Fork Spring Installation Aid
I was able to install the 2nd fork spring and everything is tight and holding.
I've attached a picture of the tool - not the prettiest but effective.
Material:
1- Caulking gun with the end cut off
1- 3/8" x 18" all thread and 3 nuts
1- 2"x 2" clamp on coupler (This should have been a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" instead)
2- 1-1/2" pvc coupler
While I had everything apart, I drill and tapped the fork caps to make fork oil change easier.
On the 1st install, I used the push rod that is part of the caulk gun. I removed the disk on the end which fits nicely into the tapped cap.
Clamp everything together tight. The caulk gun goes outside of the pvc so you don't scare the tube any.
Point the "top" of the gun away in case cap and spring slip.
Use 2nd PVC coupling to hold over cap and spring interface and help guide down straight.
"Caulk" away until cap is inside the tube. I did read about marking for thread line up and that's important here also.
Tighten cap slowly so not to jump threads and cross thread.
On the 2nd fork, I had to replace the push rod with all thread and crank it down. The force on the 1st one put too many nicks in the push rod and it wouldn't hold when under tension.
I make no claim this is the best way or safest, but it did work.
Thanks to all the previous posts and comments on the same task. It help me get my done with little problems.
I was able to install the 2nd fork spring and everything is tight and holding.
I've attached a picture of the tool - not the prettiest but effective.
Material:
1- Caulking gun with the end cut off
1- 3/8" x 18" all thread and 3 nuts
1- 2"x 2" clamp on coupler (This should have been a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" instead)
2- 1-1/2" pvc coupler
While I had everything apart, I drill and tapped the fork caps to make fork oil change easier.
On the 1st install, I used the push rod that is part of the caulk gun. I removed the disk on the end which fits nicely into the tapped cap.
Clamp everything together tight. The caulk gun goes outside of the pvc so you don't scare the tube any.
Point the "top" of the gun away in case cap and spring slip.
Use 2nd PVC coupling to hold over cap and spring interface and help guide down straight.
"Caulk" away until cap is inside the tube. I did read about marking for thread line up and that's important here also.
Tighten cap slowly so not to jump threads and cross thread.
On the 2nd fork, I had to replace the push rod with all thread and crank it down. The force on the 1st one put too many nicks in the push rod and it wouldn't hold when under tension.
I make no claim this is the best way or safest, but it did work.
Thanks to all the previous posts and comments on the same task. It help me get my done with little problems.
