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I have a friend who has been riding goldwings for years, he informed me i should get rid of the tube tires and get new tubeless tires as he says there safer in a blow out. Any comments on the difference? Any views on the safest tire?
 

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Junior Grue
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saltmar14 wrote:
I have a friend who has been riding goldwings for years, he informed me i should get rid of the tube tires and get new tubeless tires as he says there safer in a blow out. Any comments on the difference? Any views on the safest tire?
Your rims were designed for tubeless tyres, why on Dogs grey earth are you using tube type tyres?:shock:
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
saltmar14 wrote:
I have a friend who has been riding goldwings for years, he informed me i should get rid of the tube tires and get new tubeless tires as he says there safer in a blow out. Any comments on the difference? Any views on the safest tire?
Your rims were designed for tubeless tyres, why on Dogs grey earth are you using tube type tyres?:shock:
C'mon Ken, the guy's a new member and this might be his first Goldwing!! He might not have known....



In a blow out there really is no safe tire I don't think.. That said, I run the Dunlop Elite-3's. So far it's the best handling tire I've tried, has deap tread, and I like the wear so far.. Some are bothered about the tire's being noisy when leaning into a turn but I don't even notice it with the stereo cranked!!!:cool:
 

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Bike was given to me. been riding less than two weeks, still learning. Got caught in first down pour today real experience when stopping at signals with wet oily streets. my car burned up on fwy few weeks ago so my only transportation.
 

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saltmar14 wrote:
Bike was given to me. been riding less than two weeks, still learning. Got caught in first down pour today real experience when stopping at signals with wet oily streets. my car burned up on fwy few weeks ago so my only transportation.
I hate it when I'm right.....:cool:Since this your only means of transportation, check with the PO as to when the timing belts were done and if the Stator and regulator plugs have been removed and hardwired/soldered. That should help "bulletproof" the charging system.Also If you still have the original 30amp main and sub-main dogbone fuses, that might be a problem area also for ya...



Let us know what else you need!!
 

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in previous topic ive been discussing battery going dead over night and the fact that the bike shows between 11.5-13.5v. As soon as i have a day i'll try to figure out where all these things are and how to safetly open the bike up so i can try these pointers. Previous owner has not been available for questions lately due to health. he did replace the stator not long ago.there are just a little over 37,000 miles on the bike. not sure if air shocks working properly, I here the pump go on but don't notice a difference. took first ride on fwy thur. disapoined as i expected a smoother ride. don't know if normal, tires, or shocks.
 

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Ahh... I remember that thread.. I take it you still haven't found the problem? If not, I'll reread the thread and see if I can make some suggestions for you.. The ride is most likely due to the tires and the suspension not aired up properly like you said.. If the compressor runs and you don't see any pressure increase on the digital display, the foam intake filterhas most likely degraded and the particles from it have plugged the reed valves on the compressor head.... Let me know if you need the fix for that as I've done it to mine!!
 

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I like the Avon Venom tires. I used them on my previous 85 LTD for years and just put them on my "new" 1500SE. I have been getting around 15,000 miles out of them, good traction and wear patterns.
 

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saltmar14 wrote:
in previous topic ive been discussing battery going dead over night and the fact that the bike shows between 11.5-13.5v. As soon as i have a day i'll try to figure out where all these things are and how to safetly open the bike up so i can try these pointers. Previous owner has not been available for questions lately due to health. he did replace the stator not long ago.there are just a little over 37,000 miles on the bike. not sure if air shocks working properly, I here the pump go on but don't notice a difference. took first ride on fwy thur. disapoined as i expected a smoother ride. don't know if normal, tires, or shocks.
Do to the fact this is a new bike to you there are a few easy things you can check.



I would start with tire PSI first. If they are low it is not going to ride right.

The LTD and the SEI air pumps will come on for a sec. when you turn the key on.

Do you have a Owners hand book?? This would be the hand book that is on the bike.

It will show you how to operate the shock PSI front and rear. Have you tried to adjust the PSI for the shocks yet??



Kurt
 

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I had an 84I and put Avon Venon tires on it - rode great.
 

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Saltmar: I have the exact bike. It too is not a smooth rider, but as I do things to it, it's getting better, specially in the handling department.

Might be time to check the oil in the front forks. Theres no easy way to do this except pull the forks and do it! Dump the old oil and add a stiffer 15w or even a 20w fork oil in there, that will stiffen up you front forks and dampen the rougher roads better. If it were me, for the extra $30 while I got the forks off, I would go ahead and do the seals and wipers also, if you don't know the maintenance history.

Honestly, tires are going to be a personal choice. If your the type thats going to jump on a bike and go across country, get the EIII's, no question. But if this is a temporary means of transportation, for the local area, then I would recommend Shinko tire. I put one on the back of mine and it rides awesome. They didn't have the front matching tire, so after a month, I ordered the next closest match for the front which was the EII. Cheap tires that probably wont go 15000 miles, but they'll probably go 13000, and for the $150 savings...... Im ok with that.

I also installed Dyna beads in the front tire....... Not to happy with them yet. I like them at high speeds, very smooth, but in low speeds, like up to 35 MPH it bounces pretty bad. I thought the beads would disperse through out the tire at lower speeds than that. Im also wondering if 2 ounces was too much if the tire isn't that unbalanced to begin with? Dunno...... But I'll give them more time before I install them in the back tire.

Also, check your rotors for run out, brakes, etc,,,,

Do you have the digital display on the right hand side for your air pressure? You should be able to sit on the bike, hit the auto button and they will come up to pressure, based on the weight thats on the machine at the time. Do that and give it an hour, then do a pressure check and see how much you have lost, that will tell you to some degree were you need to start looking.
 

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I have been using the auto leveling the last couple of days, it gives a reading, then i here the pump motor for a few secounds. but havent noticed a difference. Bumps seem hard either way

Will check to see what tires are even available in my area. We have a motor cycle tire center in town but they quoted me 600 for new tires installed before i even got the bike, but their repairs are cheaper than the honda stores in my area,one shop won't even touch older bikes.
 

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I paid in the range of $72 for each tire, with free delivery. I had to remove the wheels and take to get the tire installed, another $30 each. Avons that others have mentioned were going to be my second choice.

While riding, check to see what air is in the front and back. There is a button that you push to just check. See if it's maintaining the original pressure you started off with. If it doesn't, then a rebuild may be in order.
 

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Gone14s wrote:

The LTD and the SEI air pumps will come on for a sec. when you turn the key on.
That's the fuel pump coming on and pressurising the fuel system, not the air compressor,,,
 

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I usually auto level while riding so the fuel pump should already be active, it sounds like a compressor.
 

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roscoepc,timing belt changed about 12,000 miles ago.
 

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The tire says tube but is installed as tubless, honda mech. sayes its ok not to worry. I will save thread a while till i can afford better. Thanks for all the suggestions, you guys are great. Auto levelling seems to be working ok Mark
 

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michlin commanders...i love em...guy on ebay says he got a bunch more in...from where i dont know
 

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Pretty much everybody seems to prefer the E-3s, but if it is local transportation, anything of the right size will do,, even Cheng Shin, if they come in the right sizes. I have over 8,000 miles on a set of Cheng Shin tires on my dual sport bike, with lots of off road use, and figure there is at least 2-3 thousand miles left in them. I recommend balancing them with weights. While I can remove and replace a tire in 15-20 minutes, I often spend over an hour balancing them, and it pays off. Perfectly smooth ride.

I have an LTD, and it rides ok, but the handling is terrible. It wallows bad. the entire on board compresor system was junk, everything was rotted and corroded. I removed the whole system. The rear shocks are also bad, and will not hold air. I aired them up with a portable compressor, and the air was gone in less than an hour. Rather than spend a fortune on new air shocks, I'm going with the $220 per set Progressive non air shock. I am expecting a major improvement in handling. With my weight, I will keep the preload set on max. I also have my tires, Metzler 880s, inflated to the max pressure.
 

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JerryH wrote:
Pretty much everybody seems to prefer the E-3s, but if it is local transportation, anything of the right size will do,, even Cheng Shin, if they come in the right sizes.
You need to watch your load rating, some of those cheaper tires have a lighter load rating. Over loading a tire can cause tire failure, usually about the time you get them good and hot and going down the road at 70mph or more.
 
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