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Discussion Starter #101
Then I figured I'd address the fact that the neutral light was as bright as the headlight. First I tried a smaller, white LED. That made it dimmer but made it look blue. Then I tried green sharpie over the emitters of the green LED I had in there. Nope. Finally I used UV setting Epoxy to make a lens over the emitters, and lightly scuffed that lens to diffuse the light. Perfect!
Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
 

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I just read your thread with considerable interest since I'm gradually working out my own 1985 Interstate "barn find" although mine is pretty unmolested by PO's thankfully. That's a heckuva lot of detail work and commitment on your part! Thanks for the tip on the headlight bypass, think I'll use that.

I also noticed your X and XT and Blast in there... You must be a glutton for punishment brother! My X is a fantastic machine but in its first two years had every problem known to man. Wife and I used to stuff all three cases and head off to Timbuktu on it rain or shine anyway. Sadly it's in dry dock again with fueling issues at 110K...

Really digging my GL, hope you enjoy yours as well once it's sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Thanks! I have to say, the buells have honestly been some of the least problematic bikes I've owned. Heck, my youngest son got his permit and we went on a thousand mile, 4 day ride down the back of the dragon, him on the blast and me on an FJ1200. Other than a mid-trip emergency oil venting (It wasn't thrilled about being topped up with oil and at redline for hours) it ran perfectly, even after the inevitable whoops. The FJ on the other hand started leaking gas halfway through. There's something inherently correctly wrong in riding a sportbike with a harley engine and dirt bike suspension.

In order to run LED turn signals I had to either add resistors, totally defeating the purpose of low amp LEDs, or add an LED flasher. Obj I went for the flasher. Three wires, +, -, and load. Not enough wire to reach if I cut off the connector, plus with the fairing installed there's no room. Instead I took apart the OEM flasher unit. Epoxied the pins in place, soldered on new wires, two layers of heat shrink plus silastic. Then crimped on new spade connectors with shields, and bonded the mounting lug (and in fact the whole side of the relay) from the old relay to the new one. As usual, no wires cut, immediately reversible and I have spares from the parts bike. Already installed and tested working fine with the incandescent bulbs, LEDs arrive tomorrow.


OEM and LED relay by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
Old relay disassembled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
New relay with old connector and bracket by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #104 (Edited)
I feel the need to point out, I'm an awesome mechanic but none of what I'm doing is hard. Seriously. If you can turn a screwdriver the correct direction then you can do all of what I've done. The only thing that makes me special here is that I have a lot of tools, a really nice shop, and a very understanding wife. (edit; also kids smarter than me that help) I haven't really used any special tools, there's been a bare minimum of welding. It's just been lots of time and effort. Don't be afraid to jump into something like this!
 

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Discussion Starter #106
When I built my barn/garage I put it as far away from the house as I could and still have it be legal. For my wife to come out and bother me requires putting on clothes, shoes, etc. and normally it's easier to forget whatever she was going to yell at me about! Welding is great fun, as is machining. Self taught from books on both, so I'm probably crap but youtube has been a great help lately. Also, jump in! Buy a cheap welder and start sticking stuff together. Years ago I had an AC buzz box, which I still have, that was awful. However it taught me the basics, the hard way. Nowadays the Harbor Freight Vulcan welders are actually dang nice at a good price. My first lathe was a cheap harbor freight that I got secondhand on craigslist even cheaper, once again it taught me the basics the hard way. I made my wife and I matching wedding bands for our 20th anniversary on it.

Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
It's all good. I just went out and pulled off the clutch lever and perch, brought them upstairs and let them have an hour or so being sprayed by the parts washer. Mostly cleaned out the gross sight glass, and got rid of the rest of the nastiness in the reservoir. Probably tomorrow I'll bleed the clutch again and get rid of all the bad fluid I thought already did.
 

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I don't know what the &#x stuff is supposed to be but I sure don't like it.

Dennis,
when you see that stuff, they are using Cellphones or Tablets, and the Unicode stuff is just part of the Social Media emoticons....


but, that stuff is not interpreted with the forum's old emoticon coding, most of which is unique to this forum alone. I remember having requested a lot of the emoticons, and requesting special codes to make them go...


such as ROFL and rofl will both decode into :rofl: if you use the : before ROFL : and after


I have so many of those codes memorized, I don't even click on the emoticons, I can type them faster than taking my hands off the kybd.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
So today was mostly dedicated to cleaning a corner of the barn out to make room for a new tool, but I did a little bit of wingwalking. My rear turn signal LEDs came in so they were installed and the back end tucked back together. I ordered some rubber edging for the shelter which turned out to be exactly the wrong size so I peeled the OEM stuff off the parts bike and the spare piles and glued it on. Then I reinstalled the shelter and figured now was a good time to patch the holes in the stock speaker grilles and get them installed. No stereo or speakers for now, honestly I've never heard a song as pleasing as the sound of a properly running motorcycle so I'm in no hurry there.
LED rear turn signal bulbs by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
Speaker grilles with patches by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
Reassembled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Literally the last LEDs for the wing arrived so i installed them. As of now the only incandescent bulb on the wing is the low fuel light. I'll try to get an ammeter reading tomorrow to see how much current the LEDs pull. Pics show running lights, the turn signal is a much larger difference between stock and LED but really doesn't photograph well.
LED 1157 amber bulbs by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
Old bulb by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
OEM on the left, LED on the right by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
 

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Literally the last LEDs for the wing arrived so i installed them. As of now the only incandescent bulb on the wing is the low fuel light. I'll try to get an ammeter reading tomorrow to see how much current the LEDs pull. Pics show running lights, the turn signal is a much larger difference between stock and LED but really doesn't photograph well.
https://flic.kr/p/QUFYuM

Do NOT replace the Low Fuel light with an LED.


it simply will NOT work at all. The circuit requires the filament current of the bulb to work properly. The sender is a varistor that heats up, and the resistance value lowers as the fuel drops below the sensor. ( it has a Negative temperature coefficient )



The fuel is what keeps it cool, and the resistance value high enough the bulb won't light up.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
So I tried an LED there and my issue was that the circuit leaks enough current that the LED never went out. It'd start out bright then drop to a dimmer but still very noticeable brightness, which is why I took the dash apart again and reinstalled an incandescent in that location.
 

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So I tried an LED there and my issue was that the circuit leaks enough current that the LED never went out. It'd start out bright then drop to a dimmer but still very noticeable brightness, which is why I took the dash apart again and reinstalled an incandescent in that location.
There are NO circuit LEAKS, it is a series resistor with the filament of the bulb, pure and simple.... only two parts complete the circuit....
from +12 to lamp, to sensor, to Ground.

that is the full circuit..... the sensor at its' highest resistance allows more current thru than the LED needs to light up.

Game over, you can't use a LED for the Low Fuel Light without redesigning the whole darn thing, and to what purpose??? all the lamp does it glow when the fuel is low.
 

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Discussion Starter #119 (Edited)
Then I figured I'd stop putting it off and clean up the paint on the fairing a bit. Clay bar, rubbing compound, polishing compound, polish and glaze. First two pics show the side I did all that on, second two show the side I only clayed.

Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
 
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