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85 goldwing Ltd gl1200 & 86 Aspencade gl1200
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Discussion Starter #1
My 85 goldwing Ltd 1200 gl of 5months has been running great with no issues untill I got it out couple days ago for a short ride. Keeping close to the house while I ride as much as possible to test dependability. While I was riding it started loosing power & died. I tried to roll start w/no luck. Turn key & everything lights up but no start. Like weak/dead battery? So I had no choice but get jump off car & it started right up. I rode it for couple mins & died again. 4 jumps later & I got her home. Charged battery & it started & ran but eventually died again. So testing alternator w/meter showed be under 6vlts. & my buddy unhooked neg battery while bike running & it died, as a way of testing the alternator... I’m new to bikes so I followed his word & had external(add on) alternator duralast part#14946 tested at Autozone & it failed. So I ordered & So they replaced w/same exact part number from old alternator off bike. I can see where brackets were cut off alternator to fit on bike. & it had 3 prong plug. I get new alternator brackets cut & hooked up to bike & realize the plug wire coming from bike to be plugged into old alternator only has one blade on skinny wire. So I used it just as it was hooked up before alternator replaced. But I’m still having same exact issue the bike seems to be using battery power & then once depleted bike dies. So new alternator didn’t fix the problem?? & that confuses me because the old alternator failed at Autozone. It was doing 3volts & should be doing more like 15v? Sorry if this windy just trying to be detailed. Noting had been changed on bike until the alternator was changed. Checked all fuses I can find. & no sign of burnt wires? Any help would very appreciated as I’m ready to ride! Thank you
 

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Hard to figure out an added on alternator problem but check if the 1 wire to the 3 pin plug has power with the key on and the large wire has power from the battery.
"my buddy unhooked neg battery while bike running & it died, as a way of testing the alternator.." Don't do that, if the alternator was working it could have spiked your FI computer. That was OK when cars had no electronics.
 
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Can you post a picture of the way the alternator is wired on your bike, also from the sounds of it the alternator you have on has an internal regulator which is the remaining two connectors on the alternator. Some alternator will not charge with the internal regulator disconnected. When your alternator was checked at Auto Zone they use a dedicated plug to fool the alt into thinking the reg is calling for full output. If I see the alt I might be able to give better advice.
 

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85 goldwing Ltd gl1200 & 86 Aspencade gl1200
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Discussion Starter #4
Can you post a picture of the way the alternator is wired on your bike, also from the sounds of it the alternator you have on has an internal regulator which is the remaining two connectors on the alternator. Some alternator will not charge with the internal regulator disconnected. When your alternator was checked at Auto Zone they use a dedicated plug to fool the alt into thinking the reg is calling for full output. If I see the alt I might be able to give better advice.
325288
44F1012B-333C-4026-844C-53E667C20A05.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry didn’t mean to post twice. But this is new alternator & the existing single wire & plug. & yes your correct Autozone did use a correct fitting plug when tested. Let me know if need pics of new alternator mounted or anything. That single wire tested for continuity shows to not have any breaks in wire. Thank you for replying.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hard to figure out an added on alternator problem but check if the 1 wire to the 3 pin plug has power with the key on and the large wire has power from the battery.
"my buddy unhooked neg battery while bike running & it died, as a way of testing the alternator.." Don't do that, if the alternator was working it could have spiked your FI computer. That was OK when cars had no electronics.
Thanks for your time. The alternator is properly grounded tested w/multi meter for ground continuity from alternator frame to negative battery post. & the large input wire has power & the smaller single blade output wire also tested & getting power w/key on. I had my battery tested today & shows be good & holding charge they said.
 

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Well, from autozone I wouldn't be surprised if the new one doesn't work. Their electrical parts are notoriously junk.
 

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Have the new Alternator tested.
 
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You can have the new one tested but as I stated before the alternator you have had an internal regulator which needs to be wired in for the alt to work. I hope you did not already try the new one but the good news is that it should be under warranty.
 

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You have a three wire alternator same a as mine. You need to wire it so it will work properly. There is an "S" terminal - senses battery voltage, "IG" ignition terminal - turns alternator on, and an "L" terminal grounds warning light: 3-wire connections - 2.jpg
To simplify the wiring you can use the same wire you have and add a wire to it and make sure the "S" and "IG" terminal have power going to them - this will allow for correct operation of the alternator. If you do not connect power to the "S" terminal, the internal regulator/rectifier that controls the magnetic field that increases/decreases as the power requirement changes will not work properly.

Is the wire you have a switched wire in that power is only there when the key is on? You do not have to use the "L" terminal unless you want to have an indicator light that would indicate if the alt has failed or not. If you use the "L" terminal, when you turn the key on, engine stopped the indicator light will illuminate. When you start the engine the light will go out unless there is a fault in the alternator.

Hook up the "IG" and "S" terminals and check the output to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have the new Alternator tested.
I’m gonna try that tomorrow
You have a three wire alternator same a as mine. You need to wire it so it will work properly. There is an "S" terminal - senses battery voltage, "IG" ignition terminal - turns alternator on, and an "L" terminal grounds warning light: View attachment 325306
To simplify the wiring you can use the same wire you have and add a wire to it and make sure the "S" and "IG" terminal have power going to them - this will allow for correct operation of the alternator. If you do not connect power to the "S" terminal, the internal regulator/rectifier that controls the magnetic field that increases/decreases as the power requirement changes will not work properly.

Is the wire you have a switched wire in that power is only there when the key is on? You do not have to use the "L" terminal unless you want to have an indicator light that would indicate if the alt has failed or not. If you use the "L" terminal, when you turn the key on, engine stopped the indicator light will illuminate. When you start the engine the light will go out unless there is a fault in the alternator.

Hook up the "IG" and "S" terminals and check the output to the battery.
its been crazy busy work week. I’m just seeing these messages & just wanna say thank you for your response & detailed information. I’m excited about geting out to garage tomorrow since it’s my day off. I’ll post any findings or discoveries. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
You have a three wire alternator same a as mine. You need to wire it so it will work properly. There is an "S" terminal - senses battery voltage, "IG" ignition terminal - turns alternator on, and an "L" terminal grounds warning light: View attachment 325306
To simplify the wiring you can use the same wire you have and add a wire to it and make sure the "S" and "IG" terminal have power going to them - this will allow for correct operation of the alternator. If you do not connect power to the "S" terminal, the internal regulator/rectifier that controls the magnetic field that increases/decreases as the power requirement changes will not work properly.

Is the wire you have a switched wire in that power is only there when the key is on? You do not have to use the "L" terminal unless you want to have an indicator light that would indicate if the alt has failed or not. If you use the "L" terminal, when you turn the key on, engine stopped the indicator light will illuminate. When you start the engine the light will go out unless there is a fault in the alternator.

Hook up the "IG" and "S" terminals and check the output to the battery.
You have a three wire alternator same a as mine. You need to wire it so it will work properly. There is an "S" terminal - senses battery voltage, "IG" ignition terminal - turns alternator on, and an "L" terminal grounds warning light: View attachment 325306
To simplify the wiring you can use the same wire you have and add a wire to it and make sure the "S" and "IG" terminal have power going to them - this will allow for correct operation of the alternator. If you do not connect power to the "S" terminal, the internal regulator/rectifier that controls the magnetic field that increases/decreases as the power requirement changes will not work properly.

Is the wire you have a switched wire in that power is only there when the key is on? You do not have to use the "L" terminal unless you want to have an indicator light that would indicate if the alt has failed or not. If you use the "L" terminal, when you turn the key on, engine stopped the indicator light will illuminate. When you start the engine the light will go out unless there is a fault in the alternator.

Hook up the "IG" and "S" terminals and check the output to the battery.
Hey there. Hope all is well. I made a wire that will plug into my existing single wire & turn the end of it into to female connectors that should plug right into the two prongs on the alternator as you suggested. & sending pics of it to make sure that’s what you mean. I also tested the single wire with volt meter & when key is off there is no power to it.
 

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That looks good. What I would do is find out where that wire is coming from. If it is the old sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, I would find a better 12 VDC source wire that is switched - personal preference. Have you tried starting it yet? When you do, do not rely on the dash voltmeter, take a multimeter and check voltage at battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes I started the bike with the new 2 ended wire I made with battery fully charged. & let bike run & the battery gradually loses volts & when gets down around 8-10volts it dies. So it’s doing the exact same thing. So I made a 3 ended wire to plug into alternator & again the 3ends are all hot according to multi meter. Let bike run w/multi on pos/&/neg terminals & battery slowly depleted till dies around 10v.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes I started the bike with the new 2 ended wire I made with battery fully charged. & let bike run & the battery gradually loses volts & when gets down around 8-10volts it dies. So it’s doing the exact same thing. So I made a 3 ended wire to plug into alternator & again the 3ends are all hot according to multi meter. Let bike run w/multi on pos/&/neg terminals & battery slowly depleted till dies around 10v.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That looks good. What I would do is find out where that wire is coming from. If it is the old sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, I would find a better 12 VDC source wire that is switched - personal preference. Have you tried starting it yet? When you do, do not rely on the dash voltmeter, take a multimeter and check voltage at battery.
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Discussion Starter #18
The single alternator wire has red tape on it & runs into harness that plugs into bottom of computer navigation system that Ltd’s are known for. From harness to inline 15a fuse then red tape & then runs to alternator.
 

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The single alternator wire has red tape on it & runs into harness that plugs into bottom of computer navigation system that Ltd’s are known for. From harness to inline 15a fuse then red tape & then runs to alternator.
Interesting wiring. My preference would be to get rid of that red wire going to the travel computer connector. Use the sense wire from the original OEM RR - the black wire. This wire is switched and will provide adequate 12 VDC power to the alternator. I would remove the original RR to give you some room. Another option is to use the black sense wire on the "S" terminal and route a wire from the positive battery terminal to the "IG" terminal - 18 gauge wire is good for this. We can discuss an indicator light later if you like.

The stator wires at the RR connector appear to be cut, remove this connector. The larger RR connector with the red, green and one black wire - this black wire is the one I mention as the sense wire, should be disconnected. When you disconnect this connector, the red/white wire in the connector that is part of the wiring harness will still be live at all times. Make sure you protect it from touching anything.

Find the ends of the yellow stator wires that have been cut. Terminate these so that they are protected from touching any part of the bike.

Does the alternator out wire go directly to the battery? Is it an 8 gauge wire size minimum? You can probably use 10 gauge wire, but I use 8 gauge.

What are the other white wires for. Trace these as well. Don't need any surprises.

Did you start the engine and check the battery voltage yet?

Good luck.
 

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Yes I started the bike with the new 2 ended wire I made with battery fully charged. & let bike run & the battery gradually loses volts & when gets down around 8-10volts it dies. So it’s doing the exact same thing. So I made a 3 ended wire to plug into alternator & again the 3ends are all hot according to multi meter. Let bike run w/multi on pos/&/neg terminals & battery slowly depleted till dies around 10v.
The alternator only has to have the IGN wire hooked to a switched 12 volt source & the output wire hooked up to work. Poorboy
 
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