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I just got done with my tack cable on my 1980 GL1100. After about 2 rounds, with the kill switch in the park position, it fit right in, but I had to pull the cable out so it would freespin, then I used my fingers to twist the cable down into place. Then I screwed it into my tachometer. Got a tack now.

My original tack cable broke, and I had one that did not have the end that went into the tack, andI took the one off of the broken tack cable, and put in on and crimped it. (I only had electrical crimpers though) So far, it seems to work fine. I will eventually have to buy a cable. The one without an end come off of an interstate, andI put it on a standard. Can this leak any oil?

Also, I took the seat, false gas tank, breather and breather cover off and traced my choke, and lubed the hell out of it. LOL. Finally got a choke.

Updated Netural Light: so far, after I drained the .6 qts out of my oil down to the required 3.4 Qts, My Neutral light seems to stay off longer every time I ride it. I did not even come on today, until I put it in neutral. It started after I put in 4 Qts of 15w40, and I switched back to 10w40, with the required amount of oil in it that the owners manual stated. (3.4 Qts 1980 GL1100) As it run, on the center stand, I took out the dipstick, and roughly 50% of the oil was circulating. I cut it off, let it cool, and it stays right on the 3.4 mark on my dipstick. This seems to be working. Could it be possible thatMother Honda made these oil switches pressure sensitive?

Nightrider1
 

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The tach cable ends are the same on all the four cylinder 'Wings, total lengths do vary a bit but there should be no leaks. If there are you probably need a new rubber seal that goes on the end of the cable in the pump housing.

None of the neutral switches utilise oil pressure for operation, both the old style side mounted switches and the newer front mounted switches do operate submerged in engine oil and can have problems with carbon or varnish build up.
 

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exdavid,

I pulled the tack out just enough to slide out the old cable housing, and then Islid . it completely out. After I made 1 good cable out of 2, I just put my engine kill switch to the "park" position, and gave it about 2 good rotations, and it fit right back in, and i just torked it back. no leaks. The gasket looked new, thats why I did not mess with it. The "Metal end" come off of an my 80, and I put it on a cable that come off of an 81 interstate. Seems to work ok. The "break" on my old cable was about 4 inches in length, towards the tack end, and it was a completely "clean" break. No twist whatsoever. Never seen nothing like that before.

Merry Christmas,

Nightrider1
 
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