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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello everyone- just picked up a 86 1200 ltd efi. have a few problems that i need help on. starts up fine cold but idles at 2000rpms. once its warm it wont idle and bogs down and stalls out. ive searched it could be the air control valve- where is it located, also any one know any one in the area to work on one of these great machines. thanks:waving:
 

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Hello and Welcome nomoresnow . I cant help or say if theres any local 1200 LTD/efi folks in the area .
I do believe there are a few on the forum who may be along shortly to offer help/ideas .
 

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first thing you'll probably need is the ltd supplement so you can do some checking of voltage and resistances of some sensors

the air control valve is located behind the fuel pump
 

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Having just got the bike, you should do a good walk through and check ALL the vacuum lines.
 

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Welcome to this great forum. Most of the local dealers hold to the policy of not working on old Wings, so can't really recommend anyone. However, the folks on this forum will offer a wealth of knowledge. For parts, see Jacks Cycle Salvage in Sanford. Very knowledgable folks and might be able to refer you to a mechanic that will work in your bike. Good luck and welcome to Central Florida, where riding season is ALL YEAR LONG.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well did a complete once over eveything seems ok, except for a oil leak at the back of the motor under gas tank, drained all the fuel add fresh fuel and sea-foam, same day same problem, two days later a lot better starts up fine idles down still has a little surge but not bad, so i guess it just dirty, lets hope. i need a good repair manual, what to you recommend?


thanks
 

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There are a lot of possible causes. I would first check to see if the ECU is showing any trouble codes. If not, that still does not mean there is not a problem with one or more of the sensors, but before going any farther, I would CAREFULLY check all the vacuum lines you can get to. The LTD has about 20 feet of vacuum hose on the EFI system, in various lengths and diameters. ALL mine was completely rotted. I wound up completely removing, disassembling, and cleaning all the parts of the FI system, and replacing all of the rubber hoses. This thing had vacuum leaks all over the place. I also found a couple more problems. One, there were air leaks all the way around the plastic top cover on the aluminum plenum (the part that the air filter housing goes on top of). Someone had taken it apart before, and put it back with half the screws missing, causing it to warp. The seal that is supposed to go around the outside edges is no longer available. I used gas resistant Permatex RTV sealant, and reinstalled it with all the screws in place.


The other problem was more serious, due to bad design on Honda's part, and because the parts are no longer available. The LTD uses a couple of reed valves, in conjunction with the AIR valve, to control idle. My AIR valve turned out to be ok, but the 2 reed valves were another matter. Honda made them out of aluminum, with rubber hoses BONDED on. The hoses were completely rotted, and were not replaceable. I was able to disassemble the valves themselves and clean them up, But the hoses presented a big problem. There was no way to attach new pieces of hose to the valves. After trying several different ways that didn't work, and a few weeks of trial and error, I finally decided to tap threads on the inside of the opening on the valves, screw 1/4" brass nipples into them, and install new hose on the nipples with hose clamps. This made the inside diameter of the fittings significantly smaller, and I had no idea if it would work, but I just couldn't see any other way. Much to my surprise, when I finally got it all put back together, it fired right up and idled fine.


I have a good understanding of how this system works in general, the various sensors send information to the ECU, which uses it to control the time the injectors stay open. With some of the sensors there are default settings the ECU will revert to if the sensor fails, but not on all of them. I am still not sure how the reed valve/AIR valve setup works. I thought I had it figured out a couple years ago, but no longer remember.


While I had the entire system apart, I took the opportunity to remove the air injection system and plug all the holes, eliminating unnecessary complication and sources for more possible leaks. Removing this system has no effect on how the bike runs, other than lowering the exhaust temperature and helping prevent backfires.


If you decide to take the whole system apart, do not rush things. Take plenty of time, take pictures and notes as you go. There are a lot of parts on this system that are no longer available, you don't want to damage anything due to not putting enough thought into it. Have a large sealed container to keep removed parts in, and mark all parts as to where they go. Everything has to go back on the same cylinder you took it off of, do not mix up parts.


As for manuals, I recommend the Haynes and Clymer over the factory Honda manual. I have all 3, but almost never look at the Honda manual. It is not written for the do it yourselfer.
 

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Great job Jerry H! I am in central Florida, Clearwater to be exact. I was a A tech when this bike was new at Honda of Orlando. However that was the last year I worked for a Honda dealer, Since then I have been with Harley's and teaching at the two largest schools for motorcycle mechanics in Central Florida, I retired a year ago and Now have purchased a GL1200SEI that isn't quite right. I am looking for a complete service manuel set, but till then does any one have a list of Trouble codes till I get a hold of a manuel set?
Mugsy
 
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