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I bought my 1985 Limited Edition Goldwing ten years ago and haven't ridden it for four years until this last month. Idrove it to the Honda dealer and One year later took it back home in the back of a pick-up truck. That really frustrated me. The problem was that she would sputter at around 2300-2500 rpms. Fortunately the shop did not charge me and they said it was the first time in twenty years a bike left the shop not fixed. I contacted Honda's head office and they said they could only recomment to take it back again which was useless in my opinion. The shop woul;d take it but start charging me. I couldn't let them go it to experiment at $40 an hour. I asked Honda would they guarantee to fix it and they said they would not get involved in a bike that is twenty years old. They said they would provde technical support which they had when my bike was there before. Anyway, last month I went to work on my bike again and this time the bike wouldn't start. I noticed the fuel pump was not kicking in for the four seconds when the key is turned on likeit suppose to. I took it off and got it going and after awhile it flowed according to spec. I also noticed that very little fuel flowed from the fuel tank to the pump even though th shutoff was opened. I put an air valve from an old tire tube on the end of the line and blew back through with an air compressor.It broke free and the gas began to flow. I hooked her up and she started. I readjusted the new throttle position sensor they put on andreadjusted the set screw on the fuel railon the right side of the bike and she almost perfect. Unfortuntely, she is sputtering again at the same rpms(2300-2500). I even put an auxillary gas can on the back running board to see if it could still be dirt inthe tank or residuefrom the cream kit they lined the tank with at the shop. It made no difference with the new tank. I'm using the bike but there is still this problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated because I don't see the point to bring it back to the shop.
 

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What's the idle speed, and how's the power, say at 50 to 80 MPH (what's that in KPM?) How does the throttle respond off idle?
 

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Get a can of Seafoam... I swear to god it works... I used it in my SE-i and 2 cans and 500 miles tlater blamo! Ran perfect and still does! I have a friend who told me "The best thing for these bike is to ride them" It's true especially the fuel injected limiteds and SE-i.....................................
 

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She idles at around 920-1040rpms. I adjusted that as well but it seems to make no difference. At higher speeds she is perfect!
 

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Welcome :waving: If you got a good gas flow from blowing back through the fuel cutoff, maybe you have rust in the tank. With the bike sitting for 4 years, rust may have formed. You may have some varnish build up too.

There has seen some past talk on cleaning out rust and if you do a search on the forum, you will find the answer.

I have used sea foam on my 85 Aspy and it helped tremendously.
 

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How many miles, and how was it stored, and then how was it resurrected. Any fuel stabilizers, etc. Sounds like you have the fuel flow fixed, or it wouldn't run good at higher speeds. I wish I could hear the sputter. 100 people would describe that sound different. Is it sputtering through the intake, or out the exhaust? Keep in mind, that 20 yr old machine, whether Lamborgine, Tote-Gote, or Gold Wing, may have the rubber parts rotting. I found the vacuum hoses on my LTD split, rotted, at the map sensors. Under Faux tank, at front, by coils. Check that out, and try the Sea Foam idea like dirtydog84 suggested. Again, let us know the mileage, and overall condition.
 

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Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated because I don't see the point to bring it back to the shop.
newfie biker, while you could have any number of problems I presume the bike shop looked at most of the common stuff like spark plugs, plug wires, air intake, TPS, ETC..

One place you might look is at the pulse air system (if it has one).. If you have a check valve leaking exhaust back into the intake it will really skew your fuel air mixture at certain RPM's.. At lower RPM's there isn't much exhaust back pressure so not much back pressure on the AIR system, & at higher RPM's you have a more open throttle plate so if a little exhaust gas was entering the intake it would be a small percent of the total intake mixture. (worth a look anyhow).

Do a leak down test on the cylinders, that RPM is about where the cylinder pressures are at their highest so any intake valve leakage could allow combustion gasses toenter the intake for theother cylinders..

Maybe look for equal valve lift on all the valves, a worn cam lobe can cause similar problems.

Other than an injector acting up, or a weak spark (that RPM range takes a real good spark) you could have almost anything.. If you can borrow an inferred heat gun you can try running it at the offending RPM range & seeing if you have a cooler exhaust pipe or cylinder than the others, then work from there..

Twisty
 

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The bike had only 12000 kms when I bought it 95 and now she just rolled overto 40000 kms so yes she was laid up for awhile. I have in the past tried combustion cleaner and it did clear it up for a time. However,when the shop took it they supposely cleaned her up from stem to stern including a cream kit for the gas tank and a new fuel filter. Also there is a little strainer at the beginning of the fuel pump that catches some rust particals but not much. But like you said she must be getting lots of fuel to work well at higher speeds. In regards to the sputter, it sounds like she gets choked of completely from the fuel and you really hear it through the exhaust. She seems to backfire as I coast along while releasing the fuel. ie: going down hill. Also, I tried adjusting the throttle position sensorin a variety ofsettingsuntil I found the best one, still it comes back.
 

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You're right, Twisty. It has the secondary air system, with 4 reed valves, and a vacuum operated main poppet valve. Those feed air into the exhaust system at negative exhaust pressure. The bores in the heads can get plugged with sludgy type carbon, and/or the carbon gunk can foul the reed valves. Not to mention rotten vacuum hoses.



Then there's the primary reeds. They're 2 to a body, under the plenum, also. There again, the reedscould befouled, or broke. That can cause "cross-talk", which is most undesireable. They allow the air from the idle speed control valve into the intakes, to control the idle speed when cold. This happens, only under negative conditions. Worth a look, especially on a high mileage bike. So, while one has the entire intake assy out (off the engine), pays to look at all the reeds, and hoses. And CHECK - the secondary vacuum diaphram!
 

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The secondary vacuum diaphram. Where is it located and how would I check that? What do I look for?
 

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Look forbad hoses, leaking diaphram. It's supposed to close on deceleration. There's 4 reed valves on that valve block. Look at them. They're behind 2 covers, having 3 screws. It is under the air chamber (plenum) Have to pull the whole assy., to get to it. Would be a good time to refresh all the hoses under there. Also, there's 2 little valve blocks under there, too. Take them apart, and look for "crap", or broken reeds. Those short hoses feeding those valves, are notorious for rotting. If you pull that air assy, what a perfect time to reseal the water crossover tubes. Your call. There's re-seal kits for those on Ebay, quite often. Otherwise, http://www.servicehonda.com/hard%20parts/hard_parts.htm The hose material should be able to be procured locally.
 
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