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I/m in the process of replacing the ignition switch in my SEI. I've followed Clymer's instructions and am down to what is referred to as "The Upper Fork Bridge". The bridge has to come out to remove the igntion switch. The Clymer's manual is not real clear, to me anyway, as to what is needed to remove the Upper Fork Bridge. I don't want to proceed without some advice. Can anyone help? Thanks.
 

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You need to remove the big centre nut (You need a special socket to loosen the big centre nut, but you can tap it loose with a chisel and hammer instead) and the pinch bolt (Allen bolt) on the side of the bridge. This will give you access to the two top mounting bolts for the ignition. Don't overtighten that big centre nut when refitting or it will put undue pressure on the head bearings.
 

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Eamonn, thanks so much for your input. It sounds like you have done this before. As I look down at the bridge I notice a tubing going from one side of the bridge to the other side (it crosses directly underneath the ignition switch) does this tubing come out with the bridge? I think this tubing is a part of the leveling system, am I correct? I was fearful of removing the bridge as it appears to be attached to the upper forks. I did not want to have an explosion on my hands as I removed the last bolt. I have no trouble with removing the bolt with a hammer and chisel. I'm a retired construction mechanic, worked on Caterpillar construction equipment for over 20 years, did lots of this. I was mostly concerned about the forks and if there was anything unexpected going to happen when I released the last bolt. Thanks again.
 

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Peter, nothing will collapse when you remove the bolt, the bottom yolk holds everything together.
 

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Thanks Ted, I put the bike back together so we can take a trip on Saturday. I'll tackle the problem again before the month is out. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Mr 1200, thanks for jumping in. Here is the history. On two occasions while riding along at over 55 MPH the engine quit running. All of the dash lights continued to work and the starter worked. It was as if I had hit the kill switch and, this is the first thing I checked (both times it was in the RUN position). On the first occasion, I pulled off to the side of the road and the engine restarted immediately. The second occasion was a bit different. I tried to restart, the starter worked, all the dash lights worked, the starter turned the engine over but it would not start. On this occasion I didn't have any tools with me except for my pocket knife (dum, really dum.) I removed the spark plug wirefrom number four cylinder and stuck my knife up in thewire pocketand grounded it to the spark plug to see if I was getting spark to the plug. I hit the starter and the engine immediately started and boy did I jump when I got shocked!! I turned the engine off, reconnected the plug wire and off we rode. We rode on for another 200 miles with no problem. On the next occasion, the engine quit at about 20 MPH, I wiggled the ignition switch and bam it was going in an instant. It happened one more time and the same thing, when I wiggled the key in the switch it took right off. As you know, an intermittent electrical problem is EXTREMELY hard to diagnose. I'm not good at just changing parts because I THINK this might cure the problem but in this case I am fairly confident the ignition switch is the culprit. I bought a used switch on ebay with the thinking that once I got down to the switch I could test it with my ohm meter and if the readings were faulty I would replace it. Hopefully, my logic is realistic. Any comments, advice will be appreciated.
 

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Sounds like the ignition switch is a good candidate for the evil doing. Since you have a spare on hand it should be easy to see how the switch is attached to the lock. As Mr 1200 recommended you could change just the switch and leave the lock in place. It should be easier and you would still have the same key.
 

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I didn't realize this was possible until Mr. 1200 responded. I am now under the impressionI canremove and replacethe electronic portion without removing the ignition switch. Is this your impression also? If it is, can you explain how I go about doing this? It looks like, to me, that the radiator needs to be removed (I have no trouble doing this) in order to get to the connector. Am I close?
 

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Peter, I don't think you need to remove the radiator to get at the bottom of the switch. You should be able to get at the shield easily enough. If you are not having a poroblem with the key thn Mr1200 is right about the electrical block part giving trouble. I think there was a recall or service bulletin about this years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
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Ted, thanks for the information. Do you have any idea how I could get a copy of the service bulletin? Is it possible someone on the forum might have a copy? I'm still not sure how I could remove the electrical portion of the switch without removing the switch itself. You are correct that there is nothing wrong with the key part, this works fine. The electrical portion is attached to the mechanical portion of the switch with three small Phillips head screws. And there is a cross over tubing directly under the switch. I imagine the tubing is part of the air equalizer system, but I'm not sure. From my vantage point it seems like this small tubing would make it difficult to get to the Phillips head screws. Is there anyone on the forum that I could contact for more advice on this before I proceed? I sure appreciate everyone's input.
 

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Just read your article on ignition switch removal,I'm tackling the same problem and found the tubing under the switch can this tubing be removed without causing a big problem? Any other tips would be usefull.
 

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John, I was just notified via email that you had responded to my original question. I got stuck at the same place you are, also using Clymer's. I needed to use the bike and put it all back together and have not tackled the problem further. I figured I would wait until the rainy season comes here and then give it another go. There must be someone on the forum that has done this but no one to this date has come forward with how to go from this point.

If you do carry on and get it accomplished PLEASE let me know how you did it. One of the responses to my original question (from Mr. 1200) indicates the electrical portion can be replaced without replacing the key portion. But, I have no idea how you get by that little tubing you are faced with at the moment. The phillips head screws that hold the electrical portion to the mechanical portion are very very small. Perhaps Mr. 1200 coud be contacted to help out. I'm not sure how to do this. Can someone contact him and ask him to address our problem?
 

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Thanks for the reply, Looks to me that it might be possible if you take the handlebars off then undo the fork nuts and lift the cover straight up which holds the switch. I've got so far then run into a problem getting the fork nuts loose. Anyways back to work monday so will have to leave things till next weekend.Lifting the plate out from the top means you don't have to worry about that tubeing.
 

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John, thanks for your reply. I won't be able to get back to changingmine until mid October. Please keep me posted on what you do to change yours. There has to be more than two of us who have this problem and your input will be of great importance. I'm surprised the Gurus have not jumped in on this one. But, our bikes are almost 20 years old so perhaps they have forgotten how to change the ignition switch:cheeky1:. In any event they are very very silent on this one.
 

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That tube just under the switch is the cross over tube for the air fill on the front forks.

Twisty
 

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Discussion Starter #17
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Twisy, thanks for telling us what the tube is but this really doesn't address the problem. The problem is: how do we change the electrical portion of the swith with the least amount of problems and how do we go about doing this? I am anxious for your reply.
 

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pjfsail wrote:
Twisy, thanks for telling us what the tube is but this really doesn't address the problem. The problem is: how do we change the electrical portion of the swith with the least amount of problems and how do we go about doing this? I am anxious for your reply.
pjfsail, I'm afraid I can't shed a lot of light on replacing that switch with the fairing still on. I have have one out & apart to clean the contacts but I had the fairing off at the time. Read the service page here & it shows the actual switch unbolting & dropping out after the screws are pulled out the bottom..

Twisty
 
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