If you follow the Honda tech video, it goes over all the cancel switch testing procedures and you can see right where to make your measurements. As has been said, if you test good at the connectors, there is no need to take things apart as you will have tested each switch. Only if the connector test fails do you have to dig deeper. The foot brake switch gets exposed to a lot more crud, so it fails more often. Testing right at the switches, can give you a false positive as it won't test the entire circuit. The switch may be good, but a corroded connector in it's path way be the culprit, but by only testing at the switches, you would miss it.