[CaptainMidnight85]

Hello all.

I have a set of 140404 Accel coils that I want to put on my '82 GL1100, (actually found a black set).
I know the stock plug wires have around 5k ohms to them, due to the resistor in the cap.
The wires that came with the Accel Coils have 10k ohm of resistance in them. Not a resistor, just that much resistance in the wires.

Question is, is it ok to run these plug wires, will the 10k ohms resistance hurt anything?
I notice that the stock coils have a resistor attached to the black wire on the coils. Does this need to be installed with the Accel coils?
Is there anything else I should be aware of when installing these coils?

(I have read the threads saying to use solid copper wires with the stock boots and 5kohm resisters, but want to give these wires a shot it the 10k ohm thing is not an issue)

You need ballast for those 0.7 ohm coils.

How much depends on your trigger.

Point or Electronic?

Maybe go with what Accell/Prestolite recommends and then build your performance program up from their set-up?

Afterward, make the primary side of the ignition tops on the list, then go to the secondary side adjusting resistance from the coil to the plug. Remember, what goes in must come out. How it goes in has everything to do with how it is going to come out on most street ignitions.

 

[CaptainMidnight85]

the '82 GL runs CDI ignition.

I contacted Accel for support, they said they do not have information regarding specific models.
So, when you say primary side of the ignigion, is that through the pickup coils on the CDI to the coils. There I have around 700 ohms if I remember right.

Ok, ...all I saw was the 1000 in your avatar profile to the left.

A 1100 needs:

.4 ohms seen on the primary side,
22K ohms (+/-5K) on the secondary if '80/'81,
16.7K ohms (+/-1.6K) on the secondary if '82/'83.
...if using the factory triggering pulsers and CDI.

"Ballast" is used to adjust primary resistance - In your case; from .7 (your Accell coils) to .4 ohms (resistance required by your factory primary set-up).

I wouldn't concentrate too long on adjusting the primary side right now.
Wire it, ohm it all out to know and start it. Let it run at idle as this is where the highest voltages will be found. Monitor the pulse units for temperature or overheating. "Too Hot" is discomfort to your fingers.

Those coils are generic to most 4-cylinder bikes and should be a bolt-on-and-go for the street. Fine tuning everything (read: "more performance") afterward is up to you.

Kinda crazy that they're telling you that you are on your own... ???