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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pulled final drive off to check and lube propeller shaft ( drive shaft ) splines while doing a new tire change. I found splines worn @ 42,000 miles ??) and also noticed gear oil will run from pinion joint when differential is tilted down . I didn't find anything in Honda service manual that addressed this but Clymers states; "Check that gear oil has not been leaking from either side of unit (ring gear side or pinion joint side). If there are traces of oil leakage , take the unit to a dealer for oil seal replacement. Has anyone else experienced this ? Is this a dealer only repair ? I found several final drive assemblys on ebay for around $100 but a bit hesitant to buy the same problem I already have ? I can buy all new parts for $150 but not sure about changing the oil seal ? Anyone got ideas ?
 

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Junior Grue
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Oil leaking from the pinion coupling is normal as Honda saw that people weren't lubing the coupling so they provided holes in the coupling 1984 and later to leak a little gear oil into it.

If your coupling is worn it can be replaced without replacing the entire final drive.
 

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Pulled final drive off to check and lube propeller shaft ( drive shaft ) splines while doing a new tire change. I found splines worn @ 42,000 miles ??) and also noticed gear oil will run from pinion joint when differential is tilted down . I didn't find anything in Honda service manual that addressed this but Clymers states; "Check that gear oil has not been leaking from either side of unit (ring gear side or pinion joint side). If there are traces of oil leakage , take the unit to a dealer for oil seal replacement. Has anyone else experienced this ? Is this a dealer only repair ? I found several final drive assemblys on ebay for around $100 but a bit hesitant to buy the same problem I already have ? I can buy all new parts for $150 but not sure about changing the oil seal ? Anyone got ideas ?

... As posted, Clymers is wrong there - the input side of the final has a sort of centrifugal pump in it which is supposed to help lube the input cup and saft splines there. ( This linked post by Mr. Magic Fingers is a good look at the final drive for the 1500 and includes discussion on this input side pump at post #4 )

Kinda makes the rest of your questions moot, but clean it and drop in some good 80W and get the input and output splines poperly lubed (the "Moly 60 discussions") and RIDE.
 

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Pulled final drive off to check and lube propeller shaft ( drive shaft ) splines while doing a new tire change. I found splines worn @ 42,000 miles ??)... I can buy all new parts for $150 but not sure about changing the oil seal ?..
Need you to post Picture of the Worn Splines, in order to discern if the shaft needs replacement.

I doubt you need to change the oil seal, due to the low mileage. That said, if you do replace it, then note that you'll also have to remove (and probably replace) the Circlip at the forward end of the shaft. I only replaced my seal the first time I did the lube service, but never since then... it just does not matter to me that any oil or grease escapes that joint (at the rear of the shaft), because I w-a-y overfill it with moly-d grease, hence it never runs dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
spline wear :

Have tried to attach a couple photos of spline wear , unsuccessfully , don't understand the Manage Attachments I guess, however to describe wear I would say that the splines have a wear pattern that is over 50% of width of spline extending almost the entire length of each spline.
 

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[Image posted on behalf of Car Toad; of his bike]
[CT says that gears were well lubed with unknown "Red Grease" (not Moly-Lube) ]




That is definately a severely worn shaft; Normal wear (even at 150k miles) would consist merely of a polished edge to one side of the teeth, and almost imperceptable material loss.

I'd suggest that you replace the Shaft, and also take a good look at the mating gear in the rear drive, to verify that it's not similarly worn --Usually the Shaft wears out by itself though.

Also, do the same inspection for the teeth on the rear hub, and mating gear in the rear drive, because if one was not properly serviced, then the other probably were not either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Appreciate your posting that image Alex, yes I was quite sure that was way beyond normal wear and have ordered a new shaft and pinion joint as it was also showing mating gear simular wear. Funny thing is the opposite end of shaft shows no perceptable wear , and rear hub and rear drive look very good ! Thanks to all for the help !
 

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Joint Pinion

Hy Wingers
I removed my final drive and discovered a fairly bad worn drive shaft and Joint Pinion. It needs to be replaced. Q is : how do I get the Joint Pinion from the pinion gear. I have seen and copied the "special tool" made of wood posted by a member. I am not sure if I can just hold the final drive in place on that wooden wrench and remove the nut or is there a circlip or a stay locking the nut. I have read things like shims and what else but it seems that in installing the joint pinion there is no need for any extra specilized settings and shimming. The other splines on all the other parts is in good shape.
As I live in a country where there seems to be only three wings and no special mechanics for wings, I will have to do it by myself. Have done the timing belts and other stuff so I know which end off a tool is which end.
Thanks for your help.
 

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Oil leaking from the pinion coupling is normal as Honda saw that people weren't lubing the coupling so they provided holes in the coupling 1984 and later to leak a little gear oil into it.

If your coupling is worn it can be replaced without replacing the entire final drive.


Here are some pictures of what Ken was talking about. I highly recommend a good cleaning of the final drive and pinion area... for everybody!

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...83637-1991-gl-1500-aspencade-final-drive.html

Tim.
 
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