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I had a dull dashboard that I assumed was the result of burned out dash bulbs.

There are:
9x 37237-SA5-003 (14v 3.4W) "194" style bulbs (same # as headlight marker bulbs)
4x 30908-KM1-671 (12v 3w) like a small/mini 194 bulb
4 x 34908-MB9-871 (T10) "194" style bulbs (Hi-beam, OD, Cruise set, Cruise on)

Found some 194 style "Eurolite" bulbs and went to work.
I replaced all the 9 + 4 194 style bulbs with the LED's, and bought 4 new Honda30908-KM1-671 mini bulbs.

Replacement ofa fewof the bulbs requires a major dis-assembly of the instrument cluster.

I was delighted with the new brightness of the display.
The green neutral light now appears blue. Probably due to the LED light spectrum.

However, the Low Fuel and Cruise set lights would not go out.

I had to go back to the original 34908-MB9-871 Honda bulbs for the Low Fuel and Cruise set lights. All good now.

I also replaced the front headlight marker bulbs with LED's.

Overall, I recommend the LED upgrade. I like the added brightness. The only question left is- How long will the LED's last? (reading suggests that there are LOTS of poor quality LED's out there)

Hope this helps anyone else looking to do LED bulb changes.
Too bad I didn't do some "before" pictures.










 

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Pwhoever
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It looks nice. And yes for some reason the low fuel and cruise lights will stay on if switched to LEDs. On your LEDs, did you use just white LEDs for the dash or do the have other colors? And what was the cost?
 

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mr irrelevant
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Hmmmmn...looks familiar......lol..I love mine too...
 

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Yes, just used white LED's. The cost was $11.99 CDN a pair from Canadian Tire Corp.. CTC part # 7X041-8864-8
 

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mr irrelevant
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mine are blue behind the guages...not sure of their cost but total was about 35 bucks..
 

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mr irrelevant
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I went back and did a search for the list of bulbs i got and put on a thread on this site...Here is what i bought and put in....cruise control lights i just put in new regular wedge bulbs with no coating, you could use the amber A4-32 bulbs if u wanted too, but at night thats a lot of bright bulbs...just my .02

4 | WLED-x6: 6 LED Wedge Base Bulb | Dash Lights
WLED-B6: Blue
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1 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED Wedge Base Bulb | High Beam indicator
WLED-B4-32: Blue Narrow
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1 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED Wedge Base Bulb | Nuetral Light
WLED-G4-32: Green Narrow
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2 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED Wedge Base Bulb | Oil & Fuel
WLED-R4-32: Red Narrow
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2 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED Wedge Base Bulb | OD & kickstand
WLED-A4-32: Amber Narrow
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1 | WLED-x4-x: 4 LED Wedge Base Bulb | Back of LCD top
WLED-W4-32: Cool White Narrow
 

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Pwhoever
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I did the same except the last one listed for the LCD. Are you sure that you didn't use that one for the Reverse indicator? IIRC, those LCD ones are #74 type.Otherwise I did the same as you along with acouple others:

2 74-BHP3 (Blue) LCD lighting

2 74-AHP (Amber) turn signal indicator

1 WLED-W4-32 (White) reverse indicator
 

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Postpubescent member
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Looks great. One thing that Honda was slow to adopt was a panel light dimmer. They finally did it on the 1800 but you'd think they'd have had that one all the 'Wings. The overly bright panel lights aren't helpful at night.
 

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mr irrelevant
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Only one IMO that is overly bright is the high beam indicator if using the LED's....but i wear a full face helmet so it blocks the light from my line of sight if i want it too...
I didnt change my lcd bulbs..u are right, i used that bulb for the reverse indicator...thanks for reminding me....
 

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Help with LED Dash Lights

I realize this is an old thread but I just got around to change the lights in my dash. On my 1997 GL-1500,( I know my picture shows a GL-1200 I have both a 1200 and a 1500)
All looks pretty good other than, The Low fuel, Cruise on and cruise set lights are always on. The Reverse light doesn't seem to work
When using the 4 way flasher only the left side flashes both on the dash and the actual signals. If I use just the turn signals individually they work like they should. I have only converted the dash to LED. I did not change any of the turn signal bulbs front or rear. I have tried turning the bulbs 180 degree as some are polarized. I ordered my bulbs from Superbrightleds as they were listed here.
Here is what I bought:
2- 74-BHP3 Blue for top and bottom of LCD display
4- WLED-B5 Blue for the Gauges
2- 74-AHP Amber for Turn signal indicators
1- WLED-B4-90 Blue Wide for High Beam Indicator
1- WLED-G4-90 Green Wide for Neutral Indicator
2- WLED-R4-90 Red Wide for Fuel and Oil indicator
5- WLED -A4-90 Amber Wide for Cruise on, Cruise Set, Side Stand, OverDrive, and Reverse indicator

Anyone have any Ideas?

I used tmdriverwannabe List and figured he was missing some so I added them. I see now he chose narrow beam instead of wide not sure it matters much. I also see now that some bulbs that I am having issues with that others went back to the original bulbs.
I would appreciate some help and advise tank you.

Mark
 

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Thanks Bellboy

I did find some other site with more information also.
I went to RS and got the resistors I needed. Buyer beware I was not paying good enough attention and after installing the resistors and the fuel light still came on I was frustrated. I then looked at the package and notice the K after the 470. In other words I picked up 470,000 ohm resistor instead of a 470 ohm. Big difference. I still have to clean some connectors as the reverse light doesn't work. I still have an Issue with setting the clock. My clock circuit board looks good there is no corrosion. All the plugs were really corroded.

Well Thats what winters for.

Mark
 

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Pwhoever
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IMHO, the 4-way flashers is probably not related to the change over to LEDs. Especially if the left and right work independently with the turn signal switch. It is probably a dirty 4-way switch and needs to be cleaned.
 

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Is this also possible for the GL 1200's ?
I really have a hard time seeing my gauges,at times.
 

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Thanks Bellboy

snip... My clock circuit board looks good there is no corrosion. All the plugs were really corroded.

Well Thats what winters for.

Mark
Here is another link to a thread by Mr Magic Fingers on how he cleaned up corroded connectors. Looks like a really good way to clean those electrical connections fairly easily. Don't forget to apply some dielectric grease to the connectors after cleaning them.
Can you tell I am a fan of Mr Magic Fingers methods?

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/329591-good-clean-electrical-connections.html
 

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Just telling it like it is Tim. :thumbsup: I appreciate that when someone does a job they take care to do a quality job. When you get through cleaning a part (like the starter you worked on) or the connectors or the wiring jobs you posted on, they look like new. That is how I attempt to do it but you make me look like I wasn't trying very hard.
Keep showing us how it should be done!

Larry
 

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Yes Bellboy and Mr. Magic fingers thanks for the tips I did do the CLR treatment it worked on most connections. But not all. I got some emeryboards I thought I could cut down and scrape some of the more stubborn spade terminals.

jhngardner367 I looked for awhile but could not find the article about doing the 1200 dash. I never did it myself. It seems on the 1200 everyone was doing the brake and rear running lights and turn signals. The articles I did find had most everything blocked. (as spam) so If I remember right someone was offering LED as a kit. Maybe they are not around anymore. Seems that a lot of people were complaining. But when most of the text is missing it is like reading half a story. I don't see why it couldn't be done. I have not looked at my GL 1200 dash in a long time. I would also believe you would still have the same problem with some of the idiot lights. You might try calling SuperbrightLED. Maybe if you sent the bulbs from your dash they could match them for you. From the electrical schematic I could find it looks like there is 12 bulbs, all are 12v, 3.4 watt. But I'll bet they are not all the same size. hope this helps you

pwhoever Thanks that a good Idea to check out.
 

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Pwhoever

You wouldn;t think putting molex connectors together you could damage the connections but you can. On One I bent the male connector and another I pushed and broke the retainer on the female connector. Now I have to try and find replacement connector for these molex or whatever they are called connectors. It is like looking for a needle in a haystack.
 
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