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If you follow the Honda tech video, it goes over all the cancel switch testing procedures and you can see right where to make your measurements. As has been said, if you test good at the connectors, there is no need to take things apart as you will have tested each switch. Only if the connector test fails do you have to dig deeper. The foot brake switch gets exposed to a lot more crud, so it fails more often. Testing right at the switches, can give you a false positive as it won't test the entire circuit. The switch may be good, but a corroded connector in it's path way be the culprit, but by only testing at the switches, you would miss it.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Problem right now is there results from any of the wires except the white wireI have the Honda video. Thanks
 

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Problem right now is there results from any of the wires except the white wireI have the Honda video. Thanks
Is that with the key on, kill switch on and the cruise main switch on? The white wire doesn't go to the cruise module.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Is that with the key on, kill switch on and the cruise main switch on? The white wire doesn't go to the cruise module.
Yes Dave, all of what you said ,the white is in the 33 connector,I just assumed it was part of the cruise.?
Redwing may have come up with an idea,the cancel switches feeds from a plug on the right side above the fan ( accessible via removing the fairing)he thinks it may have broken somewhere because theres no power to the front brake cancel switch and that’s the first switch in line for power,tomorrow I am running a wire from known source to there and see what happens
 

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Yes Dave, all of what you said ,the white is in the 33 connector,I just assumed it was part of the cruise.?
Redwing may have come up with an idea,the cancel switches feeds from a plug on the right side above the fan ( accessible via removing the fairing)he thinks it may have broken somewhere because theres no power to the front brake cancel switch and that’s the first switch in line for power,tomorrow I am running a wire from known source to there and see what happens
Sounds like a plan.
 

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Discussion Starter #86 (Edited)
Redwing has been assisting via phone diaganosing the cruise issue and yesterday we could not get any results from testing the set button,today I removed it from the cluster and it was in 3 pieces.
Anyone have one in an old cluster they want to part with.
Found on Ebay
 

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Discussion Starter #87
UPDATE ,Replaced the set button on the cruise,found a cluster and removed the button and soldered it into the harness,worked like new,the video on how to test the system and help from REDWING with his vast knowledge with wiring on the 1500, I got it done.
Just goes to show that with the complicated system that one small part can ruin your riding day.
 

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The SE and Aspencade are the same.
Try taking the bike for a ride and hold the clutch lever forward while setting the cruise to see if that switch is the issue. This is the most common issue but usually won't set at all. Does it have a uniform failure pattern, like it sets and 2 seconds later it cuts off each and every time. Or might it go 2 seconds one time then 5 seconds the next time etc.
Also try pushing the brake lever ahead and try to set. Lift the brake pedal with your toe and try to set.

Of Course the speedometer must be working. Did you try 4th gear over 35 MPH? Can.t have LED for set light? :)
I have an ongoing problem with my 2000 SE. I live with it, but haven't been able to fix it. The problem is my front brake lever doesn't come out far enough by itself, to engage the switch that disengages the cruise. Anytime I can't get the cruise to set, I just move the front brake lever out with my finger and it will set. Either of the handlebar levers and the foot brake will have a switch on them to disengage the cruise, so any of them could be the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Being a KNOWN issue seems the fix would be fairly easy to correct.mine was unknown until I got all the test sequece completed which involved removal of lot of plastic.
 

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I have an ongoing problem with my 2000 SE. I live with it, but haven't been able to fix it. The problem is my front brake lever doesn't come out far enough by itself, to engage the switch that disengages the cruise. Anytime I can't get the cruise to set, I just move the front brake lever out with my finger and it will set. Either of the handlebar levers and the foot brake will have a switch on them to disengage the cruise, so any of them could be the problem.
The problem is the brake lever is not tripping the switch, It can be an issue with wear,or if they are not Honda levers that can also be an issue. If the master cylinder is crudded up and not pushing the lever back all the way. The easiest fix is to take the lever off. In the hole where the push rod goes find a shim The shim has to be thick enough to fix the problem yet there MUST be a little free play in the lever. I don't think the brake lever has a bushing. Only the clutch.
 
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