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Discussion Starter #1
Was helping a friend of mine troubleshoot why, all of a sudden, his GL1500 wouldn't start. Got some great feedback on what to look at and we proceeded to replace the fuel filter first, still wouldn't start, and went on to rebuilding the petcock auto valve, but it still wouldn't start.

The next day we bypassed the petcock and it started! Let it warm up for about 10 minutes, then reconnected the petcock and it continued to run!

He had been having a problem with his choke lever not fully engaging when he started it so we adjusted the the free play in the cable so it worked through the whole travel of the lever.

After I had gone home the friend decided he was going to take it for a ride and when he revved the engine (still in his driveway) it stalled. He restarted it and the same thing happened again. When he tried to start it again, it would not start.

I know a number of people over the years have mentioned bypassing the petcock and leaving it that way, but does this sound like the route we should go next, or could have adjusting the choke cable travel as far as we did have caused the issue?
 

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Sometime when you rebuild the pitcock,the outer sides et pinched and won’t work,get it off and check,not recommended to leave it bypassed.
 

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The problem with bypassing the petcock for any long time is that the fuel can fill up the carbs and cylinders, not a good thing.
 

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Have you verified the pump is working? And is there vacuum to the shut off valve?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, we can hear the pump running when we turn the key on. The petcock would not hold a vacuum initially so that is why we put in a rebuild kit.
 

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After rebuilding the petcock, it is a good idea to test it as you would a suspected bad unit. Incorrect assembly can render it unusable and testing can confirm its serviceability.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Now that I think of it, we did retest the petcock after we rebuilt it. Had to reassemble it twice because the first time we had the vent in the wrong location. It held and did not drop at all!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After we got it running the first time, with the petcock hooked up, the owner went to take it for a ride and it died. Restarted and died again. I went back to his place and bypassed the petcock again, started it and let it run for 15 minutes. I took it for a short ride and cranked to 3000 rpm in 3 gears....no problem. Going to reinstall the petcock again (that I took apart and looked again to make sure it was assembled correctly) then pull a vacuum with the vac tool to make sure it works to make sure it runs correctly with the correct vacuum, and then to reconnect the vacuum side to the engine and see how it goes. My guess is that we are not getting the proper vacuum out of the hose and will need to start digging on the left side to find the leakage.
 

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If the motor ran like it supposed to,with no hesitation then it most likely does have proper vacuum,the big line under the carbs detorate and cause Ill running,
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We did more testing today and the auto shut-off valve does not work via vacuum off the engine, but does work when we pulled vacuum with a vac tool. We will order a new vacuum hose and find the leak once it arrives.


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Hum,the motor should be indicted low vacuum
 

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If there is a bad vacuum issue the motor won’t run smooth,pop back through the exhaust and idle erratic,just won’t run 6 cylinder smooth,what is the idle rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If there is a bad vacuum issue the motor won’t run smooth,pop back through the exhaust and idle erratic,just won’t run 6 cylinder smooth,what is the idle rpm.


Idle rpm is around 750 or so, but the engine does run rough. Can hear it best at about 2500 rpm.


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On the left side,there is a larger vacuum line on one the runner,mine was cracked there.
 

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It s on the intake runner on the left,there 3 but one is larger,the large one was cracked,I ct off the end past the split.
 
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