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Discussion Starter #21
Saber Cycle sells the entire antenna for about $25.00 if I remember correctly. I bought one for my 1983 Aspencade. Works well for the radio, not so well for the CB. On the other hand, my CB might be the problem. That said, if you purchase one, I'd use "Blue Locktite) on the set screws for the top portion of the "Whip", as mine were continually backing out.

As for a flag? Not something I'd put on the antenna, but that's just me. I put a 18" Flag Pole from China, sold on E-Bay for about $15.00 (Flag Included). What we had was a "Chinese American Flag on a Japanese American Made Motorcycle, ridden by a Old, Overweight, Balding, Ex Marine, School Bus Driver" Strange combination all around if you ask me. You need to load up on the flags though. I've tried 3 different mfgs. and each flag only lasts about 500 miles before it gets Old, Battle Worn, and not very Patriotic to display! :(

Good Luck! Alan Miller
Hey Alan that's a good point, about getting a separate 18" flag pole just for the flag idea. I'll take a look on eBay and see what's around... wind blown and worn flags are OK :)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I own a 1986 Aspencade and the factory antenna is the one on bikes right side it is for radio and cb radio if you get original Honda.The antenna has a load or a wire wound coil 3/4 ways up and a adjustable stainless steel tip about 2 foot long .You loosen the set screw on top side of the load coil and move tip up or down or cut or grind off this wire tip to adjust swr reading on antenna for CB use. The coax cable in bike has a Aerial antenna male end that plugs into radio.This setup is also used on factory CB radio.To use a SWR meter for antenna adjustment. you ned to purchase two coax cables that have a Aerial antenna male on one end to plug into radio and a PL-259 coax connection at other end to screw onto the SWR meter, And the other cable from meter to the CB radio.About stainless steel Antenna not sure how installed into mount. but I think the rod shaft has a fine thread that screws into the base.I dont really want to take mine apart.But I think you could look down the bore of the base to look for tapped threads or take a small hard wire bent at a small 90 degree end and insert into the base hole to feel for the threads. Guitar or piano wire works nice
Hi Nightrider, that's a good tip re feeling for a thread in there... the small hole is very dark and I have shone a bright LED torch into it, but it's still difficult to see. A guitar wire would search it out (presence of a thread). Here in the UK I wouldn't really use a CB rig, so for me simple FM radio reception only on a whip is my goal here.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Hi Nightrider, I've made some progress re... 'but I think the rod shaft has a fine thread that screws into the base. I don't really want to take mine apart. But I think you could look down the bore of the base to look for tapped threads or take a small hard wire bent at a small 90 degree end and insert into the base hole to feel for the threads. Guitar or piano wire works nice.'

Yes that worked!! :) I used an unbent paper clip and you can 'feel' a thread deep in the top hole. I tried a selection of metric screws and can confirm it's an M4 thread no question, the screw goes in nice and smooth. So, all I need to do now is find stainless steel antenna whips with cut M4 threads on the end :unsure: that might be tricky but I'll report back :)

You've all helped with your comments (y)(y)

Hope this is helping someone else out there as well!
 

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Hey Alan that's a good point, about getting a separate 18" flag pole just for the flag idea. I'll take a look on eBay and see what's around... wind blown and worn flags are OK :)
If you don't need it tomorrow here is the link to the one I got: Universal Motorcycle Bike American USA Flag pole Luggage Rack Mount For Harley | eBay

Since I wasn't mounting it on a bar (what it was designed for) I seperated the base halfs, drilled a 5/16 mounting hole in the center of the bottom half, dropped a 5/16 bolt into the hole, reassembled the halfs, then bolted it to the bike. The only draw back I've found is, if you mount a rear mounted GoPro, you get the whipping of the flag on playback. If you ever have engine problems, the GoPro picks up the exhaust sounds at speed, which can really help your Tech (if you have one). Enjoy! alan Miller
 

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Discussion Starter #25
If you don't need it tomorrow here is the link to the one I got: Universal Motorcycle Bike American USA Flag pole Luggage Rack Mount For Harley | eBay

Since I wasn't mounting it on a bar (what it was designed for) I seperated the base halfs, drilled a 5/16 mounting hole in the center of the bottom half, dropped a 5/16 bolt into the hole, reassembled the halfs, then bolted it to the bike. The only draw back I've found is, if you mount a rear mounted GoPro, you get the whipping of the flag on playback. If you ever have engine problems, the GoPro picks up the exhaust sounds at speed, which can really help your Tech (if you have one). Enjoy! alan Miller
Hi Alan, yes I saw that, they mostly appear to be designed for a section of bar, I'd agree I can mod it to go on any tubular part of the luggage rack or similar...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well, just to add a final note to this thread I've managed to buy 2X stainless steel whip antennas and mighty fine they are too, nice taper to the end tips and 3.97mm diameter at the bottom end. BUT, I'd forgotten, or not appreciated, how hard stainless steel is to machine! I only have hand tools, and I'm struggling to cut a thread with a die on the ends to finally screw them into their bases :( close to giving up, and it may well be I'll carefully drill out the M4 threads in the conical bases to a preset depth and just epoxy glue the whips into place. They are a lovely cush fit and would go in approx. 30mm or so.
 

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Well, just to add a final note to this thread I've managed to buy 2X stainless steel whip antennas and mighty fine they are too, nice taper to the end tips and 3.97mm diameter at the bottom end. BUT, I'd forgotten, or not appreciated, how hard stainless steel is to machine! I only have hand tools, and I'm struggling to cut a thread with a die on the ends to finally screw them into their bases :( close to giving up, and it may well be I'll carefully drill out the M4 threads in the conical bases to a preset depth and just epoxy glue the whips into place. They are a lovely cush fit and would go in approx. 30mm or so.
I would suggest that you check around your local area to see if there are any machine shops with a horizontal lathe with threading attachments. Around here (Southern Oregon USA - a fairly rural area) there are a couple of hobby machinist who advertise on Craigslist. Should be a simple job (but I'm not a machinist) with their minimum rate charge. If you epoxy them into the bases, you won't have the steel/steel contact. Not a problem if you are going to use them as flagpoles, but a big problem if you intend to use them for their original purpose. Alan miller
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I would suggest that you check around your local area to see if there are any machine shops with a horizontal lathe with threading attachments. Around here (Southern Oregon USA - a fairly rural area) there are a couple of hobby machinist who advertise on Craigslist. Should be a simple job (but I'm not a machinist) with their minimum rate charge. If you epoxy them into the bases, you won't have the steel/steel contact. Not a problem if you are going to use them as flagpoles, but a big problem if you intend to use them for their original purpose. Alan miller
Cheers Alan, yes I'll have a scout around and see if what I can come up with. TBC.
 

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Yep it's all very curious. I'll hold off dismantling it at the moment. But when I get time, I'll measure the depth available down in the small hole, where the whip should push in, and just now I'm thinking I'll source any 3mm diameter stainless steel antenna whip and push it in with an epoxy glue adhesive after first making sure the whip is actually conducting, and making contact to the coaxial connector tip at the other end :)
I wouldn't use epoxy to glue it in. Epoxy would insulate the connection. Possibly drill and tap the top part and add a small set screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I wouldn't use epoxy to glue it in. Epoxy would insulate the connection. Possibly drill and tap the top part and add a small set screw.
You're right it's a dodgy solution using adhesive in this instance. Epoxy glue has it's uses, but a poor way of holding the whips, in this particular application, i.e. rather too permanent and no chance of making retrospective adjustments etc. and of course I've have to be doubly sure I've got conductivity before doing the dastardly deed!!

Now, I do like the idea of a set screw, so that's something I'll investigate and checkout as well. I should be able to do it so the 'collars' don't foul the set screw as they unscrew up, in order to fold the antennas down. So, when I get my act together I'll post what I've finally done :)

Thanks all for your input and ideas ?
 

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If you have an REAL thread die it would be easy to cut the thread on the antennas . In my country the proffessional die is square on the outside and the useless "hobby" ones is round on the outside .
I have stopped with loaning out my tools , (lost to many that way ), but come on over and i will do it for free for you;) .
Serios , - i dont think it is difficult to find the rigth die in your neighborhood .
 

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Discussion Starter #32
If you have an REAL thread die it would be easy to cut the thread on the antennas . In my country the proffessional die is square on the outside and the useless "hobby" ones is round on the outside .
I have stopped with loaning out my tools , (lost to many that way ), but come on over and i will do it for free for you;) .
Serios , - i dont think it is difficult to find the rigth die in your neighborhood .
Hi, yes thanks for your input, I only have basic hand tools - no lathe. Periodically I'm scanning the Internet and getting more info on die composition i.e. HSS, HSS Co 5 and HSS Co 8. I've learnt that a 'split' die would help in that it's then possible to make minor adjustments when making another 'pass' after the first cut has been done.

Can I ask, do you have a weblink to an M4 x 0.75 square profile on the outside die that would do the job - I'd buy a new hand 'stock' as well?
 

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Hi, yes thanks for your input, I only have basic hand tools - no lathe. Periodically I'm scanning the Internet and getting more info on die composition i.e. HSS, HSS Co 5 and HSS Co 8. I've learnt that a 'split' die would help in that it's then possible to make minor adjustments when making another 'pass' after the first cut has been done.

Can I ask, do you have a weblink to an M4 x 0.75 square profile on the outside die that would do the job - I'd buy a new hand 'stock' as well?
Sorry , i dont know where to buy this die . Years ago we had several factoryes for thread tools but now they only trade and the quality is not the same . The square design is old and maybe only common here in Denmark ?
I still think it would would be best for you to find an pro in your neighborhood .
 

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Discussion Starter #35
If you can get a split circular die with the 3 screw holder that should do fine. The old square dies went out with Whitworth.
Hi Bryanlj yes I've learnt that is the better (or at least more versatile) type of die, adjustment wise. So to summarise - and when I get the time - I'll look for a quality split (for minor adj purposes to get started) M4 X 0.75 die (I've already determined this is the required size and pitch) at least HSS or even HSS5 or HSS8 (% higher cobalt content) - not the cheaper carbon types - and a quality hand stock. I'll make sure it's used the right way around, starting with the 'lead-in' threads first, with a chamfer on the antenna whip rod ends. I've got a few other things on my plate at the moment but I will add to this thread later to finish it off (excuse the pun!!)
 

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OK was just trying to make it easier to start the thread "square"
On a lathe you would put bar in chuck and die against taistock winding tail feed in to keep square, on a pillar drill put rod in vice and through hole in table then use drill with mo chuck against die.

If you aint got either its up to your eye and hands to keep the die "square" to the rod, easier with practice!!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Final update, well I couldn't cut a thread on my third-party antenna whips with the tools that I had to hand. So in the end I decided to drill out the internal M4 threads in the conical holders and was preparing to drill holes for small grub screws to hold them in. But, I pushed the whips in to check fit and they happen to be a very tight interference fit :) there is no way they are going to come out now and that's good. So job complete, I'll check them periodically as they have to be folded down to get into the garage anyway...
 
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