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How do I determine if I am able to add additional lights to my bike? At what point am I runnng too many after-market lights on my GL1100?

I have always heard about peoplewho have added lights and had problems. I am currently running all thestock GW electrical stuff andan aftermarket cassette/radio (after removing the stock Honda radio). I also have4 small side marker lights and a Phillips halogen bulb. I want to add 2 front lights for add visibility (people seeing me!, not necessarily better "night-sight"). It's easy tosee the BMW's and the Harleys with the extra headlights and hope to add 2 more lights near the present headlight.

Maybe more lights might keep the "I really can't drive" crowd from pulling in front of me. Anyone added more lights? Bad experience :(? Good experience :D?

THANKS!!
 

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The 83 GL1100 can't run too much extra stuff without draining the battery when you are stopped in trafic at idle.

If you change the tail lights to LED bulbs that will save a lot of wattage as the LED bulbs use next to nothing in terms of power.

I have a set of fog lights on my GL1100 and if I am stopped in traffic it will tend to drain the battery a bit.

I would like to find LED replacements for my front marker/turnsignal lights. I already have LED tail lights.

Good luck with it.

Ed
 

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Here is an article I found that may help you.
The following article submitted by Chris Olson on Dec 03, 1999
Guidelines For Installing Aftermarket Electrical Accessories
The charging system in the GL1000 and GL1100 models is capable of delivering 20 amps. The GL1200 models (except SE-i and Lmtd) will deliver a maximum of 24 amps. I have tested the individual circuits on a GL1100, and the following guide can be used to calculate electrical loads when hooking up extra lights, trailers, etc..

Amp draw of individual circuits:
Headlight 5.0 amps (high beam)
Tail and dash lighting 3.8 amps
Ignition system 1.3 amps
Fuel pump 1.2 amps (GL1200 only)
Stereo/audio system 1.0 amp
Battery 1.5 amps

The GL1100 I tested was equipped with accessory clearance/running/tail lighting which draws 3.4 amps and auxiliary driving lights which draw 7.0 amps. It's important to always allow 1.5 amps to keep the battery charged. Even though the GL1000/1100 system will deliver 20 amps, it won't maintain voltage at the regulated level of 14.7 VDC if total electrical load is equal to max charging system output. Normal load on a GL1000/1100 is 12.6 amps; a GL1200 is 13.8 amps. Theoretically this would leave 7.4 amps reserve on the 1000/1100 and 10.2 amp reserve on the 1200. However, these charging systems are rated at 5000 rpm. At slower cruise speeds they put out less than maximum power. The GL1100, for instance, puts out ~17.0 amps at 3800-4200 rpm. That leaves only 4.4 amp reserve. If we turn on the aux running lights (3.4 amps) the charging system is close to maxed out. If we turn on the driving lights, the charging system won't be able to keep the battery charged - and system voltage will start to drop. It' very important to install a voltmeter on your bike to monitor system voltage at all times when running extra electricals. You can safely add electrical load as long as the system voltage remains at ~13.0 VDC or higher. When the system operates at a voltage lower than 13.0 the battery will slowly discharge.
 

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I am planning to add a headlight modulator by diamond.
This has some good option on it.I have a lower and upper running light bar on the rear with 2 of the lights on the rear lower light bar that is set up as brake flashers( they flash when the main rear brake light is on).I would love to run a pair of fog lamps but I am afraid this will blow my alt. The light bar is on a switch so if I see my volts dropping too low in stop and start traffic I can turn them off.
 

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I, too run a headlight modulator made by Signal Dynamics. It seems to really get peoples attention. The mod. unit draws very little current to operate although I can't give an exact amount.

One thing to remember if you run a modulator: Turn it off if you're riding with a group as it can be annoying to them in close proximity. If you're the lead bike then it's o.k.

Hobie
 

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The gl1100 just won't take extra big lights. I've seen them with tow small 35watt spotlights and the bike wouldn't start after a run. Just isn't worth the trouble.
 

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you could try looking at www.superbrightleds.com for a variety of led bulbs for just about anything.

I used them to convert 44 glass bulbs that were in the chrome of a GL1000 that my fatherinlaw gave me. I really dont think he ever turned the bumper on much, he had a seperate switch. If he had I dont think he would have ever got it started after a ride either. each glass bulb drew about a 1/4 amp giving around 11-12 amps of draw when it was on.

I used direct replacement LED's from superbrightleds and got it down to an an amp or two. The LED's were something like 25 milliamps per bulb, a ten fold power savings. Havent switched the tail light out yet.

Oh, and at night there is not a huge difference in visibility. I left one bulb in for comparison and side by side I could see a difference but for marker lights the diff was negligible.

bob
 

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Sylvania 9003 SilverStar Headlight
High Performance Halogen Headlight - Dual filament for both high beam and low beam - part number: 9003ST Low 910 +/- 10%; High 1500 +/- 10% Low 55; High 60 ~4000K


This is the headlight bulb I am currently running. Everything seems to be OK, but have not tested the charging system with a voltmeter. Has anyone else had experience with running a brighter/hotter bulb? Will it burn up the wires or catch the bike on fire?


Maybe the lights the LA cops use on the helicopters could stop people from saying, "but I just didn't see you!"

 

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That bulb will be fine. It' still a 55/60w bulb so the draw on the battery is the same. It's teh current being drawn through the switch & bulbholder that generates the heat so you will be fine as the draw will be the same with the 9003 bulb, even though it's a 4 filament bulb.
 

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Can I safely run anything hotter than the 55/60w bulb?

J
 

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Wish I had seen this thread earlier. I recently installed a 80/100 watt headlight, an aftermarket radio, and fog lights. I have notice that after some ride it appears as if the starter is dragging, but I now think the battery must be getting low. My have to make some changes.



Billy
 

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I added a battery tender. I mounted it in the left saddlebag and "plug the bike in" when it's in the garage - summer and winter.
 
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