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There have been many discussions related to the gl 1200 stator proublems, many indicate that the wire proublems,(melted connectors, overheated reg-rec, ect.)are caused by the high power output of the stator. There are articles of poorboy conversions. Not being a mech. or electricion my question is why do they have proublem powering extra accesories if the stator is so powerfull? I was told it is the amps. i saw a limted like mine the other day and it was covered with running and fog lights and he says he has never had any proublems.



My question is how many amps does the stator put out? The PO put a pioneer power amp and bose speakers on the bike but they are disconnected as he says the amp drue to much power. He says he thinks he can make it work when his health improves but amp takes up half of my left saddle bag. I thought of re-installing original amp but he says part of system is gutted. Want to know my power options. Thanks
 

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saltmar14 wrote:
i saw a limted like mine the other day and it was covered with running and fog lights and he says he has never had any proublems.
The problems arise in slow moving traffic. Otherwise you can ride all day on the open road with as many light as you can fit.
 

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Last time I measured with an inductive ammeter, each of the three yellow wires was carrying about 22 amps and I believe that was above idle but can't remember for sure. The problem with the connectors in my opinion isn't just where one connector blade joins to the other half of the connector, but also where the connector blade attaches or crimps to the wire itself. Have a look at a connetor that hasn't yet melted. Chances are the wire still has a baked appearance where the connector blade crimps to it. Once the crimp point develops resistance from age/corrosion it becomes a heat generator and the end result is inevitable.
 

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I have an LTD, before I Soldered "ALL" my connections together, it wouldn't run my fog lights (55W) for more than a few minutes with nothing else running.

My voltage meter on the dash had never read more than 13.6 on it's best day with nothing running.

I cut out and soldered the wires from the first connector next to the battery because I could see some discoloration in the connector. Immediately, My volt meter on the dash went to 14.1 at higher RPM's, 13.9 to 14 volts at lower RPMs (idle). However, the higher amperage running through the soldered connection, now put the load on the next connection, and 400 miles later, it burned out. So I soldered them all together now which at some point over the winter I will run new wires to eliminate a soldered connection.

But with all the wires soldered, I can now run my fog lights all the time if I want to. Running with everything on, fog lights, radio, GPS, MP3 and battery charger for my cameras, I can run at 13.3 volts consistently till I come to a stop (low RPM's) or hit the brakes. As soon as I hit the brakes it will drop to 12.6 and drop from there the longer I have them on. As soon as I let off the brakes and rev, right back to 13.3. Obviously with a drop in Voltage when the brakes are applied, the lights also dim quite a bit.
 

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I cut out the connectoers and soldered the yellow wires.
 

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The stator is going to put out about the same amount of watts (volts x amps) no mater what you have wired to the bike. RPM's will make a difference in how many watts the stator is putting out, 360 watts at 5000 rpm according to the manual. I think the LTD and SEi put out a little more watts than that. Removing the plug (or plugs) from the three yellow wires make the system more efficient but it still wont supply any more then it can.

What you have to do is start figuring up how many watts everything takes. I believe that the way the bike, say an Aspy, comes from factory loaded up probably uses around 250 watts. You have about 100 watts to play with. Once you have used up all the watts that the stator can supply the battery has to be used to maintain the watts. This is when you start using your battery reserve and run down your battery.

The only way to get more usable watts (that wont run your battery down) is to get a "stator" that putts out more watts. By going the poor boy you end up with an alternator that puts out more watts than the stator (probably around 500 watts depending on the alternator). The other thing is, the alternator does the regulation so you don't have anything on the bike that has to shunt any extra wattage. You will still run the battery down if you use more watts than the alternator can put out, but you are not likely to do so with the extra watts.

The reason you want to keep an eye on your voltage is to know when your starting t use your battery as the reserve. If the stator stops working, or you are using more watts than the stator is putting out, your voltage will start to drop. It's and indication that you may have some type of a problem.
 

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saltmar14 wrote:
My question is how many amps does the stator put out?




The Ltd Ed/SEi stator output is 500watts. Using Ohm's Law, devide the 500watts by say, 14vdc and you get a total of 35.7amps....



A question... How many amp's is the fuse for the amp you're wanting to use rated for?? Since the stock amp is not in use there's bound to be some extra wattage available...
 

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my sei and aspy both use approx 14.5 amps,w/o drivings lights on,but then again i use 100% led lights plus extra marker lights so would think that with stock lights the figure would probably be somewhere in the 20amp range with stock bulbs,which is somewhere in the 280-300 watt range with brakelights on
 

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Thanks for all he help. I will get me an ammeter soon and learn to use it.I googled the stereo amp to get spects but no luck, will proubly purchase new one and start from scratch.
 

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jobe05,
using the stock voltmeter on the LTD is marginal at best,have several that read less than battery voltage at times,only real test is to check the voltage at battery,you might want to check and clean connectors C1,2 an 3 off the fusbebox
 

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neoracer wrote:
jobe05,
using the stock voltmeter on the LTD is marginal at best,have several that read less than battery voltage at times,only real test is to check the voltage at battery,you might want to check and clean connectors C1,2 an 3 off the fusbebox
I know the dash meter isn't the best, but it is what I look at most, and it has been very consistent for me. Since I am not having any issues, I don't meter anything very often with a volt meter, but when I have, It reads what the dash meter has read, so for now, I don't mind quoting those numbers as long as I know they are accurate.

I have soldered all my connections on the yellow wire(s) path and yes, I have checked the other visible connections. The only one now I track is the wires on the solenoid.
 
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