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Hi folks!

Since I bought my GL1200, it has been killing batteries if it sits for a week or so without being ridden (no battery maintaner at the time). By killing batteries, I mean they would read < 6v and no amount of charging would bring them over 10v. The current battery sparked rather strongly when I connected it so I began looking for a possible short.

I've been poking around the electrical system and noticed that the resistance between the pos and neg battery cables is approx. 5k ohms with the key off. This is equal to the resistance between the green and red/white wires on the regulator / rectifier when it is disconnected. Is that a normal reading? If not, is that a likely cause for my battery deaths? Am I looking in the wrong place?

When the bike is running, the voltage at the battery terminals is stable over 13.5 and there is no continuity between ground and any of the three stator wires.
 

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with key off you should measure the amp draw in the system
you may want to have the battery tested,it might have a bad cell

or pull the neg cable off when not riding and check voltage after a couple days,if its below 12.5v you are in need of a new battery and a maintainer
 

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Get an automotive 12 Volt test light. Disconnect neg. battery cable. Hook up test lamp in between the neg. battery post and the disconnected cable. If it lights brightly you have a draw. Pull fuses and relays or disconnect components until draw goes away. Re-post findings.
A regulator could kill batteries if it is allowing overcharging-much over 15V and you will start to boil the battery. If the draw test is inconclusive you may want to hook up a volt meter that you can see while driving bike to see if over-charging is occurring...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Thanks for your replies. I will do those tests later today.
 

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I worked on a GL1200 with a similar issue and the problem turned out to be a trunk vanity lit mirror (added accessory). The little trunk switch that was supposed to shut it off when the trunk was closed had malfunctioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Alright, either I'm going crazy, or the problem was in some of the PO's wiring that I already removed.

Amperage draw on the battery with the key off: ~2mA (Constant with fuse removal)
Voltage at idle: ~13-14v
Voltage at 2,000 RPM: ~14-15v

Voltage is stable at different RPMs.

This battery is new (old was was unable to be charged after a 2 week vacation where the engine was not run).
 
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