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In the past i was having proublems with battery going dead,all solved with soldering the stator wires together. All was fine for a couple months, now if i charge over night starts just fine, when riding volt meter shows 12.3-13.3, but when i get ot location turn off then try to restart acts if battery dead, clock flashing. today jumped started whent about 1/4 mile home left running checked with meter showed 12.87 volts reving engine goes to 14 plus. after few minutes showing 12.65. last week bike sat for 4 days started no proublem.

Help.
 

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Did you check the regulator and grounds?
 

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If your battery is old have it load tested for free at any auto. parts shop .
A " shorting " battery will show 12V. and run lights etc. but as soon as a heavy load is introduced , like trying to start the motor , the battery will fall to 0V. Can be a real head scratcher when testing etc.
 

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Ditto what machinehead said batteries must be load tested to verify good or bad.
Additionally did you solder the connector near the battery only or also up by the regulator? If your battery goes dead and you jump start it only a very long ride charging continuosly over 14V will be able to adequately charge the battery. At idle and driving around town the stator barely makes enough power to keep up with the bikes electric usage so it won't charge the battery much.
A battery drain can be found easily with a 12v test light from any auto parts store. Disconnect the neg. battery terminal and hook the testlight in series between the battery negative post and the disconnected negative cable.
I'd fully charge the battery and have it tested at auto parts store (pick up test light). Re-install in bike (+) cable only then perform draw test with testlight. If none present and battery tests good, hook up (-) cable andon to charging system inspection/tests.
 

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Battery only 2-3 months old,charged over night went 1/4 mile parked 1 1/2 hour went out no start. jumped road 1/4 mile home turned off stated twice @ 1/2 hour apart 3rd acted like battery dead. after 5 hour battery says 12.53 volts, no start.

Cut all 3 yellow wires from connecters(by regulater and by battery), soldered them together. replaced reg/rec at same timeabout month or so ago.

Will take battery in for test.
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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If you don't mind my asking, what brand regulator did you use??
 

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I got the referal from this site. here is the linkhttp://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1985-Honda-GL1200-GL-1200LTD-Limited-Edition-Regulator-Rectifier
 

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It turns out it did come from you. They had otions, I stayed with the oem approved by Honda.

I do thank you for all your help and advice. My proublem is I'm a photographer and a lionel train hobbiest not a mechanic so I'm learning but do not always understand.
 

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i put tricle charger on it earlier, it went from charge to storage, tried to start still acts like a dead battery. I put meter on after disconect said 13.2v, checked a couple minutes later 12.53v. If Battery tests ok what next?
 

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How about the main fuse, is it still the dogbone stock fuse? I have read they can develope a hairline crack.
Have you cleaned your grounds? Also might be a dirty starter. You can clean them out or take it to an auto electric repair shop. Used to be one down on Industrial in Vegas. They aren't hard to clean. There are tutorials on doing it. I'll be stopping back through there in a month to visit my son on my way back from NH. Let me know if you don't get it fixed and I'll do it for you.
 

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saltmar14 wrote:
i put tricle charger on it earlier, it went from charge to storage, tried to start still acts like a dead battery. I put meter on after disconect said 13.2v, checked a couple minutes later 12.53v. If Battery tests ok what next?
That v drop after removal from charger may be normal. Batteries will typically show a higher voltage immediately after charging. This higher "surface charge" will disspate quickly after a light or similar load is turned on or on it's own after a few minutes.

Newday brings up a good point. Even if the yellow wires stator and regulator itselfare good, the output of regulator may stillnot be able to reach battery due to faulty connections near solenoid-or elsewhere for that matter. Either the main fuse or the 4 wire connector that hooks to the solenoid are suspect. Additionally the red wires exiting the regulator may also overheat in the regulator connector just like the yellows do.

You need to re-check and post results of voltage checks using both the bikes voltmeter and a handheld voltmeter at the battery. See if you get different results.

Also we need to know what the voltage is during the actual crank process have a helper crank the bike.

I'm guessing you may have a bad battery or a draw when bike is off.

When I first got my bike I put in a "new" battery from Honda. Lord knows how long that thing sat on a shelf. I should have paid attention to the fact that the first start bike actually started more sluggish than with my "old". Anyway my smptoms were very similar to what you are experiencing.

I'd get it load tested and do the draw test with testlamp.

Either way checking, replacing dogbone and other wiring is just as important as the repair on the stator wires for good charging.
 
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