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After my initial success with the wire wiggling and WD40 , I have doubled the mileage she will do from cold before cutting out, only to restrat a minute later, could this be the Ignition Control Unit as I have checked grounding to the coils, Ignition switch etc.??

Does anyone know where I can get hold of this unit second hand (,1985 American Import into Britain, Aspencade,) or maybe borrow one to see if this eliminates the problem ( I would cover postage naturally ).



cheers :stumped:
 

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It's possible the ICU could be the problem but I wouldn't think it too likely. Could be the pulse coils down by your timing belts too, but that wouldn't be my first candidate either. When the bike cuts out do you lose all power to everything or is it just the ignition. From your description I'd be more suspicious of the ignition switch or a relay acting upthan the ICU. Usually when the electronic modules go they go, no peekaboo.
 

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Hello Chris. I think it's going to be a thorough check of all the connections at the ignition, coils, relays etc. before going out and spending any money. :waving:
 

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Hi Exavid, When it cuts out, I only loose the spark, all ignition lights etc. stay on, can you tell me how many relays I'm looking for ? Thanks very much .:waving:
 

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Try wwwukbikebreakers.com Chris,

Pete
 

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chris vernon wrote:
Hi Exavid, When it cuts out, I only loose the spark, all ignition lights etc. stay on, can you tell me how many relays I'm looking for ? Thanks very much .:waving:
I wish I'd kept my 1200 wiring diagrams but I let them go when I sold the bike. My 1500 diagrams are a bit different. Sorry I can't be more specific, but hang in there, lots of 1200 guys here.
 

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Since it appears to be warm up ,and temperature sensitive.. I would guess the pulse generators long before the  ICU ... /forums/images/emoticons/confused.gifI believe I read that  pro  wrenchers use a cooling blast on  a hot pulse generator to "prove" its the PG...  CO2 in a fire extinguisher,  would work , I guess.. but would need the PG's exposed to test it this way./forums/images/emoticons/cool.gif. I guess you can get a aerosol can of "Cold"  if you are a pro Mechanic/forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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The pulsers were mythought too in my first response. Though I think there might still be something loose in the wiring since Chris mentioned wiggling the wires and getting longer runs.
 

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Hi Tricky, got the timing belt cover off today ready to look at the Pulse generators, cheers for your advice. If a pulse generator is faulty and cuts out when hot, is it likely that after this cut out, they can re set, as she 'll run all day after this happens ?

Another interesting thing I've found is that on three occasions on my test runs, if I disconnect the block between the kill switch and the rest of the ignition system, and immediately re connect, she seems to fireright up, could the break in contact cause the pulsers or some switch somewhere to re set ? May be a co incidence.

thanks fo your help on this, Chris.:waving:
 

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Chris, Looking in my Clymermanual, the black/white wires from the coils go to the kill switch at the throttle, then to ground.
I wonder if you have a bad connection on the "ground" side of the wiring?
Looks like if you run a wire from the black/white wires on the coils to the battery negative, you can bypass some connections for testing.
 

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Hi Tricky, you were right on with your diagnosis, new pulsers arrived over the weekend and i've fitted them - no stopping when hot, thanks very much for your advice :)! :clapper::waving:
 
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