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I just got the bike, new battery, only ridden twice, bike says 13v whle riding. what could be drawing power while sitting? It is hot and humid in Vegas now due to cloud cover. AndNO, key was turned to fork lock and not park (checked). Thanks for any help.
 

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I haven't had this problem with mine (because there is no bulb), but I hear the LTD is notorious for the trunk light staying on and killing the battery.

Might be something quick and simple to check. Other than that, just start hunting for juice :thumbsup:
 

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I would recommend taking the neg. battery cable off and putting a test light between the battery cable you just removed and the battery terminal.Make surethe ignition swithis in the"off" position.If it lights you have something drawing current when it is not supposed to. Start pulling fuses until the light goes out. When you pull a fuse and the light goes out you have found the offending circuit. Then run down the trouble on that circuit. If pulling all the fuses does not find the trouble it could be the voltage regulator. It is under the top cover.
 

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:smiler:As said above check the trunk light I keep mine on the off position for that very reason
 

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trunk light in off position.
 

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I removed my trunk light, along with almost everything else that made it an LTD (complete stereo system, trip computer, complete on board air compressor/self leveling system, and cruise control)Unfortunately the one thing I was unable to get rid of is the fuel injection, I am currently trying to rig repairs to it. Anyway, with the engine near 3,000 RPM, it should show close to 14 volts, mine has hit 14V a few times.

Check the plastic connector in front of the battery, where the 3 yellow stator wires connect, and also remove the fake tank and check for burned wires and connectors at the regulator. Because of it's design, and it's high power output, the LTD charging system is notorious for overheating.
 

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check the radio filter, its mounbted above the fuse block and connected to the regulator, mine was shorted and draining the battery overnight
 

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Bellboy40 wrote:
I would recommend taking the neg. battery cable off and putting a test light between the battery cable you just removed and the battery terminal.Make surethe ignition swithis in the"off" position.If it lights you have something drawing current when it is not supposed to. Start pulling fuses until the light goes out. When you pull a fuse and the light goes out you have found the offending circuit. Then run down the trouble on that circuit. If pulling all the fuses does not find the trouble it could be the voltage regulator. It is under the top cover.
I don't think a test light will work as there is a small parasitic drain on the battery from the radio and the Travel Computer. I just measured the drain on mine and it's 11.3ma measured across the disconnectednegative terminal and the mainground wire. I would suggest connecting a digital VOM like that, measure what you've got and go from there, pulling fuses, radio filter etc. if your reading is higher than mine...
 

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I disconnected the battery and attached a multimeter between the battery and neg cable.With the key off the reading started about 1.4v and continuosly decreased to about .75v. As i drove around town and out to Lake Mead the volt. was 13 on the gauge read out.
There are alot of bikes in Vegas this weekend anyone know whats going on? Mostly Harleys but alot of wings and other makes.
Thanks for all the ideas, much appreciated. I'll try as many ideas as i'm capable.
 

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saltmar14 wrote:
I disconnected the battery and attached a multimeter between the battery and neg cable.With the key off the reading started about 1.4v and continuosly decreased to about .75v.
That's the wrong setting on your multimeter. It should be set to amps not volts for a parasitic load test.
 

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Ken's right and I should have been a bit clearer.. Using a digital multimeter, set it to read milliamps, (ma). To get my reading I had the readout set to 00.00 DC and connected the negative lead to the ground cable and the positive lead to the negative battery terminal.



DO NOT TURN THE KEY ON OR ATTEMPT TO CRANK THE ENGINE WHILE THE METER IS HOOKED UP THIS WAY AS MAXIMUM SMOKE WILL ESCAPE FROM THE METER!!!!:shock::shock:



Once the smoke is lost from the meter, it's ruined!!:cool:



And... Not to cloud the subject but, the 13vdc you're getting while the engine is at speed, 2000-3000rpm, is low... Mine runs right at 14.1vdc at speed. Either you have a burn't stator or regulator connector or possiblya bad regulator. But we'll cover that when we find your excessive amperage drain..



Hmmm... I wonder if one leg of the bridge rectifier in the regulator could be shorted out causing this......:shock:Oh well.. Check the fuses first and then we'll see....:coollep:
 

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roscoepc wrote:
DO NOT TURN THE KEY ON OR ATTEMPT TO CRANK THE ENGINE WHILE THE METER IS HOOKED UP THIS WAY AS MAXIMUM SMOKE WILL ESCAPE FROM THE METER!!!!:shock::shock:



Once the smoke is lost from the meter, it's ruined!!:cool:
I think you meant the MAGIC SMOKE:ROFL: and most metres have fuses for the amp functions and even those that don't will only loose that function and all else should still work.
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
roscoepc wrote:
DO NOT TURN THE KEY ON OR ATTEMPT TO CRANK THE ENGINE WHILE THE METER IS HOOKED UP THIS WAY AS MAXIMUM SMOKE WILL ESCAPE FROM THE METER!!!!:shock::shock:



Once the smoke is lost from the meter, it's ruined!!:cool:
I think you meant the MAGIC SMOKE:ROFL: and most metres have fuses for the amp functions and even those that don't will only loose that function and all else should still work.
I know about most meters being fused and all but you have to allway'sremember Murphy's Law!!:blackstuff:
 

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roscoepc wrote:
I know about most meters being fused and all but you have to allway'sremember Murphy's Law!!:blackstuff:
Yep, good old Mr. Murphy. He's bitten me where the sun don't shine a few times.:shock:
 

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roscoepc wrote:
Bellboy40 wrote:
I would recommend taking the neg. battery cable off and putting a test light between the battery cable you just removed and the battery terminal.Make surethe ignition swithis in the"off" position.If it lights you have something drawing current when it is not supposed to. Start pulling fuses until the light goes out. When you pull a fuse and the light goes out you have found the offending circuit. Then run down the trouble on that circuit. If pulling all the fuses does not find the trouble it could be the voltage regulator. It is under the top cover.
I don't think a test light will work as there is a small parasitic drain on the battery from the radio and the Travel Computer. I just measured the drain on mine and it's 11.3ma measured across the disconnectednegative terminal and the mainground wire. I would suggest connecting a digital VOM like that, measure what you've got and go from there, pulling fuses, radio filter etc. if your reading is higher than mine...
Roscoe-a test lamp works perfectly for this with no danger of damaging the fuse on oryour meter itself. A parasitic draw or one likely notresponsible for killing the battery will only light the test lamp dimly as a chandelier bilb on low dimmer setting in your house.

Step one-before disconnecting any thing charge battery.

Next probe between pos and neg battery terminals. That's what full bright looks like. Next remove battery neg. cable and hook testlight in series. If light illuminates with the same intensity you have a draw that's not acceptable.

Next pull fuses/relays/and finally disconnect unfused components such as start solenoid output until light goes out or gets extremely dim-there's your problem.
 
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