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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With key in first position (acc) volt meter shows fully charged battery. When turned to "on" voltage drops 4-5 volts - enough to keep it from starting. Stock bike, new voltage regulator, new starter solenoid with 30 amp blade fuse. Been working like a dream- this was sudden. I went out to start the bike this morning and this is what happened. I have pulled each fuse with no luck. One did make some difference- #3 marked Tail illumi. Corn. Lamp, when that is pulled my dash comes to life and the solenoid will click but still not enough juice to start. Any help is appreciated from all you gurus of the gold wings ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Charging issues last year. Eliminated any stator issues - replaced Regulator and have had no issues there since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The solenoid was replaced this spring - didn't want to start after a long winter nap. Been fine since- got about 800 miles on it this year so far, want to put a lot more on it.
 

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Junior Grue
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New battery time?
But first have your current one load tested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The battery is a year old and has been on a charge "maintainer"
Holds a charge well.
 

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Junior Grue
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The battery is a year old and has been on a charge "maintainer"
Holds a charge well.
If you turn the key on and the voltage drops 4-5volts the battery even if new is suspect.
Have it tested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just tried to start it again... With the #3 fuse still out, on position had over 11 volts ... But only got solenoid rapid clicking. Makes me wonder about the starter.
 

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Junior Grue
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Just tried to start it again... With the #3 fuse still out, on position had over 11 volts ... But only got solenoid rapid clicking. Makes me wonder about the starter.
For only $200 including labour I'll replace your battery and send you on your way happier than a pig in sh!t.
 

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I'm with Ken on this. I know it's new, I know you've had it "maintained", but it sure as heck sounds like a bad cell to me. Just take the battery out and run it down to any autozone or o'reilly's and have them test it. That's why they have load tests, because you produce voltage just fine until a load is applied on a bad battery... have it tested... humor us. Also, check all the connections. Maybe the terminals are a little "icky" or something in the fuse wiring has come loose. While we're on the subject, what regulator did you use? If the battery IS bad and you used a cheaper regulator, that may be the route of the problem. The LTD/SEi is a little more picky about it's parts than their carbed brethren.

Just throwing ideas out, but my money's still on the battery.....................
 

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i would look closely at the solenoid connector and the regulator connector contacts,any bad connections there will result in poor electrical performance,hardwiring those connections will result in better electrical performance,but it does sound like your battery is suspect

at minimum you should do the solenoid modification and replace the dogbone fuses with ato fuseholders
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update:
Had battery load checked, bad
Battery almost empty of acid
Refilled with acid and charging now- will post results
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Final update:

Newly filled freshly charged battery installed-

Fired right up! :claps:

Kudos to the gurus again!

The battery was formerly fully charged but with the low acid levels did not have the cranking amps - now it seems fine. I will keep a better eye on the battery fluid levels :)

Thank you! Quick and easy and less than $5
 

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For the next time, (I hope it's not the case) if a battery is run that low it only comes back to life a short time. I suspect you will revisit this issue but I hope not.
 

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battery cahrge

you might want to do a check with a voltmeter to see what the actual charge voltage is,ltd dash meters are notoriusly incorect
 
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