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on my 1979 bone stocker. I have an extra pair of 55w driving lights lying about, but I am wondering if some 35w or less would be better. I really believe in extra lighting for safety.

Any advice?
 

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You might get better results with a headlight modulator, they don't add much electrical load on your charging system and are really much more effective in being seen. Atnight they automatically shut off and leave the headlight at normal brilliance. You aren't going to get that much more notice at night with a couple additional lights anyway, if they can't see your headlight at night the smaller driving lights won't make much difference. Federal law has made modulators legal in all states for motorcycles. They really get attention, a lot of people think you're a cop.
 

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I'd agree with Paul on that modulator because the 79 Wing had marginal output from the alternator. Somewhere on the internet there's even a DIY kit that shows you how to build the modulator for less than $25., but, I'll be darned if I can find it right now.

Vic
 

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I've seen a few bikes around here with headlight modulators and think when I have a buck or two I'm going to put one on my bike. They really make a bike visible. Perhaps I should spray my helmet white, I'll bet that will get them out of my way!
 

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The charging system on the GL1000 won't keep up with two 55w light. If you really want them, fit tow 35w lights instead and the stator will have a better chance of keeping up. Fit a switch also so you can turn them off in slow town riding.
 

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sanfelice wrote:
on my 1979 bone stocker. I have an extra pair of 55w driving lights lying about, but I am wondering if some 35w or less would be better. I really believe in extra lighting for safety.
sanfelice, I don't have any specs handy on the 79 Wing charging system but it would be marginal at best. The 1200 is only 360 watts & that was improved over the 1100, so your 79 would be below that even.

I doubt that even a pair of 35 watters would work full time. Maybe would beOK at cruising speed.

I'm about to install a set of 35 watters on my 1200 but am going to use a small double throw relay to allow them to run in series as running lamps (that's 17.5 watts per light) then have the relay swap the inputs & one ground when energised to allow full output for passing & at high speeds at night.

I did a similar setup on a Harley a few years ago & it worked great as I had the additional low power frontal lighting for better daytime safety then high light output when needed for high speed twisty road running.

Twisty
 

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Goldwinger1984 wrote:
Somewhere on the internet there's even a DIY kit that shows you how to build the modulator for less than $25., but, I'll be darned if I can find it right now.

Vic, is this the one you are talking about?



Twisty
 

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I have had the Sig. Dynamics DiamondStar on my bike for a year and really like it's flexibility. There's a feature that allows the headlight to deeply modulate for 3 seconds day or night when you honk your horn. Also, a setting where only on high beam does it modulate(it may be a bit slow to meet DOT specs) and a setting where the light modulates on both low and high beam. The installation is straight forward and easy to follow.

Combined with my airhorns/stock horns comboI can really REALLY get someone's attention. I've seen people start to pull out and then stop because they see me.

Hobie
 

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years ago on my '78 I put on one of those air horn set-ups... now THAT got peoples attention, however it was a pain to maintain so it went by the way. However, there is now something wrong with my horn switch and the horn just wants to stay on. Anyone else had this problem with the switch?
 

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Not unless you want to replace your stator. 300 watt output from the gl1000 and 1100. First thing I did with any of my wings is put a voltmeter on it. I like the one from Kuryakyn. That'll tell you how much everything is drawing. You might want to stick with modulators (may shorten life of bulb) and reflectors.
 
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exavid wrote:
I've seen a few bikes around here with headlight modulators and think when I have a buck or two I'm going to put one on my bike. They really make a bike visible. Perhaps I should spray my helmet white, I'll bet that will get them out of my way!
Hey exavid :waving:What about your neighbours, get them to chip in. :clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 
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rcmatt007 wrote:
However, there is now something wrong with my horn switch and the horn just wants to stay on.
Hey rcmatt007 :waving: Thats what i call a huge problem. :whip:

:walker::18red::walker:
 
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Hey Davebave :waving: Welcome to the forum. :clapper:I hope you enjoy the banter that takes place here. :grinner:

:skipping::18red::skipping:
 

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Davebave wrote:
Not unless you want to replace your stator. 300 watt output from the gl1000 and 1100. First thing I did with any of my wings is put a voltmeter on it. I like the one from Kuryakyn. That'll tell you how much everything is drawing. You might want to stick with modulators (may shorten life of bulb) and reflectors.
I don't think the newer designs will shorten bulb life much, they don't turn the bulb off, just vary the current somewhere around 50% this way the filament doesn't flex near as much as it will going full on and off.
 

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sanfelice wrote:
on my 1979 bone stocker. I have an extra pair of 55w driving lights lying about, but I am wondering if some 35w or less would be better. I really believe in extra lighting for safety.

Any advice?
I came across this info courtesy of Zryder's link on the Back Yard Built Goldwings Bar and Grille it pretty well outlines the power budget for the 1000 and 1100:

The following article submitted by Chris Olson on Dec 03, 1999
Guidelines For Installing Aftermarket Electrical Accessories
The charging system in the GL1000 and GL1100 models is capable of delivering 20 amps. The GL1200 models (except SE-i and Lmtd) will deliver a maximum of 24 amps. I have tested the individual circuits on a GL1100, and the following guide can be used to calculate electrical loads when hooking up extra lights, trailers, etc..

Amp draw of individual circuits:
Headlight 5.0 amps (high beam)
Tail and dash lighting 3.8 amps
Ignition system 1.3 amps
Fuel pump 1.2 amps (GL1200 only)
Stereo/audio system 1.0 amp
Battery 1.5 amps
The GL1100 I tested was equipped with accessory clearance/running/tail lighting which draws 3.4 amps and auxiliary driving lights which draw 7.0 amps. It's important to always allow 1.5 amps to keep the battery charged. Even though the GL1000/1100 system will deliver 20 amps, it won't maintain voltage at the regulated level of 14.7 VDC if total electrical load is equal to max charging system output. Normal load on a GL1000/1100 is 12.6 amps; a GL1200 is 13.8 amps. Theoretically this would leave 7.4 amps reserve on the 1000/1100 and 10.2 amp reserve on the 1200. However, these charging systems are rated at 5000 rpm. At slower cruise speeds they put out less than maximum power. The GL1100, for instance, puts out ~17.0 amps at 3800-4200 rpm. That leaves only 4.4 amp reserve. If we turn on the aux running lights (3.4 amps) the charging system is close to maxed out. If we turn on the driving lights, the charging system won't be able to keep the battery charged - and system voltage will start to drop. It' very important to install a voltmeter on your bike to monitor system voltage at all times when running extra electricals. You can safely add electrical load as long as the system voltage remains at ~13.0 VDC or higher. When the system operates at a voltage lower than 13.0 the battery will slowly discharge.
 

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Of course, another option is to change some of the other lights for L.E.D.'s

Such as indicators, stop/tail,especially if you have the 4 light setup,which, with lights on, draws in excess of 159w (13.25amps(14amps main beam)) when braking, to reduce the loading then fit the 35W aux lamps and still have spare capacity for your extras.
 
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