'85 GL1200 LIMITED parts bike? NOT!

Good score, very reliable once all the kinks are worked out. Work/maintenance apart from the CFI system no different than any other GW. The CFI system is dependent on the ECU diagnostic program. It is very accurate.

Injectors are low impedance - need the resistor pack under the seat. Don't know if high impedance will work. Timing and fuel mixture, two of the more common issues cannot be changed. Adjusting the TPS dos not impact on these two issues, TPS setting is too close to make a difference - 0.47 to 0.49 V calibration, not a lot of wiggle room.

Recommend cleaning the stator connector beside the battery or replace it. You can solder the stator wires, but a new high amp connector will work just as well. Clean as many connectors as possible, resistance in these connectors from dirt/crud after all these years is a stator/RR killer. Do the connections at the RR as well.

If you need to replace the RR, there are good replacement shunt RRs on the market with better electrical component technology. Won't say newer because the MOSFET phenom has been around since the '50s I believe, but the OEM's decided to stay with the SCR technology, probably less expensive and takes up less room? A series RR uses these components and is the best replacement, but real estate to fit one is at a premium. Shunt or series RR, no such thing as a MOSFET RR (internal electronic component), is a personal choice.

These engines will work well with one MAP sensor and one cam (Gr/Gl) sensor functioning. The FUEL SYSTEM dash indicator light has nothing to do with the fuel system. This is Honda's check CFI system light - check the error code(s) being generated by the ECU. The fuel system is not monitored. The FUEL dash indicator light is a low level fuel tank warning.

If you start to have a fuel smell on start, once engine warms up it generally goes away. Have had this for many years and have learned to live with it. Can't tune the system to change the fuel/air mixture.

Agree with C-130 Jumper, a fuel tank cleaning would be good. Fuel filter change as well. I use a Beck Arney 043-0897, have to modify the holder a bit, but works well. These are others to consider: Hastings GF159/Fram G3969.

I have found that working on the fuel system is a PITA, gas smell and all. Replace the crush/sealing washers every time you work on the system. Used crush/sealing washers don't seal well, may be okay for some of the other systems, but not for the fuel system. Been through this many times. There is a special sealing washer used on the fuel pump discharge side that is no longer available from Honda for this model. It is available from Accura: P/N 16705-PD1-003.

Just a few initial thoughts. Enjoy your new ride, you won't be disappointed.

I ordered a fuel filter from Honda that fit an '85 Honda Prelude, it was larger than the original filter. I had to change the fitting from a 10mm to a 12mm nipple on the inlet side of the filter and I did install the new crush washers that came with the filter. No leaks so far. I had some time today to further do some evaluation and order needed parts, I pulled the fuel sender to see why it wasn't reading and also to have a look inside the tank. It had about 1/2 tank left. However when I turned off the petcock to drain the tank it did start peeing on me. Turned it back to open and it quit. Looks like new fuel cutoff time. It didn't smell bad at all, smelled like real non ethanol gas. Believe me I have smelled some that would stink up the whole shop. Well after draining the tank, it did have some trash that will need to be cleaned out, but hardly any rust. Believe me I have dealt with much much worse. Took the sender apart and luckily the resistor is still in good shape, I'm just going to have to do a little work on the wiper to get it working a little better.

The fuel filter I installed is larger and I had to modify the fuel filter holder:

The fuel petcock its ON when in the vertical position, and OFF in the horizontal position. The fuel sender is used for the FUEL level dash indicator - low level indicator. It is also used for the travel computer. The Travel Computer uses the fuel sending unit for the fuel management system.

The fuel petcock is probably not available, nor are parts. The one on my '85 Limited Edition leaked when I bought it. You can take it apart, invert the internal diaphragm and put back together. Did mine some 7 years ago and has been good since.

The fuel sending unit has a thermistor in the small silver cylindrical item. If the sending unit is not working, no readings on the Travel Computer fuel management system, the thermistor needs to be replaced. Need to be very gentle when doing this. Picture:

I finally had some time yesterday to finish cleaning the fuel tank and servicing the fuel sending unit. I filled the tank and confirmed that the petcock is no longer leaking. I also mounted the fuel filter and started reassembly. As I said before the fuel filter I bought for the Honda Prelude is larger than the original, but there is barely enough room to mount it securely and not interfere with anything else. While I was at it, I replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses. I took the old ones down to my local Napa parts store and found a single hose that I could cut and make both the upper and lower hoses from. The hose that I ended up getting was a Napa #8205 which cost under $30. I think I may actually try a short test ride this weekend once I get the rear brake master cylinder rebuilt and the brake lines bled. Thanks to all for the helpful advice. BTW, my 12 year old granddaughter has named her "Goldie Hawn-da"

The rear master cylinder that I got from ebay has arrived and I have rebuilt it with a kit I ordered from good old Randakk's. I will be installing this sometime in the next few days since the temps are going to be in the 70's and not in the teens. I believe that I have solved my leaking petcock by drilling out the rivets and inspecting. I took Rednaxs60's advice and turned over and rotated the internal diaphragm. I also replaced the "O"ring on the actuator. I used a Nitrile "O"ring from my Harbor Freight "O"ring assortment. I was able to use one that was small enough to fit in the groove and after putting the petcock back together verified that it no longer leaks and turns easily without binding. We'll see how long it lasts. I then filled the tank with gas with about 2 1/2 gallons and was pleased that the gas gauge was reading about half full. I then filled the tank up to the top and confirmed that the gauge was reading "Full". Once I can get the master cylinder installed and the brakes bled, maybe I can finally get my first test ride done.

Good to hear that issues are being resolved. Would recommend doing a fuel system pressure test, approximately 35 PSI static and ~30 PSI dynamic. For the static, pressurize the fuel system, let sit and monitor fuel pressure. If it remains in the 35 PSI range all is good, if not have to look for the reason the pressure is reducing. Fuel will either return to the tank or into the cylinders.

To verify the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is good, remove the vacuum hose to confirm no fuel coming out, if fuel comes out the FPR needs to be replace (not a likely culprit). If the FPR internals are good, pinch the fuel return hose and remove from the FPR with the system pressurized, be careful and confirm no fuel past the FPR.

To check for a leaking injector, get an inexpensive borescope from Amazon/eBay and view the cylinders through the spark plug hole.

Last and probably the hardest to diagnose is the fuel pump non-return valve. If the first two checks are good, fuel can only return to the tank back through the fuel pump. To confirm this is happening, pinch the fuel hose from the fuel pump to the fuel filter. If the fuel pressure does not drop, fuel pump internal non-return valve is the issue. Easiest fix is to install a non-return valve in the hose between the fuel pump and fuel filter.

The reason I mention where to install a non-return valve is that the fuel pump is designed to push fuel, not suction fuel. Need the least amount of restriction on the inlet to the fuel pump. These fuel pumps are capable of pressures up to 65 PSI before the internal record valve kicks in.

A "tight" fuel system is essential to the operation of the engine FI system - less crank time and such. Something to consider doing.

How is the fuel pressure holding with the key on and engine not started? Should be approximately 35ish PSI and holding. I ask this because it will indicate whether the fuel system is bleeding pressure somewhere, either into a cylinder, or back to the fuel tank. If the pressure is bleeding off quickly, there will be a lot of air in the fuel rail and this air has to be bled out of the system on start.

These FI engines, thinking carb ones as well, are in essence a car engine design in a two wheel frame. Mr Honda did a good job with these. From what I have read, Mr Honda took the best of the Honda world and incorporated it into the Gold Wing world.

Your issue with start and such is similar to what I have experienced, idle low at approximately 800 RPM, need to assist with throttle to keep from stalling. RPM picks up and is on a fast idle, approximately 1200 or so (doesn't take long) - no need to assist. RPM drops as the engine warms up to operating temp, then settles in at the 1000 RPM idle. Good for the rest of the day, then repeats next day after sitting overnight. Fuel supply issue - air in the system.

Your explanation indicates that the idle has been adjusted to compensate for a low RPM start. Once the air in the fuel rails is gone, all four injectors kick in to give you the high idle.

I would adjust the idle to 1000 RPM when engine is at operating temp - use the idle screw in the rear middle of the air chamber. Do not adjust the balance screw behind the right side CFI cover - only adjust this screw to balance the right/left cylinder banks, not to adjust engine idle.

I have ordered a non-return valve I will be installing in the fuel hose between the fuel pump and fuel filter. Doing this because the fuel pressure bleeds off quickly. Will indicate if the fuel pump has been the culprit or not.

Injectors are low impedance, have a resistor pack. Don't know if you can use high impedance injectors with the OEM CFI system.

Rear brake master cylinder - linked to the right front brake. Have to bleed front right caliper first, then the rear brake caliber. Did you disconnect the rear brake line at the rear caliper? Will prove if the line is clear. Next I'd remove the rear caliper bleed screw completely to verify it is clear and the fluid flows. The rear caliper pistons could also be seized.

Good Luck.

You were right about the rear caliper being stuck. Even though it was rolling enough to get it on the lift, it was still stuck / seized. It was a job to get it off the rear rotor. I connected it to the front master and after bleeding was able to get both of the pistons out. I removed the seals and cleaned the grooves really well and installed the new seals and pistons. I found that the pin that is supposed to be floating was rusted solid and bound up. I was able to give it a soaking in PB Blaster and after some gentle persuasion, got it out. Cleaned all the rust off the pin, installed the new dust seals. I discovered that I had ordered all the rebuild kits awhile back, but had neglected to order new pads....Grrrrr! New pads are ordered and supposed to be here Tuesday. I'll rebuild the front calipers tomorrow where they'll be ready when the new pads arrive.
One thing that gripes me is the lack of common maintenance by people that chose to ride a bike until it just won't go any more. When I took off the saddlebags, there is literally 1/4" of oily greasy grime all over everything. When I get the brakes finished and off the lift, I gotta power wash this poor baby before the bags go back on.

I spent the day working on the front brakes. I have rebuilt my share of Honda disc brakes over the years including my GL1100. But for the life of me I have never seen calipers in this shape before. Someone had beat the living crap out of the pins so bad that they were flared, but look at the pictures. I have never seen one where the holes were wallowed out like this. The first one looked like someone had taken a die grinder to the casting. The one on the right side was not as bad, but needless to say it was compromised and I didn't feel that it was safe to use again. Needless to say I bought another set of right and left calipers off ebay. I'll rebuild those once they arrive. Should have them by Friday.