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hi, i have just looked at a diagram in my clymers gl1200 manual on page 161 it says item 6 is an air valve. i have the ltd edition with fuel injection but at the moment it seen ok. it seems to run at the same idle speed hot or cold.

thanks dave.
 

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There indeed is an air valve. And, when it's cold, it runs close to 2000, then slowly idles down to whatever you would have the idle set at.It has a bi-metalic blade with a valve on it.Uses water coming off Thermostat hsg, then to the fastvalve, then to the water pumphsg, withit' extranipple. Those are about 3/8 water lines. It's also electrically heated, fed batt. power from the fuel pump relay. You really need something like this, works a treat, without being part of the inj. electronics. Should be available from Whitey, down in San. Antonio
 

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Thanks Bob, you've got to be the most knowlegeable guy I know when it comes to the LTD. Would you happen to know if the terminals on the electrical portion of that air valve would read open or closed when cold? The one that I have is reading open (zero resistance,) same thing with the intake air sensor. Is that correct?

Any chance you might make a copy of the sensor test procedures and send them to me?

My Megasquirt ECU is close to being completed and I really need this information so I can carry on with the project.

Vic
 

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My 1986 SEi didn't show much difference idling hot or cold. Don't know if anything was wrong, but then it didn't hesitate starting right out without any warmup.
 

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I wish I had a way to copy stuff. I'll have to look into that. The air valve electric end is actually a small heater. It should be around 75 ohms, or thera-abouts. The Air sensor is a negative thermistor. About 2-3000 ohms at room temp. About 200 or a little higher at 180 degrees. Coolant temp checks the same. I sure wish I had an extra supplemental manual to send you. I'll get that hub out tomorrow. It's been crazy here the last cpl weeks. Also, when you fill engine with water, it's a good idea to bleed the air at at air valve water connection (s)
 

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Oh Vic. Don't forget tyo hook that air heater to the fuel pump 12vfeed. What fuel pump are you using?
 

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Ignore the GWRRA posts for the most part. The Air valve heater gets power from fuel pump circuit. The 2 sensors get 5v from puter, then the other side of sensor goes to puter. The puter isn't hooked to the air valve in any way.
 

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Ignore the GWRRA posts for the most part. The Air valve heater gets power from fuel pump circuit. The 2 sensors get 5v from puter, then the other side of sensor goes to puter. The puter isn't hooked to the air valve in any way.
 

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OOPS. I never used to be able to do a dbbl click. This new Wow 1.65 seems to let me do that.The previous ver would give me a warning. LOL :)
 

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I'll be using the stock LTD fuel pump Bob. I wonder why I get no continuity at all from either the air valve or the intake air sensor?

Do you know if the fuel pumps runs continuously on the LTD or is it triggered by the cycles of the injectors?

Vic
 

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VOM on Rx10? Or, if it's a digital, set to manual, it may be locked on Rx1 Try auto. Fuel pump runs continuoisly, always dumping over the regulator on the right rear, right behind the right rear injector. Give those ideas a shot. Have fun, and talk to you later. Maybe we can talk on fone tomorrow. I still haven't received that rotor. Almost 2 weeks. Maybe tomorrow. (Sigh) It's definitely in the system. snail mail comes through. LOL Later.
 

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The elec. heater speeds up the return to normal idle, otherwise, just relying on water temp. would take longer. One can unplug the elec heater, and the only difference, is takes longer to return to slow idle. The injected model, when key is turned on, the fuel pump, and consequently, the heater in air valve go on for cpl. secs., then the ecu will turn them back off (relay 5), till such time that the ecu detects engine running, then turns #5 relay back on. I've thot about wiring my headlight, taillights up to do the same thing, or use a oil pressure sw, and relay, so they're not on, except when engine is running. But, being as how I'm getting kinda lazy, haven't doneit yet. Whatcha think. If I want to do some tests with the key on, sure brings the battery down fairly fast, altho the Odessy holds up for quite awhile.
 

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So, in essence what you are saying Bob is that I do not need to connect the air valve to the homebuilt ECU for the fuel injection, because as you wrote earlier, it is totally independent of the ECU and all I need to do is tie it in with the fuel pump so that the ECU will feed 12 volts to the fuel pump and air valve simultaneously?

If I were to use an idle speed solenoid the control would have to come directly from the ECU depending upon coolant temp sensor feedback.

If I use the stock Honda air valve I don't have to be concerned with connecting it to the ECU.

What are your thoughts on this?

I like your idea about the oil pressure switch for the lights, makes a lot of sense.

Vic
 

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Right on, Vic. The ECU won't even have to know about it. Just let the fuel pump relay feed it. I think the MS will timeout the relay, also, just like the LTD, if I'm not mistaken. And, like was said, the elec. heater part of valve just brings it to idle quicker. And I think I would just stick with stock air valve. Provided it's good. With it cold, you should be able to blow through it. Might be a good idea to take the cover off it, and snope-i-gate. See if it's dirty, carboned, etc.
 

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Try me any time. Hang up on the 3rd ring, otherwise the answering machine will kick in on 4th. I'll be in and out most of the day. Going to check the mail in a few, looking for "that" rotor. Then might go out later to look at 1800, again. Can't make up my mind. I think I should check what ins. will be, first, tho. Later, Bob
 
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