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If you mentioned or knew that a long time ago we would have went right to the sidestand switch.

Go to the sidestand swich and jumper the gree wire to the green wire with the white stripe or even better just ground the green wire with the white stripe. Either should work but grounding it is more conclusive
 

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My bike runs flawlessly.i love it.has 164,000 miles. i am second owner.
here's some problems.from day one- i have owned it about 6 months.

when i put the key in it often times wouldn't turn.
i would try and try until finally it turned the ignition on.
rest of day it was ok.
nearly every first start was like that.
sometimes when i pushed the start button nothing happened.

sorry this is novel length.after 5 or 6 tries the button worked. this happened a lot but not every time. yesterday i was going to go ride. took 3 tries, then the key turned on. push start button. nothing.
i would hear a click once and now no lights come on.
signals don't work. horn works. running lights up front come on.

yesterday everything worked. I can put a screwdriver across the solenoid even without the key on and the motor cranks good. i had the battery checked too, it has 340 cca.
12.4 on the tester at the dealer. So i am thinking i need a new solenoid.and a new ignition switch. no fuses are blown. there is an inline glass fuse 20 amp the previous owner put in for some reason.
he had several things rigged up for helmets and bigger speaker wires and electrical outlets. I replaced the fuse. i know the solenoids are cheap. it has 2 wires pushed on to 2 prongs.

there is a third mystery wire heavier gauge that could push onto a spade connector. i think it was for something the p o had hooked up.
i know there are also relays and the left saddlebag has to be loosened and moved a little to get to them.but they seldom fail.

so what do i do first y'all?
I have a 91 Interstate and my problem is in the push button itself, took it apart cleaned it out good made a few adjustments and back to normal.
 

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I have a 91 Interstate and my problem is in the push button itself, took it apart cleaned it out good made a few adjustments and back to normal.
Respectfully I will say that is not his issue as the start button would not stop the engine while it was already running.
 

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My bike runs flawlessly.i love it.has 164,000 miles. i am second owner.
here's some problems.from day one- i have owned it about 6 months.

when i put the key in it often times wouldn't turn.
i would try and try until finally it turned the ignition on.
rest of day it was ok.
nearly every first start was like that.
sometimes when i pushed the start button nothing happened.

sorry this is novel length.after 5 or 6 tries the button worked. this happened a lot but not every time. yesterday i was going to go ride. took 3 tries, then the key turned on. push start button. nothing.
i would hear a click once and now no lights come on.
signals don't work. horn works. running lights up front come on.

yesterday everything worked. I can put a screwdriver across the solenoid even without the key on and the motor cranks good. i had the battery checked too, it has 340 cca.
12.4 on the tester at the dealer. So i am thinking i need a new solenoid.and a new ignition switch. no fuses are blown. there is an inline glass fuse 20 amp the previous owner put in for some reason.
he had several things rigged up for helmets and bigger speaker wires and electrical outlets. I replaced the fuse. i know the solenoids are cheap. it has 2 wires pushed on to 2 prongs.

there is a third mystery wire heavier gauge that could push onto a spade connector. i think it was for something the p o had hooked up.
i know there are also relays and the left saddlebag has to be loosened and moved a little to get to them.but they seldom fail.

so what do i do first y'all?
when you get everything running ok, you might change the fuses to the12 guage in-line fuse holder. they also carry a couple of fuses with you.
OK, if you go test the 4 prongs you should find 2 that are hot always. We will deal with them later.

That leaves 2 prongs. Plug the yellow/red wire in to one and the brown/red in the other. No polarity so no order to worry about.

Now back to the 2 prongs that are hot always. There should be a red wire plugged in to either one of the hot prongs and the other hot prong is empty.
as far as the key, is it worn? get a new one made. only 3.00at ACE hardware. try grafite spray
 

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Discussion Starter #45
My bike starts every time i touch the start button.so rule out start button and solenoid.i tied the 2 wires of the killswitch together.but it still works.i can use it to kill the engine.i got one new relay i will put in the lower right hand slot.in case relays can come and go in and out.a new one shouldnt go out.i want to put the covers on and reinstall the saddlebag in its place.i dont know anything else to do.i am afraid to take off on it.someone can get a heck of a deal on it right now.
 

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If the kill switch still kills the engine you must have twisted the wrong wires together. You might have jumpered the cruise safety switch or brake lights?????? If you find the Black with White stripe and the black with a light green stripe and jump them together you could be good to go. Common issue for the kill switch to fail. It has 164,000 miles on it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #47
There are only 2 wires in there.i twisted them together.i will look for the color combo you said.so i wonder what else i just screwed up? I hot one new relay in the mail.i am going to put it in the ignition slot.in case the other one is so old it comes and goes functioning.i dont know if thats possible.but if the new one hits and misses then i have another new problem wont i?
 
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