actually measured it except to make sure that the brake mounting collars and tire spindles were the exact same distance from the bolt and tube where the triple Tree is bolted to the frame. There are very few points on the bike that are symmetrical enough to take accurate measurements from.

I will make the wheel base measurement and post it.

Purplerider,
I am sure a Ford Ranger rearend would work depending on what gear ratio, Brakes and tire size you want to use, there are a couple of reasons I chose the 96 mustang rearend, the first and most important being that the gear ratio was almost the same as the Goldwings, I also wanted to be able to use the original disk brakes that bolted onto the rearend, and Scoto1 had used the same rearend in a couple of his builds and posted all his findings so I knew it would work and (pun intended) I did not have to reinvent the wheel.

Haveitwilluseit,
Good idea about the band brake around the drive shaft. But when I do get around to installing a parking brake I still think I will use the original mustang hand brake. I made sure I took all the cables and lever when I got the rearend. It’s just a matter of shortening (or coiling) the cables and positioning the lever. The rear disk brakes also use it as a tool for adjusting the brakes as well.

As to the coil over shocks, the original shocks have the springs inside, as well as the air adjustment, right now the shocks are a little too stiff even with no air, I am hoping that will ease up some with the weight of the body on the back otherwise I may have to get something else.
I do not believe that a sway bar is necessary, once you get used to the handling she runs around the corners like you are on rails.

Kalamata,
The gear Ratio is so close to the original that I do not notice the difference, she gets right up and runs from a stop light and I have not noticed any issues when climbing hills. The Bike I ride the most is a two wheeled 85 Aspencade and I can almost not tell the difference in launch or acceleration between them.

Peter
 

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Very nice build bud,was thinking of doing similar to a 84 for my wife.So this will be a go to article for me this winter.
 

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Reason I wondered if a ranger axle would work is if the axle shafts could be reworked. I know Gm axles can't be used, because they're tapered in the middle. The Ford 9" axles aren't, which make them a prime candidate for narrowing. Obviously you knew that the ford 8" is simular to the 9" axles. I suppose contacting the outfit that shortened yours would be the smart move now.

I liked the way you built yours, lots of good ideas went into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Ok, it’s been a while since I updated this build.

I’ve finally got the box for the back of the Trike built. A local welder friend of mine Keith, assembled it this guy is absolutely the best welder I have ever seen.

I am very pleased with the results. He built it out of 1/8th inch aluminum Tread plate.






The box is 20 inches tall, 18 inches wide and 34 inches long, that gives it a little over an inch clearance from the tires on each side.

The sides including the box are 42 inches long.
I had to cut an 8 ½ inch long by 8 inch tall opening in each side to clear the axel and have room for suspension travel.



While I was cutting the axel clearance holes, my angle grinder died a horrible shrieking death and started spewing out sparks and got so hot I dropped it.
I pulled the power cord out of the wall as It caught on fire so I dragged it outside by the power cord into the rain where it was extinguished rapidly.

I paid $9 for it at Harbor Freight 7 or 8 years ago so I can’t really complain. I finished the job with my new Heavy Duty $19 Harbor Freight Angle grinder.

I know I will have to remove the box at some time to work on the rear end or drive shaft so I made the two support brackets for the box slide into the rear shock mount frame much like a receiver hitch and then they are through bolted.





I was then able to test fit the box onto the Trike.





So far I like the looks of it.

I have ordered some matching fenders from Northern Tool they should be here next week sometime.

I have also started making a frame from 1 inch Angle iron to support the front sides to the trike.



Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I finally got the fenders in from Northern Tool.
They look pretty good and match the diamond plate the body is made out of perfectly.
I didn’t have time to do anything with them yet except to set one of the fenders on the tire and take this picture.



Peter
 

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Differential Choice?

I am reading this project post with real interest. I do have one question.
Is there not a "lighter" choice out there for the rear end??. Looks like serious overkill and very very heavy. I would think maybe some older foreign rear wheel drive model. MG, Triump or ? Harder to find for sure but I would think half the weight would be worth the effort.

Also I have not seen the posts further than welding up the swing arm so you might have answered this already. What did you do about the front fork rake.?? I think most commercial trikes have flattened the forks out
quite a bit.

I do admire your abilities to measure, cut and weld. I can make a cut three times and it's still too short.

wingryder
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I have finally got most of the parts and more importantly the time to get the body assembled.
I had to redesign the way the original Goldwing trunk mounts on to the trike and make it a little higher up to accommodate the opening of the larger trunk below.
So I cut a couple of pieces of square tubing that I welded onto a couple of pieces of angle Iron that bolt onto the trunk in the original mounting points and then fit into some larger pieces of square tubing welded to the top of shock mount frame, much like a receiver hitch. Then I drilled and bolted them.
This makes the trunk easy to remove, just pull the two bolts and lift straight up.
On The front of the box I created a subframe out of angle Iron for strength.



The front and angle diamond plate panels were cut to size and welded on.
Then we created the front cover with the same bends and edges as the rear cover making an angle on the front to match the front panel, after cutting the holes for the trunk mounts and seat with a plasma cutter it was bolted in place from the inside through the seat hole.
The fenders had some aluminum flat bar welded across the bottom inside edge and a tab welded on the inside top, these were drilled and through bolted to the inside using another matching flat bar on the inside. Then everything was assembled together for the first time.
I put the (Ugly) trailer lights back on just to drive it around, I am still undecided on what to use as the permanent tail lights.








Peter
 

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I just came onto this post & am very impressed. That is a great job that you have done there, Peter. :waving:
 
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