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I've been riding my bike all summer, and it's been doing pretty good (although I suspect it's needing a carb balance and/or rebuild).

In the middle of the freeway, just preparing to change lanes (so just when I turned on my blinker) the bike acted as if I'd just hit a global kill switch and I lost all dashboard indicators and lights. Just like if I'd turned the key to the off position. (The clock is still reading A time, so some power is getting to that at least.)

I've got the bike at home now, but looking at the electrical schematic in the Haynes manual, it looks to me like the most likely cause is the ignition switch. (I have the Honda service manual, as well.)

I've checked the master fuse, and it's still intact, and the battery still has a full charge. Are there other things I should be looking for? Wiring harnesses that could disconnect that would create this symptom?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Early GL1200s were known for ignition switches going bad, so you are probably on the right track.
 

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Check the main fuse very carefully for cracks

The Ignition switch problems were 84 and early 85 models.
 

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Probably the dog-bone fuse, it may look fine but will probably disintegrate when you remove it. Otherwise is the battery dead? If so then I would say the bike is not charging and ran until the battery died.
 

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check for input and output voltage at the ignition switch connector (C80) located under the right side fork cover,bottom connector
 

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neoracer wrote:
check for input and output voltage at the ignition switch connector (C80) located under the right side fork cover,bottom connector
+1.

Then rock the key to see if any power comes through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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neoracer wrote:
check for input and output voltage at the ignition switch connector (C80) located under the right side fork cover,bottom connector
doing the connectivity checks through this connector (on the ignition key side) indicates that the switch is misbehaving. There's no connectivity to anything when the key is on ACC, and some connectivity is missing when the key is ON.

Specifically, when the key is ON there should be connectivity between all of these: BAT, Ignition, Accessories, FAN. It appears to me that BAT and FAN (I'll call "set1") have connectivity to each other, and that Ignition and acessories ("set2) have connectivity to each other, but set1 and set2 are isolated from each other.

This pictoral instruction is for a '84, but I'm going to hazard a guess that the ignition switch basics haven't really changed that much. I'm already taking the day off of work to get this fixed, so if it works then I'll save $65-$130 plus a couple of days of commuting on the bus.
http://gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=8815&hilit=ignition+switch

Thank everybody!
 

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That's the method I used to clean my switch this spring. Good luck!
 

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cehck your pm messages
 

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Everthingdead but the clock sounds exactly like the bike would act if the ignition was in the off position.

It can't be the main fuse if the clock is working.
 

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tricky wrote:
Check the main fuse very carefully for cracks



The Ignition switch problems were 84 and early 85 models.
The problem persists into the 2001-2005's - I have unsolved issue see my post.
 

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Now that the switch is working again, I'm leary to depend completely on it. Is there a source for connectors identical to the one on the end of the ignition switch harness so that I could build myself an "always on" bypass? (The idea being that if the ignition switch fails again, I just unplug the ignition switch and plug in my new plug and the bike is "ON" again.)
 

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tricky wrote:
there certainly is http://www.vintageconnections.com/#How%20to%20Order

but is it really worth it.

Although if you did it, you surely would have the only wing with a bypass :)
There was some wear on one of copper contacts that makes me think that I may experience this again.

Seeing as how 1/2 of my commute is in the express lanes of Seattle, and it cost me $300 to have the bike transported after "the event" (because it was in the express lanes and during rush hour), I'm thinking that having a small bypass in my emergency kit is worth it.

It looks like it should fit, however it only costs me $5 to find out.
 

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I had the same happen on my 84 Aspencade a couple of weeks ago. First I thought the ignition switch was faulty as it does look like the original, however when I got her home and stripped. her down the connector block for the ignition switch into the loom was all corroded inside. I cleaned that up and she's been fine since. I may still look to see if I can get the switch swapped out under the original recall though
 

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That is scary, and could easily be fatal in the right (or wrong) situation. I would simply remove the switch, and install a toggle switch somewhere to replace it with. But then I tend to do such things, my whole bike has been rigged in various ways, but none of it has ever failed. When I rig something, I almost always find a way simpler way to do it than the factory did. My turn signal switch failed, I removed everything, including all the self canceling crap and a ton of wires, and installed a simple on-off-on toggle switch, and wired it directly to the turn signals. Nothing to go wrong now.
 

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FYI toggle switches also fail...give it 26 years or so...
 

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Mine did that. I had a bad pulse coil. Those are the firing triggers located by the timing belts. One was intermittant, would shut the whole bike down for a few minutes. It would cool off, come back to life, and I could start it up and move down the road like nothing happened.
 

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wingsam41 wrote:
FYI toggle switches also fail...give it 26 years or so...
Not to worry, neither I nor the bike will last another 26 years.
 
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