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The throttle switch doesn't have a code for "out of range". It's simply open or shorted. Setting the throttle switch voltage lower does indeed change the injector duration throughout the entire band. Lean isn't necessarily good. Especially with today's fuels. Sometimes it's like flushing two toilets, when you only use one........... I've never been a big fan of trying to cheat the system. If you have 1400-1600 rpm cold and it settles to the correct rpm warm, there's nothing wrong with your aux air regulator. The only way I know to get 3-4 more miles per gallon, rests with your right hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I guess running all those cleaners through the fuel system isn’t a good idea since my fuel shutoff valve is leaking now and I can’t find one. Anyone wanna buy a bike?

I’ll be removing the TPS and disassembling it to clean and test. Then put it back together for testing.

I was gone on vacation for a bit and came back to a mess on my driveway... (see attachment)
 

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Discussion Starter #44
TPS removed. Now to either fix it or buy one that will work... it doesn’t feel totally smooth especially near idle.

I was able to remove the old one with a special tool purchased from The Home Depot. See attachments...
 

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The OEM TPS cannot be repaired - sealed unit. Aftermarket TPS units that will work are on eBay - check for Honda TPS units, inexpensive and work. Buy a couple of them in case one is faulty - the QA on these units is not the best. See my post #36.

The aftermarket TPS unit case will need to be trimmed to fit where the TPS is installed. See attachment.

When you reinstall the TPS keep at the lower limit of the calibration and it will operate well. You have to calibrate with the ignition on. When you do this rotate the TPS until the ECU provides an error code. You can do this for too low a voltage reading and too high. TPS calibration has to be out quite a bit for this to happen.

For the fuel shut off VV. Mine leaked as well. Drilled out the rivets, inverted the internal 4 hole diaphragm, and went to the local hydraulic shop for a new o-ring. Put back together with small bolts and it has been working fine for 3 years. Here are some attachments showing what I did.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
The OEM TPS cannot be repaired - sealed unit. Aftermarket TPS units that will work are on eBay - check for Honda TPS units, inexpensive and work. Buy a couple of them in case one is faulty - the QA on these units is not the best. See my post #36.

The aftermarket TPS unit case will need to be trimmed to fit where the TPS is installed. See attachment.

When you reinstall the TPS keep at the lower limit of the calibration and it will operate well. You have to calibrate with the ignition on. When you do this rotate the TPS until the ECU provides an error code. You can do this for too low a voltage reading and too high. TPS calibration has to be out quite a bit for this to happen.

For the fuel shut off VV. Mine leaked as well. Drilled out the rivets, inverted the internal 4 hole diaphragm, and went to the local hydraulic shop for a new o-ring. Put back together with small bolts and it has been working fine for 3 years. Here are some attachments showing what I did.

Good luck.
I see in your attachments that one aftermarket TPS attach points are cut off. Did you end up using the attach points on the other one or did you modify that one as well? I just cut the tabs off of mine and and trimming to fit the original attach bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #47

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When you fit the TPS make sure it is flush, if not use an old brake caliper piston o-ring so that the TPS sits back a bit.

The attach points of the aftermarket TPS need to be cut off and the case rounded to fit, otherwise the TPS will not work.

Everything else looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Consider this subject closed. Replacing the TPS fixed my issue.

Notes-

1. The new TPS required some modification to make it work with wiring that didn’t appear to be the same (see pic below).

2. On that, the modified TPS arm had to be positioned outside of the holders inside the engine mounting area to get the correct reading of 0.5vdc at 0 throttle. The adjustments didn’t allow full and correct adjustment. The new TPS measured 4.08vdc at full throttle.

3. The engine operates on a default setting until operating temperatures are reached and at that time the ECM refers to the sensors to keep the engine running.

4. It was a challenge to determine the exact cause due to not having complete information. These guys on SSGWF (Steve Saunders GoldWing Forums) have helped bridge the gap in understanding the parameters of the engine operation. Thanks all for your help and until next time; keep the rubber down and eyes all around, they’re out to get ya!
320657
 
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