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I've searched through lots of battery posts and can't find the simple issue so i'm going to post the stupid question. I have an 85 Aspencade. Is the battery 12V? I'm having some charging problems and don't know if it's bad battery or charging system. I'm going to take the battery in for testing, but I also am wondering if it would be a good idea to carry the small battery operated jumpers if I have problems in the future.
 

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classicwinger wrote:
I've searched through lots of battery posts and can't find the simple issue so i'm going to post the stupid question. I have an 85 Aspencade. Is the battery 12V? I'm having some charging problems and don't know if it's bad battery or charging system. I'm going to take the battery in for testing, but I also am wondering if it would be a good idea to carry the small battery operated jumpers if I have problems in the future.
Hello Classicwinger, Yes your bike and battery are 12v. The 84-87 bikes are known to have weak stator's with the 84-85having the lowest wattage stators and the weakest windings.

You will need to test your stator, Theres a lot in the search box on GL1200 Stator testing and you could go to this site too. http://www.goldwingfacts.com/GL1200Statortest.htm

Some of the preventive measures toprolong yourstator on a GL1200 that were told to me byFactory Honda Company Mechanicsare.(I used toRace for Honda and still have connections - lol )

1, Acid build up and Heatare the main cause of stator failure, And to lesson the Acid effectin the "GL1200 MODELS ONLY" Change your oil between 2000-2500 miles, Preferably closer to 2000. and this removes the Acid's that attack the protective coating on the wiring in the stator. Use a top rated Synthetic Oil (people are going to bash me for this- lol) Synthetic oil drops the operating Temp. of your engine and since it's the Acid build up along withHeat that helps destroy the windings in your stator you want the engine to run as cool as it can.


2. Lower your Amperage use, by installing LED bulbs. Lower Amp's equates intoLower stator Temps.


3. A yearly engine flush to remove any acids that might have built up in pockets in the engine. ( I personaly feel if you change the oil frequently enough you shouldn't have to worry, But it's up to you- lol )


4. Use Iridium Spark Plugs, They require less energy to produce a Spark then stock plugs.


5. Replace all spark Plug wires, after 25 years those stock wires are not carrying the same capacityof voltageas a new set of wires will.


Take Care - Jim
 

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2. Lower your Amperage use, by installing LED bulbs, Lower Amp use Lower stator Temps.
Actually it doesn't matter. The load on the stator is the same no matter what amperage you are actually using. The excess, if any, is just shunted to ground.
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
2. Lower your Amperage use, by installing LED bulbs, Lower Amp use Lower stator Temps.
Actually it doesn't matter. The load on the stator is the same no matter what amperage you are actually using. The excess, if any, is just shunted to ground.

The problem is Dave,Most of time there is no Excess voltage from the stator on the GL1200's when they are electrically overloaded, Usually thedrawis greater then the supply. The GL1200'Shad small stator's for the size of the electrical load (or demand) The 84-85 modelshad smaller stators then the 86-87 models but even these stators were not sufficient for the amp draw from the 1200's.

If you have excess voltage from a stator then you are within the designparameters of that electrical equipment. It's when you have a high amperagedraw with a small watt stator not providing enough poweris when you start overloading andburning up thewindings in thatstator.And whendemand from the electrical equipment draws more voltage than the small stator can provide, thatoverheats the wires and breaks down the protective coating on the windings and produces a short. So you lower the amperage use or "Amp Draw" and that lowers the demand on the stator so it does not overheat the windings and consequently burn up the stator...Excess Voltage is good !:dude:Low Voltage is Bad...:X

This is just a Preventive Measure that was told to me by a Factory Honda Mechanic in Japan who I used to race with, You don't have to do it if you don't wanttoo.

Have a good day, Take Care - Jim :action:
 

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I am not saying that oil change part doesen't have it's merits but the stator puts out maximum wattage no matter what the load, nothing you can do will change that fact. You can not reduce the load on the stator by installing lower wattage bulbs or anything else. Even if you disconnect everything except the ignition system it will still have the same output. If you add more load than the stator puts out it will only run the battery down, no change to the stator load. The only thing that changes is the amount of wattage shunted to ground by the regulator. You can actually reduce the amount of heat output by the VR by using all the available current for other loads.
 

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I hear what your're saying, DaveO, and it sounds logical. But what I understood jk as sayin was that if the stator is OVERLOADED, LED bulbs might bring it back to spec.

I'm not a stator guru so I'm tryin to learn from you all.
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
I am not saying that oil change part doesen't have it's merits but the stator puts out maximum wattage no matter what the load, nothing you can do will change that fact. You can not reduce the load on the stator by installing lower wattage bulbs or anything else. Even if you disconnect everything except the ignition system it will still have the same output. If you add more load than the stator puts out it will only run the battery down, no change to the stator load. The only thing that changes is the amount of wattage shunted to ground by the regulator. You can actually reduce the amount of heat output by the VR by using all the available current for other loads.
I just did a search Dave and there is a lot on lowering your amp loadand heat in your stator by installing LEDS.

Here is a post from Mr.Exavid who I respect very much...

"One thing to keep in mind is that you want to be careful loading up the stator of the 1200s, they are hinky enough running a stock electrical load, "the more power drawn, the hotter they get."

The Maximum wattage is not the problem, It's when the demand is greater than the Maximum wattage, These stators in the 1200's are not designed to be at Max all the time they actually cool down if there is some excess voltage going to ground, but when there is no break or down timefor the stator and it's continulously overloadedit's life is shortened because it's to small andworking beyond it's capacity or design limit.It's the same with theelectrical equipment I use at work (I am an electrical lineman/engineer for west coast electric company's) And it's no different if it's a 750,000 volt Transmission line or a 12 volt Stator. When electrical demand outpaces supply it's called a "brown out" and when the equipment runs at max without any down time bythe voltage returningto the substation through the neutralin high voltage equipment or to ground in the stators case, The Generating station or in this case the Stator'soperating service life is lowered... It's really that simple.

Iapologize for not knowing any other way of explaining it.Maybe someone else can explain it better than me, - Sorry... And once againthese arejust a preventive measure's, YouDon't have to do it if you don't want too.

Have a Good Day and Take Care - Jim
 

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hmmm...I have all the extra's on my gl1100 disconnected..simply to prolong the stator's life.
I guess what I should do is determine the load vs the available amperage then make a determination as to what needs/should be disconnected (?)
 

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I am lookiing at the fuse cover tonite I took off of my 1983 Aspencade to figure the same thing out. The Fuse Box under the False Tank is maxed at 50 amps. You currently have a rated capicity of 60 Amps, and that gives tou 10 Amps more. I use toggle switches to turn off my running lights. Even the Clarion Radio System alone can drain the battery across town. Wings are meant for Long Trips. Not Local Hops. There are some things you can do to protect and Maximize your stator life.

#1. Keep the Battery full of Acid, not distilled water. DO NOT OVERFILL. Check as driving conditions increases/decreases. Same On Oil/Coolant Levels and Changes.

#2. Cut, Solder, and heatshrink or use a quality Black Electrical Tape on the 3 yellow wires that connect to the stator on the left side closest to the battery. These connections usually get dirty easily, and loose it's grease due to the heat, and can melt the wires. Getting rid of the connector reduces the risk of intermittent Stator Connections, or ruining your stator.

#3 Do not exceed the 60 Amp Draw Rating (I believe per hour). Even on my 83 Aspencade, I can ride as I watch the voltmeter at 13 .5-14. 4, and I can turn on the radio, and loose one volt. At crusing speed, you loose little.

#4 Keep all connections either Hot or Grounds CLEAN. This reduces heat, and the overload discharges correctly. A really big task.

#5. In City Driving, Try to Gear down well before hitting the brake lights when you have to stop at a red light. (Keep a watch behind You). I have seen a 1 volt drop, Not Amperage, Loss, but I regain it when Speeding up, same as the radio.

#6. Use caution when the Voltage drops under 11.4 Volts. The Wing will not start.

#7. Install Toggle Swithches on all of your running lights. Really, you do not need anything but a Headlight, Taillight, and Blinkers in the daytime.

#8. Watch for cracked or frayed wires. If you find any, Replace any with the same guage wire using heatshrink and Solder them. Do NOT twist and tape, because this actuallly increases heat.

#9. Watch for shorted Grounded Running Lights and keep clean. This will also make your stator work harder. Seenms crazy, but I had a runnning light ground light go out, and I watched as it climed back up fast after I repaired it.

#10. Keep all of your fluid levels full. This includes Coolant, Oil, (Replase as nessary) Battery acid (Always remove battey when refilling and use eye protection). If your battery will not take a 2 amp per hour overnite charge and is not at 100% the next morning, Replace it, and or carry a spare. Do NOT Overfill the battery.

#11. Do not hold your Starter Button down over 5 seconds when srarting your enging. This is your 1st maximum draw, and can burn out your STARTER . Remember the 5 second rule. Wait 15 seconds before you restart EVERY Time. Also, make sure you ALWAYS start the Wing in Netural.

#12. Always use a battery tender (Trickle Charge when parked overnight.) The radio is hooked to the battery to retain memory, as a few other systems. And remember to always turn off your Kill switch and close your fuel petcock EVERY TIME you turn your engine off. Doing this (Kill Switch Off) will keep your coils cool if on Acessories listening to the radio if/while working on your GoldWing. Crazy, but true..

Doing these things above will help keep your Stator and Wing working well for many years to come. Most usually go out around 100,000 miles.

Good Luck,
Nightrider1


Lyrkin wrote:
hmmm...I have all the extra's on my gl1100 disconnected..simply to prolong the stator's life.
I guess what I should do is determine the load vs the available amperage then make a determination as to what needs/should be disconnected (?)
 

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Remove all connectors in the charging system. (at regulator and stator) If your charging system is working properly and you have a good battery and are using factory lighting only, you should not have any problems. Only use a battery tender when your bike has to set for more than a couple of weeks without riding. A properly working charging system will maintain your battery if you ride on a regular basis. I took out the connectors at the regulator and stator and run factory lighting. Since doing away with the connectors my voltage is more consistent. Some of these bikes run for years and for thousands of miles without any problems. Mine may fail today, but I can't be worried about that when I'm riding. To many cagers out there. :action:
 

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Right on !
All I'm running atm is the headlight brakelight and signals..but I would like to get the sound and running lights toggled and go from there..(will have to remount the lights)
Going to pop off the sidecover and have a look at that connector from the stator after supper..still toying with doing an overnight ride into the okanagon tomorrow.

~~~~

It would appear that I have some soldering to do...just checked and I indeed have the connecter...and the ground strap is in terrible shape..
 

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I have a question. Where can you run the LEDS? Taillights? Running Lights? Blinkers? Do I have to swap out any connectors anywhere where the led's go in at? Where can i purchase these? On my 83 Aspencade, I have a total of 24 lights. The stator stays fairly cool. On my 80, I cannot run as many, because the Amperage on my ACC Terminal gives me a total of 45 Amps. On my Aspy, it is 60. (I made a 5amp mistake above)
Thanks,
Nightrider1
 

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Nightrider1 wrote:
I have a question. Where can you run the LEDS? Taillights? Running Lights? Blinkers? Do I have to swap out any connectors anywhere where the led's go in at? Where can i purchase these? On my 83 Aspencade, I have a total of 24 lights. The stator stays fairly cool. On my 80, I cannot run as many, because the Amperage on my ACC Terminal gives me a total of 45 Amps. On my Aspy, it is 60. (I made a 5amp mistake above)
Thanks,
Nightrider1
You do not have a 60 amp or even 45 amp charging system output, 25 amps MAX (300 watts at 12 volts) at 3000 RPM. All 1100s are the same stator unless aftermarket and then you might get 30 amps.
You can get LED bulbs for everything except the headlight. They just go in the socket like a regular bulb. You will have to change the flasher to an electronic one for LEDs. As long as you are not overloading the system to the point of running the battery down there is no need to use LEDs and actually it is better to use all the available power you can to keep the voltage regulator cooler. The stator runs at constant load (RPM dependant) no matter how much load you put on the system.
 
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