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I noticed the smell of gas on my bike today. so I pulled off the plastics and noticed a gas leak. I can see a drip happening (looks like from carbs) that drips down onto the rubber mat. My first guess is stuck float bowl (bike has been sitting 4 months). Does anyone have any suggestions on where to start investigating?

Thanks,
Brian

94 Interstate
84 Sabre
 

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It isn't easy to get in there on the 1500, but a long rod or screwdriver tapping on the bowls often frees up stuck floats.
 

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This may sound like a dumb question, but how hard do I need to "tap" ? Is there any fear of damaging the bowls/floats any further?

Is it just easier to take the carbs off to diagnose something like this?

Thanks.
 

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Just a solid tap or several won't harm the bowls and miight do the trick. I usually wrap some tape around the end of the bar so it doesn't mark the bowls. You don't need to hammer the bowls, just use your judgement as it doesn't take much to free the floats.
 

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I had a leak there. I replaced the o-ring and it still leaked. Removed the fuel level assemblyabout 4 times and realized the cover plate had warped and would not maintain a seal. I ended up re-bending the radial curvature with a hammer and punch.

Just something to check when you replace your o-ring. Like everything thing else on a Goldwing, it is a pain to replace and rework takes twice as long.
 

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Wouldnt hurt to run some sea foam through that bike. If it's been sitting that might clean it out. I also agree that tapping the bowls with around 5 pounds of force should help free them up followed by a good long run.
 

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Well, I have had no luck with tappin the bowls, so here is what I did:

Removed carbs per Jim Martino's instructions I found on the web.
I then shot carb cleaner into every orifice I could find and checked all fuel lines going into the carbs. Reattached everything and started her up. Same leak!

With the carbs on the bike, I can see the gas start running down the carb heater (see pic) and then dripping onto everything underneath it, but I still can't determine where the leak is originating from.

I now have the carbs off the bike and before I start taking the carbs apart, does anyone have any other ideas on what to do?

Where is the fuel float sensor located?

Thanks.
 

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Where is the fuel float sensor located?
That statement made in the previous post was indicating a different type of leak. On the side of the fuel tank, the is a float level sensor that ties into the fuel gage.

I would look at the bowl and accelerator pump gaskets real good. Also, the inlet fuel line hose.

That base heater core gave me fits with coolant. Unlike your fuel leak isolation, I had a coolant leak. Mine turned out to be in the vacinity of that heater with pin holes in the rubber tubing. Pain the in a$$ to find due to location.
 

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Why not run a longer fuel hose from the bike to your dismounted carb and look for the leak. The fuel pump will operate for 1-2 seconds when the ignition key is turned on.
 

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I think that is my best bet. So just hook the fuel line back into the carbs and crank in the "Off" position?

Do I need to reattach anything else? Vaccuum lines, coolant hoses?



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No need to crank it. Just turn the ignition key like you are ready to start . The fuel pump will be energized for 1-2 seconds. Sort of like an automatic system check.

There are no other safety inhibits except the engine kill switch need to be on run. Neutral and kick stand switches are not a safety inhibit for the fuel pump operation. I just checked mine with the kill switch and the pump ran for 1 second. Just keep flipping the kill switch and the pump basically stays on.

Or you could gravity feed the carb if you have another MC fuel tank.
 

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No need to crank it. Just turn the ignition key like you are ready to start . The fuel pump will be energized for 1-2 seconds. Sort of like an automatic system check.

There are no other safety inhibits except the engine kill switch need to be on run. Neutral and kick stand switches are not a safety inhibit for the fuel pump operation. I just checked mine with the kill switch and the pump ran for 1 second. Just keep flipping the kill switch and the pump basically stays on.

Or you could gravity feed the carb if you have another MC fuel tank.
 

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Also, you did not mention if you had any other carb problems or history.

Since you have the carbs out, I hope you plan to go into them for a verification and internal cleaning. It is another pain and you really do not need to replace anything, but why not? Also, check the operation of the accelerator pump and clean out the screen behind the needle and seat.
 

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Thanks for the tip. I believe I have found the problem:

It looked like the gas was slowly leaking from the bottom of the float bowl. Upon disassembly of the float chamber, it looks like the gasket is cracked in a few places and I can only imagine the gas was seeping from there. I did not see any "gunk" in the float chamber and the float seemed to be moving freely. I ordered a new gasket set and plan on replacing all of them next weekend.
 

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Thanks for the tip. I believe I have found the problem:

It looked like the gas was slowly leaking from the bottom of the float bowl. Upon disassembly of the float chamber, it looks like the gasket is cracked in a few places and I can only imagine the gas was seeping from there. I did not see any "gunk" in the float chamber and the float seemed to be moving freely. I ordered a new gasket set and plan on replacing all of them next weekend.
 

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Thanks for the tip. I believe I have found the problem:

It looked like the gas was slowly leaking from the bottom of the float bowl. Upon disassembly of the float chamber, it looks like the gasket is cracked in a few places and I can only imagine the gas was seeping from there. I did not see any "gunk" in the float chamber and the float seemed to be moving freely. I ordered a new gasket set and plan on replacing all of them next weekend.
 

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