The PG connector can be in a couple of locations. One is shown in this tutorial:

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1200engineremoval.htm

 

Thanks. That is the video I am following for my engine removal. But the earlier models have the pulse generator near the rear, later models near the front. So I do not have anything but a stator connector where they are showing the pulse generator and stator wires together. Thanks for replying though.

 

Once I got the radiator off, it was easier to trace the wires. The pulse gen line appears to be the third picture I posted. The nearest connector runs down the front of the engine to the top of the front engine covers.

The neutral switch was another smaller bank of connectors behind the pulse generator connector but at little lower and closer to the front steering column. Even with the radiator out, it was hard to pull the wire through. It runs just behind the steering column over to the right side front frame. But it runs under some cables that I had to loosen the cable clip in order to make room for the connector to pull through. Just posting all this in case some one else does this in the future. So far the video is pretty spot on. Having trouble with the timing belt idler. The 12mm bolt is not cooperating. Tried an impact wrench but the 12pt socket is just slipping. Going to the store for an 6pt socket to see if that helps.

 

Somebody did a lot of work repainting your machine.

Having pulled a few 1200 engines... It's never easy. But it's not too bad, it just takes time.

Good luck.

 

Thanks, I repainted her about ten years ago. The Texas sun (where I lived at the time) really did a number on the original paint job. So I picked the black and red colors, tore all the trim off, peeled the stick on emblems off, and had it painted. Purchased all new stick ons and put a new corbin seat on to match the colors. Got a lot of compliments on it over the years. Never liked the corbin seat though. Looks great but too hard for me.

As for pulling the engine, I think I'll get the engine out tonight. I'm down to the last bolts. One thing the video did not show is removal of the exhaust pipes after you drop them. I've got the bike on its center stand and the pipes are laying on the ground. They are definately in the way of dropping the engine out. In the video, they show dropping the pipes, but the pipes magically disappear from under the bike later. So I'm debating pulling the rear tire and pulling them back out that way, but it may be close getting the pipes past the center stand as they seem to narrow a bit in the front.

 

Engine is out! Making progress

Tonight I made progress and the engine is now out. I have the stator coming in to the Honda shop later this week. I finally figured out the exhaust front heads split from the rear and then I was able to remove the exhaust from under the bike.

Next step, taking off the stator housing and measuring the clutch plates when I replace the stator. I have a little slippage in the clutch under hard acceleration so I'm hoping just a few plates to replace. Never done this before so I hope the Haynes book can walk me through it. Haven't found any videos of rebuilding the clutch. I also need to remove and replace the gear shift seal and I would like to rebuild the gear shift mechanism. I've always had trouble with a false neutral around 4th gear and I've heard some clunking lately.

 

Wow, when you take things apart, you don't mess around!

But I do the same thing... I do my engine removals/installs a little differently. I unbolt the rear pumpkin, and slide the drive shaft out. This allows the u-joint to come out too. Which in turn gives me clearance to install/remove the engine without removing timing belts/covers/etcetera. I just don't like the idea of having those things exposed when moving engine around.

Either way works.

One thing you can do that might help, use a floor jack to roll the enting around. I modified mine with a large square piece of steel and a bolt through it, to prove a larger area for the engine to sit on. Then I can roll the engine, lift, rotate to my hearts content.

Finally, and you probably already know this.. get ALL the mounting bolts started before you tighten any down. Especially the top/front ones. The frame will twist a little when tightening the bolts.

Good Luck.

 

Yeah, I took apart more than I thought I would. Originally, I wasn't going to remove the rear tire, but before I knew the exhaust comes apart in several pieces, I thould I would pull it out by way of the rear tire area. Took the tire off and learned I still had to take the exhaust apart to get it around the center stand.

Found out my rear tire is worn more than I thought so I have that on order now as well.

I am curious, how to support the engine on the front face while working on the stator removal. I'm thinking of reinstalling the front engine covers for protection and cutting 2x4's to a specific length so that the oil filte and front covers can all touch the ground at the same time. I like the idea of your steel frame but I'm not going to go to that length for this one time engine build. I'm hoping I never take it out again. My goal is to ride a few more years and buy somthing newer.

 

I am curious, how to support the engine on the front face while working on the stator removal.

The Stator is mounted to the rear cover. So all I've ever done was put a piece of wood, an inch thick, under the back part of the engine to prop it up a little. The oil needs to be drained, of course, but even though the engine is supposed to be empty, the darn thing keeps slowly draining additional oil. The wood prop keeps what little oil is left from draining out the back.

But yes, putting the timing covers back on would be a good idea regardless.

Tip on stator install.. Be sure the hole in the rear cover, where the wire harness go through, is clean. Also apply a little oil to the o-ring on the new stator, so it slides into that hole better. And finally do NOT start the screws securing the stator until you have that wire harness completely through and the snap ring in place on the other side. Honda made them with absolutely minimum amount of wire needed, so you need to be mindful.


Now, to possibly turn you down another detour.. do you experience any problem with the starter motor not catching, and failing to spin the motor? If so, now's the time to fix it. On the back of the rotor (the round magnetic part of the stator/rotor), is the cluch for the starter motor. It's a pretty simple design, 3 rollers are spring loaded, and pushed up a narrowing gap. When the starter motor turns, the rollers are wedged into that gap, and engage the rotor. Thus turning the motor. I had an old/tired GL1000, and the springs were broke. It's easy to fix, once the motor is on the floor.

As to the clutch.. good luck.. I've never messed with the clutch on a 1200.

Good luck.

 

Just an update on where I'm at. Lost a few days to a bad summer cold.

I had one engine mounting bolt break at the right front upper mount. Spent time trying to use and extractor (useless tool those usually are) to no avail. Currently drilling it out and retapping for 10x1.25. Had to get the right tap and I'm still trying to drill out just enough but not too much. If that doesn't work I'll look into an insert.

Also had two M6 bolts break off at the top of the main clutch / stator cover. In the process of boring one out M6x1 and the other I'm trying to put a nut on with lock tite to see if I can loosen what is left. Welding the nut would be better but I don't have a welder.

Have made no progress on the cluth. I purchased a clutch removal tool, but it was for 20 and 24 mm clutch nut and I have a 27mm nut. Didn't know that until after I got access to it. Tried to modify the tool by boring it out, but it's hardened metal and the machine shop said it wasn't working well. So, I've got another removal tool on order. I tried to order the clutch nut lock washer as my maintenance manual states it should be replaced (obviously, bending the tab a few times it will eventually fall off). But Honda no longer makes the part so it's going to have to be reused. Since this is the only time the tab is being bent back off and reused I think it will hold.

Polishing the timing belt covers while I wait for the new clutch nut tool.

Honda no longer makes the clutch holder that your supposed to use to hold the clutch from rotating while you use the clutch nut tool so I'll have to figure something out there as well.

That's it for now.

 

update 8/27

I learned how to take a clutch apart. Didn't find anything wrong with the clutch so I've put that back together and will reassemble the bike now. The disks all measured within tolerance and the metal disks looked in great shape. Not sure why the clutch slips under hard acceleration but I'll change the fluid and check the master cylinder.

I have one bolt broken on the cover over by the rotor. Can't drill & tap out because the rotor is in the way of my drill. Debating just leaving that bolt off. I don't have a 30mm long socket to take the rotor off and I don't have the special tool to hold the rotor while taking the nut off. I assume I could hold the opposite end of the crankshaft which is what I did for taking the clutch nut off. Anyway, with a new gasket and that being a high point on the rear of the engine, I'm not worried about leakage. Thoughts?

Was about to order new timing belts but the Honda dealer wanted $90 apiece. I found the part numbers in the "how to" thread so I'll check NAPA.

 

Wow, you're really bustin' things up.
Clutch slip is often the damper plate. Are you sure it's not tossin' rivets? If it isn't the damper, then maybe someone has used some synthetic oil or additive that damaged the fiber plates. I certainly wouldn't button up that clutch without an answer, as it certainly won't get better.
Problems with the hydraulic end of the system will manifest themselves in the opposite manner.
There's an order to putting the engine mounting bolts back in. I found doing it Honda's way really helped. Is that even mentioned in the manual you have?

 

Hmmm....

If you take the center bolt off first, the socket might reach. Impact sockets are sometimes deeper.

Otherwise, you could try using a hand drill.. if you can find one.

Can you get to the bolt from the other side? I can't remember if that bolt hole goes clear through...

Good luck.

BTW, if you do manage to get the rotor off, take the time to inspect the starter clutch and the springs.

 

Never used a synthetic motor oil but there was a time regular car oil (10W40) was used rather than oil for motorcycles with wet clutches.

Can't get to the hole from the opposite end. The hole goes through but my drill can't get at the hole from the engine side.

I haven't had any trouble with the starter clutch. When you did, did you find bad springs or were things just sticking.

 

Never used a synthetic motor oil but there was a time regular car oil (10W40) was used rather than oil for motorcycles with wet clutches.

Can't get to the hole from the opposite end. The hole goes through but my drill can't get at the hole from the engine side.

I haven't had any trouble with the starter clutch. When you did, did you find bad springs or were things just sticking.

Hmm.. I didn't think you could get at hole from the other side. But it was worth a shot.

On my first wing, an old tired 1000, the starter clutch springs were shot. I ended up replacing the spring, and spring caps. I always figure, if you've got it this far apart, and you're literally one bolt away from checking something, might as well.

Again, I *think* of you remove the bolt at the end of the alternator shaft, the 30mm socket will reach the bigger nut below.


Good luck.

 

Thanks, I'll have to swing by the hardware store for a 30mm socket. I've got everything up to 27 mm. You know, you always need one more tool : )

 

I did find the clutch fluid very very dirty so I'm flushing it all out. I guess I've neglected it for about ten years. My bad.

 

Just a final update. The bike started up just fine after the engine replacement. Replaced the final drive oil, air filter, spark plugs, flushed all clutch & brake fluids. I had lost all the clutch fluid in the line while the engine was out. Took forever to get the line bled and solid feel again. New rear tire installed.

Follow ups: tried to replace the exhaust seal between front and rear exhaust that I took apart but had trouble getting it to fit and kind of destroyed it. Now I have exhaust leaking there. So I'll order another and try to redo that.

Fuel pump started clicking so I'll buy a NAPA fuel filter and replace that.

Otherwise, I'm hoping to get a few more years out of her.

thanks for all the advice. Steve's engine removal and stator replacement video are awesome.

 

Congrats.

Did you manage to remove the broken bolt?

 

No, I didn't get the last broken bolt out. Gave it some thought and decided to leave it be. All new gaskets and the remaining broken bolt is on the top of the clutch / rotor cover so I'm not worried about leakage. We'll see.

To be honest, I kind of hit the wall and just wanted to get the bike back together. Fifty may be the new forty but I'm tired and sore and glad it's all back together. : )

 

Is your clutch still slipping at high RPMs?

 

Not sure if the clutch is still slipping yet. With the new tire I'm not pressing the bike too much just yet until the tire wears in a little. Get that mystery film off the new tire. I'll know in the next few days.