You could really do with a multi meter so that your readings are more accurate. Battery voltage should be 12.5 volts at rest. With the bike running and a faulty charge circuit battery voltage will be less.
85 ltd died on road
my proublem i had before,http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/402457-85-ltd-wont-always-idle.html, was fixed by upping the idle to 1100 rpm. it worked for awhile but fri. i went to start it up after riding off and on doing errands and it wouldn't start, on big slope so tried to start by coasting down hill and putting in 2nd,no go, got a jump but died every time i took jumpers off. i couldn't here fuel pump when turned on and thought i saw the computer code lamps flash on then then off.finally started and headed home with wife following in toe in car. almost home and wife headed off when bike died, everything went dark except fuel light, fuel light had come on before engine died. could not restart by jumping so used gwrra towing and got it home.
i put the battery tender on and next mourning fired up like normal, i let it run for awhile no proublem. volts at idle on gauge showed 10.5v, rev got it to 14v. i started it up again later, volts showed 8-9v put meter on it showed 12-14v reved but soon started to act up with idle at 7-8rpms then it died and wouldn't even crank.
i have the battery at battery shop being tested as i thought that even though it shows 12v it might be shot under load and not taking charge from regulator so bike died as there wasen't enough to power every thing. can't test stator as it isn't running.
could it be stator? fuel pump? injector system? short? or battery? any other ideas? thanks!
i put the battery tender on and next mourning fired up like normal, i let it run for awhile no proublem. volts at idle on gauge showed 10.5v, rev got it to 14v. i started it up again later, volts showed 8-9v put meter on it showed 12-14v reved but soon started to act up with idle at 7-8rpms then it died and wouldn't even crank.
i have the battery at battery shop being tested as i thought that even though it shows 12v it might be shot under load and not taking charge from regulator so bike died as there wasen't enough to power every thing. can't test stator as it isn't running.
could it be stator? fuel pump? injector system? short? or battery? any other ideas? thanks!
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My gut feeling is...battery or wiring or something down those lines. If the battery is good in the first place, the battery should not be showing 8 to 9 volts. HOWEVER if the battery if with a meter is showing 12 to 14 and a built in meter is showing 8 to 9 volts....I guess this is what your meaning. Then I would say you may have wiring issues...a ground thats not up to the job...or some such thing.my proublem i had before,http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/402457-85-ltd-wont-always-idle.html, was fixed by upping the idle to 1100 rpm. it worked for awhile but fri. i went to start it up after riding off and on doing errands and it wouldn't start, on big slope so tried to start by coasting down hill and putting in 2nd,no go, got a jump but died every time i took jumpers off. i couldn't here fuel pump when turned on and thought i saw the computer code lamps flash on then then off.finally started and headed home with wife following in toe in car. almost home and wife headed off when bike died, everything went dark except fuel light, fuel light had come on before engine died. could not restart by jumping so used gwrra towing and got it home.
i put the battery tender on and next mourning fired up like normal, i let it run for awhile no proublem. volts at idle on gauge showed 10.5v, rev got it to 14v. i started it up again later, volts showed 8-9v put meter on it showed 12-14v reved but soon started to act up with idle at 7-8rpms then it died and wouldn't even crank.
i have the battery at battery shop being tested as i thought that even though it shows 12v it might be shot under load and not taking charge from regulator so bike died as there wasen't enough to power every thing. can't test stator as it isn't running.
could it be stator? fuel pump? injector system? short? or battery? any other ideas? thanks!
QUESTION...is the head light dim or brown....like a under voltage condition when its running...?
Last summer I stopped for a guy that had his harley crap out on the side of the road just after he brought it out of the shop...where he had some wiring work done to fix some other problem. And right there on the side of the road...it...the harley that is put on a impressive smoke show as it smoked all the wiring down. Tow truck time...!
I had the 86 version of the same bike. The stator can go bad sporadically. Mine would charge well sometimes and then not other times. Replaced it, big job. But if the volts go up with the rpms, the stator is doing something. The battery can do it to you also if it shorts out across the plates. There is a main fuse on the left side behind the battery. Sometimes they get fractured and cause sporadic electrical issues. Another link is the rectifier. I had this bike for 13 years and 70,000 miles. I lost 3 rectifiers, one within 3,500 miles of installation. Don't buy a cheap one from South America.
It sure sounds like a bad battery. I would also check for a bad main 30 amp fuse and the connections at the battery and starter solenoid. If the battery test shows it to be good then the next step is to make the stator tests.
Saltie, as was said, first make sure you've got a good battery because that bike should crank and run more than just 2 times even if the system is not charging... Once you're sure you've got a good battery we'll start by checking the stator and going from there. Personaly, I think the regulator has turned to crap on you but, we'll see...
3500 miles?? Oldwing99 I think I've got you beat as I installed an Electrix brand in mine and it lasted about 25 miles before it went Kaput....:grin:
3500 miles?? Oldwing99 I think I've got you beat as I installed an Electrix brand in mine and it lasted about 25 miles before it went Kaput....:grin:
Roscoepc, yes, the joy of electronic components. Just put a new stator in a snowmobile, 15 miles of good running, and 7 miles of 10 mph tops limping in back to the trailer. I'd much prefer it if it would just flat out fail.
new battery other bad, will install tomorrow and start checks. new grandson today so a little busy.
WHAT??? :shock:
You put your grandson before your bike??? :lash:
What is going on with you kids' morals today... just crazy! !! :?
:ROFL:
Congrats! :claps:
You put your grandson before your bike??? :lash:
What is going on with you kids' morals today... just crazy! !! :?
:ROFL:
Congrats! :claps:
It's not the child's fault. Grandpa has his priorities mixed up.WHAT??? :shock:
You put your grandson before your bike??? :lash:
What is going on with you kids' morals today... just crazy! !! :?
:ROFL:
Congrats! :claps:
i know guys i should have put bike first! how else am i going to get them home? i just can't decide if i should tie the car seat to the trunk rack or hook up the trailer.
back to the bike, i installed the new battery started right up, idle 1200rpm for a couple minutes rpm dropped to 800 then 700 and died. when i rev engine voltage no change, bike meter shows 10.5 till about 5,000rpm them went to 11.5.
stator or reg/rec? or other?
back to the bike, i installed the new battery started right up, idle 1200rpm for a couple minutes rpm dropped to 800 then 700 and died. when i rev engine voltage no change, bike meter shows 10.5 till about 5,000rpm them went to 11.5.
stator or reg/rec? or other?
Have you done anything with the regulator and stator connectors yet as far as removing/hardwireing them? I'm wondering just why the bike is dying after just a few minutes of running.... Oh Well.. we'll deal with that in a minute...
Here's the stator test you need to do and we'll go from there:
Stator Test
1- First, put the bike on the centerstand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.
NOTE: When using an analog type meter to check for shorts or open circuit's have the meter set to R x 1 scale. A "short" circuit condition, (a continuos electrical path to ground), is indicated by the meter needle sweeping across the meter guage face to 0 ohms resistance. An "open" circuit condition, (no electrical path to ground) is indicated by no movement of the meter needle, infinite resistance. Using a digital meter the reading should be: for a short - 0 ohms, and for an open condition - infinite resistance which normaly there will be no change in the meter reading..
2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for short's. If no short's are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.
3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohm's. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.
4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wire's separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warm's up.
IMPORTANT!!!
You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!
With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.
Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.
Finaly check leg C to A. Note the voltage.
Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70vac plus or minus about 5vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator.
Let us know what you find....
Here's the stator test you need to do and we'll go from there:
Stator Test
1- First, put the bike on the centerstand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.
NOTE: When using an analog type meter to check for shorts or open circuit's have the meter set to R x 1 scale. A "short" circuit condition, (a continuos electrical path to ground), is indicated by the meter needle sweeping across the meter guage face to 0 ohms resistance. An "open" circuit condition, (no electrical path to ground) is indicated by no movement of the meter needle, infinite resistance. Using a digital meter the reading should be: for a short - 0 ohms, and for an open condition - infinite resistance which normaly there will be no change in the meter reading..
2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for short's. If no short's are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.
3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohm's. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.
4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wire's separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warm's up.
IMPORTANT!!!
You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!
With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.
Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.
Finaly check leg C to A. Note the voltage.
Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70vac plus or minus about 5vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator.
Let us know what you find....
roscoepc; the stator was replaced by po, i replaced reg/rec when i cut out conecters and soldered yellow wires, will try other check tomorrow
Which brand regulator did you use?
i got it here, http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...ator-Rectifier they said it was un upgraded oem. will have to look tomorrow to see which one.
even though the stator connector has been hardwired you can check the stator voltages at the bike side of the regulator connectors,you have to start here,then look at the regulator output and then at the solenoid connector,
while you are doing these checks pull fuse # 2(headlight) to reduce drain on battery
while you are doing these checks pull fuse # 2(headlight) to reduce drain on battery
That is the provider who sent me the unit that died within 3500 miles and was on the bike only about a month. I understand that with electronics sometimes things happen, but their customer service left a lot to be desired. They would not issue a refund, only a replacement. I simply had no confidence in the product they offered. I finally accepted the replacement by I didn't install it. It was from a different supplier to them. I also wrote a review of facts on their web site and they quickly removed it. So if you look at the reviews, they may not be indicative of true customer experience.
Ride Safe!
Ride Safe!
before i cut the stator wires is there a way to test i reg/rec?
As far as I know to do the test that's in the shop manual the regulator has to be totally removed from the system.before i cut the stator wires is there a way to test i reg/rec?
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