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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After a long winter I decided to get the 85 around incase of some decent weather.
Installed the battery and charged it.
Turned over but would not start, had spark put my hand on the pump didn't seem to be anything from it.
Can I check the pump by just jumping 12 volts?
Or is it better to jump the relay?

Side note when I went back to pull the pump noticed dampness under the water pump ARRRRRRRRRGH! :?
Have one coming from Cyclemax
 

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First I would try tapping the pump body with a screwdriver handle. It might just be stuck after the winter lay up.
 

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cycle your stop switch on the handlebar a couple times,you might also check to see if the fuel petcock is turned on too
 

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put my hand on the pump didn't seem to be anything from it.
Side note when I went back to pull the pump noticed dampness under the water pump ARRRRRRRRRGH! :?
Have one coming from Cyclemax
Remember the pump only operates when the engine is spinning. Remove the outlet hose fron the pump. Attach another hose to the pump and divert it into a container as if you were doing a volume test. At least you'll know if you have fuel.
The bowls may be dry, the floats may be stuck, and how old is your gas?
You may need to drain the bowls.
I would ignore the dampness under the water pump until you can drive it awhile. Seals shrink. It may just seal back up. Get the bike running first.
 

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After a long winter I decided to get the 85 around incase of some decent weather.
Installed the battery and charged it.
Turned over but would not start, had spark put my hand on the pump didn't seem to be anything from it.
Can I check the pump by just jumping 12 volts?
Or is it better to jump the relay?

Side note when I went back to pull the pump noticed dampness under the water pump ARRRRRRRRRGH! :?
Have one coming from Cyclemax

And was you bike parked in a cold garage ? sometimes you'll get a little leak in the cold weather but it'll be fine when it warms up, I've had 3 1200's and all 3 dripped coolant a little in the very cold weather.

I know this is dumb but make sure your kill switch is on run and I always leave mine for around 5 months without starting it and when I do go to start it I turn the petcock on for a good 15 mins before trying to turn it over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes I tried the tapping of the pump, and the fuel is on, jumped the pump with 12 volts and all I get is a spark?
Kill switch is off removed the plugs to let it turn over easier, while I watched to see if that was it, still nothing from the pump.
Rock Auto had Preludes pumps for less than 40 bucks, so one is on the way.
After all this went to try one more time, nothing won't turn over, light goes out checked the fuse ok, solenoid is out Craaaaaaaaaaaap
Should have stayed in bed
 

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Do not put the new water pump in right away, as said it might seal back up once running.
You say it turns over but doesn't fire up, correct?
Did you put and gas stabilizer in the tank at layup, what and how much,?
Did you run the gas out of the carbs fully, by turning off the petcock and running the motor out of gas, until it stalled at layup?
Have you opened the float bowl drain screws to see if there is gas in the carbs?
Pull the air cleaner and check for mice, if clear, put a shot of starter fluid into the air intake to see if it will fire off.
How old are your spark plugs? Are you using stock listed NGK plugs? I have seen when other plugs were put in a big problem of it not firing. They run best with stock NGK plugs.
Have you put new spark plug wires and caps on the bike since it is not a new bike?
 

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Now you say it doesn't spin over?
Have you pulled the plugs now to see if they are wet? Gas or antifreeze?
Just slow down bro. Answer the questions first before jumping.
 

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Does the battery have 12 volts with a multimeter at the battery?

What did you use for a battery charger and how long and what charge rate did you set at?
If you used a battery tender just before you tried it, and don't have an automotive type full charger, this may be your problem. Take the battery to Autozone or another auto parts store and have them charge it and load test it.
Battery tenders are to maintain a fully charged battery, not to charge one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes I did a charge with an full size battery charger, set a 2 amps, maybe took 30 minutes to show full charge. I shows 12.5 volts with the key off.
No my mistake I didn't run the gas out, at the end of the season. I did use about 2 oz of Seafoam at the last fill up idled the bike for about 15 minutes then put it away.
Pulled the plugs and they aren't wet, they were new last year and NGK's.
It quit turning over while I was trying to test the pump while it was spinning.
I'll try and slow down too. It was 40+ here today and I tried to be in to much of a hurry to ride.
No mice either, and I'll hold off about the pump till I get it running. Wasn't sure about using ether on a wing.
I should know better than just jumping a things, one thing at a time.
Tried again tonite, still won't turn over checked the fuse, it is OK nothing going through the solenoid. Head light turns off when I use the start button.
Really glad to see your doing well enough to post.
 

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Did you pull the plugs today and make sure there was not any gas or antifreeze in the cylinder causing hydrolock?
Once the plugs are out try cranking it over. Do not look in the holes, cover them with a rag as gas or antfreeze will shoot out if there is some in there(that will stop the motor from turning over if liquid is in the cylinders as it will not compress)
 

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Well does it spin over with the starter, plugs in and out? But no spark?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry to be so late. time to go to work this morning.
Yes it did spin over freely I did remove the plugs so I could watch and see if the pump was trying to work.
I didn't hold the start button for more than about 5 or so seconds. I went to the left side of the bike to check connections on the battery they were tight so I pushed the start button again, nothing. I checked the fuse on the solenoid it is ok. So I hooked up the meter to check for voltage going through the solenoid nothing there either. Tonite I'll check for fuel in the carbs, and the connections of the solenoid. It has been changed at some time before. I'll check the wiring diagram, to see which connections activate the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes I did find fuel in the drains on the back two carbs. So as was told I sat back and slowly went through things 1 at a time.
Fuel in carbs check
Went through the fuses again still all looked ok. Big mistake on my part the 10 amp ignition fuse looked ok, but when checked with a meter no continuity. Changed it out and presto it turns over. But Very Very slowly.
I put the charger back on and it showed 50% but it charged right up, HUH.
Wednesday after work I let it set again retry it. I'll give it more time, and see if that changes anything. If not it is off to the battery store and have them test it.
Could it be that having a weak battery is causing all this?
I read more than once about these don't like a weak battery.
But it is just over a year old.:?
 

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Could it be that having a weak battery is causing all this?
I read more than once about these don't like a weak battery.
But it is just over a year old.:?
Yes a cheap or abused battery can fail in a year or less and yes a weak/failing battery although it cranks the engine can see a drop in voltage such that it can't fire the ignition.
 

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Fuses have to be tested with a meter, visual does not work.
Batteries can get an internal short and seam to charge, only a load test will reveal that.
Yes these bikes need fully charged batteries especially in cool and cold weather as the oil thickening will make it turn over hard. Or you may need to pull the starter and clean it and fresh lube, the old lube could be gummy, and the dust buildup inside can weaken the amp level to turn it over.
 

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Regarding the no start after storage...draining all four carbs is the first thing you should do (ideally this is done before the storage period). The fuel in the bowls is small quantity, vented directly to atmosphere, and goes away much quicker than what's in your tank, causing hard or no start and increasing the chance you'll foul a plug. In anticipation of extended storage, I usually add the step of (fuel shut off and drains open) try to start until it won't fire. Come back a few minutes later and close the drains...now you've done a thorough job of draining the carbs for storage.

Regarding the fuel pump...if your carbs are full already it won't pump unless you pull the line feeding the carbs. And only then if the engine is spinning and producing spark or you jump it directly.

Probably the worst thing you can do for storage is shut your fuel off and allow to run out of gas. Your bowls won't completely drain and the the smaller amount you just left will be more prone to evaporating and leaving a layer of varnish. Keihin made those drain screws easy to get to...use 'em.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
After a long day of snow removal I didn't feel like going back to town to have the battery tested. I'll take it with me tomorrow. I did give a full charge tonight and it just barely turned over. So I expect now it may be the battery.
One thing at a time.
Set up the meter and when I push the start button it measures 4 volts.
Release the button and back to 12.
I will remember the advice for Properly storing the wing and to myself :lash:
 
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