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'95 GL1500 Aspencade
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Huge thanks in advance for any and all help.
The bike was driven and rode well as of two months ago, it has been in storage since. I recently got it as a gift from my grandmother.
New Battery

When you try to start it, all that happens is a click in the relay box on the L/H side. I do not hear the fuel pump or anything else. I jumped the starter and the engine cranks but will not start. I put power to the fuel pump and the starter and received the same result. Using a Voltmeter I have learned there is no power to the starter or the fuel pump. I have tried the kickstand, reverse switch, clutch, and even tried to push start it. I don't know where to go from here...
 

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Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
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the Fuel Pump does not get activated until the starter starts rolling, and then only for a few seconds,
IF, the engine does not start.
 

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Have you checked the kill switch on top of the right switch cluster?
 
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Measure the battery. 1500s need a really good battery to start. If the voltage is low it will crank, but not start, lower still and it won't even crank. Pretty much anything below 11 volts while cranking is a no go.
 

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While you were there did you check for power to the kill switch? When you turn the ignition on and the cruise control main switch on does the cruise light come on?
 

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'95 GL1500 Aspencade
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
While you were there did you check for power to the kill switch? When you turn the ignition on and the cruise control main switch on does the cruise light come on?
No I did not check the power, but I do know that the cruise control light does come on.
 

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'95 GL1500 Aspencade
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update:

I decided to start at the battery and work my way forward from there. I came to the Starter Relay Switch w/ 30 amp Fuse, and realized it is not providing power through it, so I'll have to wait a week or so to get the part but I also put power directly to the starter (which should bypass the relays...right?) and it cranks but won't turn over. So I don't know if that is a separate issue or what...
 

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Update:

I decided to start at the battery and work my way forward from there. I came to the Starter Relay Switch w/ 30 amp Fuse, and realized it is not providing power through it, so I'll have to wait a week or so to get the part but I also put power directly to the starter (which should bypass the relays...right?) and it cranks but won't turn over. So I don't know if that is a separate issue or what...
What is it you mean by "not providing power through it"? What is not getting power through it? The relay only sends power to the starter when it is engaged by pressing the start button if everything is in order, the fuse on it provides power to the ignition switch etc. There is a lot to the starting system. If it won't start with the key on and bypassing the relay something else is wrong.
 

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2000 GL1500SE
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Durolast 19284 is the same relay you can get at AutoZone. It’s $20 and fits perfectly. Just put one in for my high beam headlights. I think they are all the same.
That is not the relay he is wanting. The one he needs is the starter relay (solenoid) in front of the battery. The one you posted about is the ones in the relay box.
 

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2000 GL1500SE
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Here is some good information about starting troubles on the GL1500 1993-2000 models. This is from a post by DBohrer on this forum.
****
GL1500 Starting and Ignition Circuits
(1993 – 2000 Aspencade and SE)
02/21/15

Voltage flow from the battery:
Positive battery terminal to the 30-amp (main fuse A), then to the ignition switch (Red) wire, then to
the # 11 ignition/cruise fuse (Black) wire, then to the # 6 ignition/cruise relay (White) wire, then to two
locations:
1. The starter/reverse switch (Black/Light Green) wire, then to the starter relay A to trigger the relay
(Yellow/Red) wire.
2. The engine stop "Kill" switch (Black/Light Green) wire, then to the ECM and three ignition coils
(Black/White) wire.
The starter relay A gets its main voltage directly from the positive battery terminal.
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If the engine will not turn over when you press the starter switch:
1. Check the battery voltage and cable connections. (Around 12.5 – 12.7 volts, clean tight connections)
2. Check battery voltage while pressing the starter button. (Should have more than 10.5 volts)
3. Check the # 11 ignition/cruise “15-amp” fuse. (Powers and triggers the # 6 ignition/cruise relay)
4. Check the main fuse A (30-amp) located by the starter relay A. (Powers the ignition switch)
Sometimes its best to start checking from the end of the circuit and work back toward the power
source.
1. Check if the cruise on light (in the dash) illuminates when the cruise switch is pressed.
2. If it illuminates, everything from the battery through and including the engine stop “Kill” switch is
working good.
If not illuminated, check the 1) engine stop “Kill” switch, 2) ignition/cruise relay, and the 3) bank
angle sensor (BAS).
Note: It is very unlikely (but possible) the bulb is burned out. Did it illuminate when you turned on
the ignition switch..?? If yes, the bulb is good....!
At this point with the exception of the Engine Control Module (ECM) or connector/wire issues, you
have narrowed it down to the following five items: 1) starter/reverse switch, 2) starter relay A,
3) 5-amp “in-line” fuse, 4) starter relay B or the 5) starter motor.3. Jump across the starter relay A large terminals marked “B” and “M”.
If the bike starts, the problem is either at the starter relay A or the starter/reverse switch.
If it does not start, go to item # 10 below (5-amp ”in-line” fuse).
(The starter relay A and the starter/reverse switch are good)
4. Check the (yellow/red) trigger wire at the starter relay A for voltage (with the starter/reverse switch
pressed).
a. No voltage = check the starter/reverse switch.
b. Voltage = starter/reverse switch is good.
5. Check the (brown/red) ground wire at the starter relay A. (Should have continuity to ground)
a. No continuity to ground = check the reverse “neutral” switch located above the oil dip stick
with green/orange wire. (There should be continuity to ground on the green/orange wire)
b. If no continuity to ground on the green/orange wire, connect the green/orange wire to a frame
ground for a test.
c. If the bike starts then,
6. Remove and test the reverse “neutral” switch.
Note 1: There should be continuity between the “outside” and “inside” terminals on the reverse
“neutral” switch. (Push the pin “inward”, no continuity)
7. The reverse “neutral” switch provides a ground for the following:
a. To trigger the reverse relay switch (which provides ground to trigger the starter relay A)
b. To trigger the starter relay B.
c. The reverse control unit.
8. If the reverse “neutral” switch is good, then check the reverse cables for proper adjustment and the
reverse arm alignment (right side of the engine).
9. If you have trigger voltage and continuity to ground, then check the starter relay A.
a. The terminal marked “B” should have voltage (even with the ignition off)
b. The terminal marked “M” should have voltage (with the starter/reverse switch pressed).
1. No voltage on the terminal “M” = starter relay A is bad (or a faulty connection).
2. Voltage on the terminal “M” = starter relay A is good.At this point, you have checked everything from the battery through and including the starter relay A
(including the reverse “neutral” switch and the reverse relay switch).
10. Check the 5-amp “in-line” fuse. (Located in a rubber boot to the left of the battery)
Note: It receives input voltage (red wire) from the starter relay A and provides output voltage
(yellow/red wire) to activate “trigger” the starter relay B.
(Black wire from relay A, splice, red wire to white “6-pin” connector, red wire to 5-amp
fuse)
11. If the 5-amp “in-line” fuse is good, then check the relay B.
a. The (yellow/red) trigger wire at the starter relay B should have voltage (with the starter/reverse
switch pressed).
b. The (green/red) ground wire at the starter relay B should have continuity to ground.
12. If you have trigger voltage and continuity to ground for the starter relay B then:
a. The two large terminals “Red and Blue” should have voltage (with the starter/reverse switch
pressed).
b. No voltage on one of the large terminals = starter relay B is bad.
13. If starter relay B is good, check the starter motor.
a. Jump from the battery positive post to the large (Red covered) terminal on the starter relay B.
b. Does the starter motor run............??
c. If not, you either have a loose/corroded connection at the starter motor or a bad starter motor.
I have tried to make this as detailed as possible but work at your own risk.
Special Note: If you have worked through all the above and the bike still does not start, you may
want to check the pulse generators. However, they are not common failure items.
C63 white “4-pin” connector located above the right fan shroud.
White/yellow and yellow wires (400 – 500 ohms).
White/blue and blue wires (400 – 500 ohms).
Connectors involved:
1. There is a Red “9-pin” connector between the Ignition/Cruise Relay and the 1) Engine Stop
(Kill) Switch and the 2) Starter Reverse Switch. The Black/Light Green wire (item # 1 at the
top of this document) passes through this connector. (Behind the right fairing lower panel)2. There are two (2) connectors located between the Engine Stop (Kill) Switch and the Ignition
Coils.
a. A Red “9-pin” connector located behind the right fairing lower panel.
b. A White “4-pin” connector located behind the right fairing inner panel.
The Black/White wire (reference item # 2 at the top of this document) passes through both
connectors.
The Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) provides a ground to activate (trigger) the # 6 ignition/cruise relay.
(Located under the seat, behind the right saddlebag)
 
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