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I have not been able to get into the manual or the bike just yet. So I was wondering if anyone knows if the connectors for the rear speakers are already in place? I see where I can get the rear speaker kit, including the wire harness for around $35-40. The bike is a 1988 GL1500. Thanks! Wendell
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Wendell, my 89 already had rear speakers and harness as well as an aftermarket fader, which I have now removed.

The easiest way to see if you have rear speaker wiring is to open your rear trunk lid and see if wiring is going up into the rear speaker housings through a round hole in the bracket of the hinges.

If not, you need a harness. One thing I have been doing this winter is eliminatating all the existing speaker wiring by bringing the radio outputs back to the trunk and wiring monster cable wiring from the trunk to the front and rear speakers. In the trunk I mounted a quad 80 watt amp and a graphic equalizer with front to rear fader. Once set I don't need to get to them while riding since I still have volume and tone controls in the radio itself.

If you want details, just ask.
 

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Rudy wrote:
In the trunk I mounted a quad 80 watt amp and a graphic equalizer with front to rear fader. Once set I don't need to get to them while riding since I still have volume and tone controls in the radio itself.

If you want details, just ask.
Rudy I would like the details and a pic of your work in this post would be helpful.

Keep on Winging:bat:
 

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Other side of the pond
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Wendell, the connectors for the speakers to plug into are under the saddle at the rear in the black rubber boot.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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2wings wrote:
Rudy wrote:
In the trunk I mounted a quad 80 watt amp and a graphic equalizer with front to rear fader. Once set I don't need to get to them while riding since I still have volume and tone controls in the radio itself.

If you want details, just ask.
Rudy I would like the details and a pic of your work in this post would be helpful.

Keep on Winging:bat:
I'll try to take some shots tonight and give you the details once I escape working for the man.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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This is a series so give me a minute to get all the shots in here...

Here is how I eliminated my fader and added an amp and equalizer.
This system was designed to use minimum space in the trunk and still utilize the radio as the audio source for everything.

Starting with removing the fader:

The fader is 5 watts and a fairly useless makeshift method of doing fades. It won't support the existing system wattage and it sure as hell won't support higher wattages.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Here are the two jacks (front black male pins and rear white male pins speakers) and one plug (radio output, white female connector) with the fader harness removed.

These three connectors are part of the Honda harness.

4 pins each... two for the left side and two for the right side in each connector.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Take the fader harness to make a jumper because we are going to use the bike's own wiring to send the radio output to the rear speaker housings where we can pick it up and send it to the amp in the trunk without making any cuts or mods to the bike wiring. From there we will bridge it to a new wire to take it into the trunk for the new audio system.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Solder the wires pin for pin between the two connectors. Never mind the color changes. We are looking for pin to pin pass through.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Stick it in the connectors so that the black connector is used for the rear speakers.
The radio output plug can only go in the right place. The front speaker wiring will be getting re-wired directly from the trunk amp with better wiring.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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So it goes here: The unused connector is the front speaker wiring which we will not be using because we will be adding beefier wire directly from the amp to the front speakers and not using the much thinner wire in the harness anymore for that.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Put in some fresh wires for the front speakers from the trunk power amp. If you are smart, you will use the slitted plastic duct conduit wherever you want things not rubbing through to the frame like amp outputs and +12 power wires.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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And once you get that beefy wiring up there, you might as well put in some decent speakers, otherwise what's the point of all this?
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Do some wiring for the rear speakers and pick up the radio output from there too with another small wire as it won't be handling much audio power anymore. (Pioneers in there) Do both sides. Basically, your rear speakers get new beefier wire from the amp and the speaker box acts as a simple junction box to extend the original wiring (now carrying the radio output) so you can get it to the amp inputs.
So what you have in the picture is on the left side is the black jacket of the original speaker wires going into the speaker box, the gray cable is the same speaker wiring coming back out of the box and going to the amp input and the clear/red one is the new wiring that now goes to the speaker from the amp output for that channel.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Now for the power:
I run two separate 10 gauge, 30 amp fused pairs +12 and Gnd direct to the battery) of wires to the front of the bike for lights, horns, gerbings, lighters, GPS and voltmeter and to the rear for the amp, eq, trunk lighters, and rear gerbings. See how to do that in the link in my sig, below. Here is a shot of the rear wires entering the rear box. All are fused as a 30 amp main and then sub-fused for each device. Notice that enters the box at the bottom then travels across to the other-side under a ridge that protects it and causes no loss of space.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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There is a 40 amp relay at the back and under the front left fairing pocket which are driven directly by the aux power 5 amp fuse in the fuse block. This gives me 30 amps front and 30 amps rear separately switched from the aux panel. No other loads are ever put directly on the aux terminals, just the two relay coils.

This gives me both high current switched and raw power front and back. Add ons are no sweat after that. Sorry for the pix quality. As I mentioned above, I now have a page on my site for distributing power through your bike without loading the existing system. It is in the link in my sig, below.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Finally ready to deal with the big stuff. I really didn't want to lose the front-to- back space in my rear box so I decided to mount the amp on the side divider bridged with the equalizer and line impedence adapter. I need my computer and helmet space.
The amp was $40 ebay and the equalizer was $24 ebay. The stereo impedence adapter was $20 circuit city. Note the equalizer mounts made out of some modded curtain rod hanger brackets I swiped from the wife's stash. Hey it's a team effort isn't it? How about the green garden hose halves used to shock mount the amp and force it forward so it can't get loose.... no screws mount any of the amp, eq or line in converter. It all lifts out saddled on that space divider. :weightlifter::skipping::cooler:
 

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