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85 goldwing starter

945 Views 7 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  juglr
Hi I was going to rebuild my gw 1985 starter but the Haines manual states that the starter chain will fall into the engine. have rebuilt 83/84 starters but have concerns about having to drop the 85 engine to repair . Is the manual true or b.s.?

Thx gumby
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I think that's what is known as a "wive's tale".
Another reason to throw a haynes manual away.
your chain wont fall. I have heard the same of a 1100 and I just did my starter. worst you are going to get is a little fluid out of it and a little mess. that is all.
Here is a link to help you out. You're better off removing the exhaust stud closest to the starter but some say they wiggle out without doing it but mine wouldn't.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/starterrefresh.htm
I have the Clymer manual. It says on the 1985 model the starter drive chain is not captured within a guide as on the 86-87 models. It says if you remove the starter the drive gear and drive chain will swing away from the opening and you will not be able to retrieve them without removing the engine and the rear engine cover.

Has anyone ever had this happen? I need to repair my starter, and I would love to do it without removing the engine.
I have the Clymer manual. It says on the 1985 model the starter drive chain is not captured within a guide as on the 86-87 models. It says if you remove the starter the drive gear and drive chain will swing away from the opening and you will not be able to retrieve them without removing the engine and the rear engine cover.

Has anyone ever had this happen? I need to repair my starter, and I would love to do it without removing the engine.
I have the OEM Honda 84-87 GL1200 manual it tells me to pull the starter on 84-85 the first step is to pull the rear engine cover and when I looked at that the first step was to pull engine. :sadguy: but i realy don't know
I can now testify that you do not have to remove the engine to remove and replace the starter. I just did it on my 85 Interstate. The link posted by mclock was a lifesaver. You just have to remove the left side plastic (a few screws), the engine guard (four nuts), the exhaust on the left side (four nuts in the front and two clamping bolts in the back), and the gear shift lever (loosen one bolt). All of this was much easier than I expected. Then you can remove the starter (two bolts and the nut that holds the cable. Be sure to follow Tricky's instructions to hold the rear nut with a thin wrench while removing and replacing the cable so the bolt doesn't turn and break the wire inside the starter. You need a thin wrench to hold that rear nut. I didn't have a wrench thin enough, so I took a 10mm wrench to my bench grinder and ground it down until it was thin enough.

I also agree with mclock that the exhaust stud nearest the starter needs to be removed. Mine was already broken off by the PO, but the little nub that was left was in the way. I ended up taking an angle grinder to it. Ugly, I know, but effective.

Thanks to mclock for the good advice.
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