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I am replacing my stator as it died on me 2 weeks ago, it is a very long job as i am doing a couple of hours every evening on the project. So i follow Haynes engine removal procedures. I had quite a surprise when i pull of the rear cover to get to the stator, half a liter or so of oil came out off there (the oil has been drained by the plug and the oil filter had been removed) is that normal that there is oil in the alternator assembly. Also i tried to get the clutch slave cylinder off the bike before removing the engine but could not get at it, so i unplugged the clutch fluid line from the slave cylinder let the dot4 liquid drip and take off the slave cylinder after engine removal, is there any problem with that ...



Thanks Guys, the forum had been a great help through this hole matter
 

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I think the oil you found is normal. That's one of the things that cause the stator to fail.
Acids in the oil break down the varnish insulation in the windings, causing internal shorting.
As far as the clutch line, fill with fluid and bleed the line. Squeeze the clutch and tie to the handlebar before replacing the engine. This should keep it from dripping, and will let you get to it before the engine is in the way.
 

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from what i have heard here on the forum it is somewhat important to keep clean oil in your bike , it can be hard on the stator and stuff if you dont keep it changed pretty regular, so i would sayit is supposed to be like that,, im sure the real techs will respond with a better explanation.. Hammer
 

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That oil in the back is normal. There is a second oil pump (scavenge pump) that sucks some of this oil back, but obviously doesn't get it all out. :waving:
 

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/forums/images/emoticons/tongue.gif Yep..as JohnMac said :    The bad yellow  connections .. and the oil actually in the stator are the two main reasons for Stator failure on a 1200... When you replace the stator , its a very good idea to go to an aftermarket one with acid proof wiring.. Dennis Kirk sells one,I believe... They usually are blue , from the plastic dip on the windings... Replacement with a Honda OEM , unless its specially marked as acid proof..  is not a good idea.. SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif Perhaps here ??     http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/MMYSkuDisplay.jsp;jsessionid=Session%20[BOECV4FTY3YKVLA0WTISM4VMDK0NCIV0]?leafCatId=41202&catId=4&brand=241&store=Main&mmyId=3247 ((Sorry : I am unable to control font size on this board from this Mac, with Safari... You will have to copy,and paste the entire URL, I think ))
 

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Honda recognized the problem, poor batch of varnish from what I heard. In the USA they responded with an extended lifetime warranty parts and labour.
 

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SilverDave,
Have you tried Mozilla Firefox? It's free and I've been using it with good results.
 

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So I have a question Why the stator replacement rather than the alt conversion?

what made your choice one over the other?

Neil
 

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Well, i looked at both options! I knew it would be a lot more work repalcing the stator, as a matter of fact i am still working on it. I would say I have about 4 hours left to finish the job.

It did not make much sense to me having the engine to turn yet another alternator and i did not plan on adding more lights or gizzmos that would need the extra amps.

Since i just bought the bike last winter, it gave me the opportunity to have a look at almost any part of the aspencade to see if they were OK (better knowing my bike).

Finally, when the work will be done and after verifying that it is running fine, I will put Dave Campbell wiring harness in there, because i am still having trouble with loosing contact on startups.
 

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sbournival wrote:
Well, i looked at both options! I knew it would be a lot more work repalcing the stator, as a matter of fact i am still working on it. I would say I have about 4 hours left to finish the job.

It did not make much sense to me having the engine to turn yet another alternator and i did not plan on adding more lights or gizzmos that would need the extra amps.

Since i just bought the bike last winter, it gave me the opportunity to have a look at almost any part of the aspencade to see if they were OK (better knowing my bike).

Finally, when the work will be done and after verifying that it is running fine, I will put Dave Campbell wiring harness in there, because i am still having trouble with loosing contact on startups.

Did you look at the clutch ? how was it as for the Dave Campbell wiring its a good chose I put one on my 86 1200 runs great now
 

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tricky wrote:
Honda recognized the problem, poor batch of varnish from what I heard. In the USA they responded with an extended lifetime warranty parts and labour.
the life time warranty was only for the orginal owner, but if this stator lasted this long, it most likely was those wonderful yellow wires
 

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The clutch seems fine, I tried it and it works OK, I am now in the process of changing the wiring harness.

Did you cut the wires right at the regulator or at the connector !!! in your own experience as you did it tell me what you feel is best ...

As Dave's explanation are short and sweet with no pictures or diagram
 

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 ..../forums/images/emoticons/big_grin.gif you should cut them right below the white plug... gives you about 4 inches of wire to play with... even then .. you might have to add another 4 inches of  (yellow) wire to reach the ends of the EC harness..../forums/images/emoticons/cool.gif SilverDave/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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