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Disfunctional Nimatode
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Ona couple of repairs that I have made. I have run into bolts that just don't want to back out of the aluminum block. Was replacing the water pump the other day, and wouldn't you know it........ ONE bolt refused to cooperate. I tried heating it with a torch, tightening first, soaking with penetrating oil, rapping on the end of it. Nothing seemed to help. I ended up snapping the bad boy off. I drilled it out and tried a "easy out" to no avail. I was lucky it was a bolt that I could drill completely out and installed a longer bolt with a nut on the back side to re-secure it. So, my question is....... what do others do to try and keep from snapping these steel bolts that are stuck in aluminum threads?



Thank you in advance for your input.



Dabear
 

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Most of the time an impact wrench works well for removing bolts. The vibration aids in loosening. I wouldn't use one for tightening them up too risky with aluminum.

When you put a new bolt in there are some coatings you can put on the threads that will make it easier when it's time to remove the bold.
 

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Dissimilar metals will do this over time. In this case steel and aluminum. Unfortunately the only real answer is prevention with anti-seize compound available at most auto parts stores.. Just a light film is needed. But it must be applied when fasteners are lose or free.
With old steel fasteners in aluminum.... it looks like you did about all that can be done to break them lose. However, the penetrating oil can sometimes still do the trick..... if you are willing to let the fastener soak for days, weeks or even months. The older the bound fastener, the longer the soak.
One trick for a side fastener is to use tape and body filler to make a cup around the bolt, and easily removed later. This way the cup can be filled with good penetrating oil and let to soak for long peroids without having to re-apply the penetrant.
 

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corventure wrote:
Dissimilar metals will do this over time. In this case steel and aluminum. Unfortunately the only real answer is prevention with anti-seize compound available at most auto parts stores.. Just a light film is needed. But it must be applied when fasteners are lose or free.
With old steel fasteners in aluminum.... it looks like you did about all that can be done to break them lose. However, the penetrating oil can sometimes still do the trick..... if you are willing to let the fastener soak for days, weeks or even months. The older the bound fastener, the longer the soak.
One trick for a side fastener is to use tape and body filler to make a cup around the bolt, and easily removed later. This way the cup can be filled with good penetrating oil and let to soak for long peroids without having to re-apply the penetrant.
Thanks corventure! That is a trick I hadn't thought of.
 

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Its always a problem with 2 difernet metals and the longer they are in the more siezed they become, penetrating fluid can sometimes helps as stated, but a lot of times its what you have had to do, impact wrench or driver can help.

Not sure what you use over there but we use stuff called copper slip, dip the bolt thead in it before assembling, great for things like the hex head fasterners on the undercowls on 1800s for example
 

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Also if you do get the screw or bolt to move and it starts to get tighter, then stop and go back to the tightening direction. Many times the dis-similar metal corrosion will create galling in the threads. Working it back and forth while applying penetrant will often work.
 

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i use aerokroil, excellent pen. oil not avail. everywhere just do web search, truly best i,ve used. impact set low increase slowly all good ideas, one thing hadn't seen mentioned is heli coil to repair damaged threads to original size. always anti seize in pinch can even use bar soap.
 
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