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Discussion Starter #21
Alright, I acquired the OEM manual. I'm going to have a read through the rear engine and final drive sections tonight and see if I can put all this together.

One final question before I put in all the work here. It's really pouring oil out of the final drive / engine boot. When I trailered it to my house, the trailer had about 3 oz of oil sitting it the bottom. The engine sounded pretty good, though, when I got it.

Is this sort of thing the "beginning of the end"? Should I just sell off this bike for parts and walk away? What could cause those rear seals to go so bad like that?

The guy did say that there was a slow leak in the rear suspension. Could that cause the final drive / engine coupling to be unstable and case the seals to go? Just trying to figure out if this is a symptom of a deeper problem or just something that happens on these older goldwings.
 

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There is no one thing that causes a drive shaft seal leak, physical damage is one possibility, bearing failure is another but hopefully just a seal gone bad
 

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There should not be much oil up where the output shaft is, probably wouldn't leak much without a seal in it. Make sure the engine is not overfilled.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Well, it's leaking like a stuck hog. When I trailered it to my house, the trailer had about 3 oz of oil sitting at the bottom of the trailer. Not running. When I got it home and checked the dipstick after running 5 min, the dipstick was dry.
 

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Could be the scavenger pump in the rear housing is not working and all the oil is collecting in there. If you will notice the output shaft is way above the normal oil level.
 

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Another thought, the crankcase breather could be plugged causing excess pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Alright, well how would the bike leak if it were off? I turned the bike on to get it up on the trailer, but then it wasn't on when it was on the trailer. So whatever drained out was collected from a very short phase.

I see how to check the breather: Check that Crankcase Breather
How would I check the scavenge pump? People seem to say that's a hard job to change.
 

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How would I check the scavenge pump? People seem to say that's a hard job to change.
The only way I know is remove the clutch cover, if it is full of oil the pump isn't working.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
@JamesPal It is the engine oil that is leaking, as far as I can tell. The engine oil is nearly empty (dipstick dry), but the final drive oil was full: about 5.5 oz. Also, there was about 2 oz of oil in the bottom of the trailer. Probably more than the rear shock, I'd guess.
 

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Here's the correct tools for the job.
I ordered the Park Tool tool yesterday, so we'll see if it fits in a few days.
 

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1 9/16" . The extension arm is on there for a reason @ torque value as I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So, the engine seal is messed up:
323376

It had a part on it that I can't find in partzilla or in the oem manual. Here's how it was:
323375


Here is that part by itself:
323380

There was no 6 or 8 from partzilla: Honda Motorcycle 1984 OEM Parts Diagram for Swingarm / Driveshaft | Partzilla.com Am I missing something?

323377


Here's the u-joint. You can see it's got no extra parts in it.
323378

323379

Here's the driveshaft:
323381


My question is this: are 6 and 8 incorporated into the driveshaft? Or are they just missing? Also, that engine seal is pretty damaged. It seems the oil could slosh out even when it was cold. I don't want to tear into the rear engine. Think it's safe to stop now? I plan to put it back together enough to start it without the rear wheel and see if it leaks.

Finally, I only had to move the right swingarm bolt to get out the u-joint, which has a normal bolt. I followed this guy's advice:
 

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Looks to me like 6 or 8 or both are there. Don't worry about that, not critical. The first part, the spring ring, is part of the seal.
 

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