After Seafoam in Gas 1200 burns oil on startup

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Specific Gravity...
The longer it sits, the more smoke you'll get.

...maybe, maybe not.



[align=center]Specific Gravity of:[/align]
[align=center]Regular Unleaded Gasoline: .739[/align]
[align=center]Seafoam per MSDS: .819[/align]
[align=center]Seafoam base ingrediants per MSDS:[/align]
[align=center]Pale Oil: .942[/align]
[align=center]Naptha: .667[/align]
[align=center]IPA (Isopropanol): .786[/align]

[align=left]... and of course the ring issue.[/align]

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Thanks for all the help but please don't stop.

Re: oil seepage past rings. OK, I can buy that. The wild card is that this happens at random. This morning there was no blue smoke. Yesterday there was.

Also the blue smoke comes out of both pipes.

It there also the likelihood that some of the sea foam sits at the bottom of the gas tank and is slowly leaving the bike?

I don't think VT has made that switch on gas yet. I also buy gas in Mass. I try to stick with Mobil 87 proof (octane). I will look into it. Would that account for a 15% mileage loss?

Is it likely that some varnish was removed by the Seafoam changing the jet opening?

Thanks again,
VTBikeman

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Questions:
1) Is this the first time you've done this (SeaFoam or otherwise)?
2) What's the odometer reading on your bike?


The point I'm getting at is:
Something led you to do this "for the hell of it"... be it performance, mileage, wives-tale, what-have-you...

With varnish build-up, over time small and slight performance changes can happen that are not easily evident to a rider. Then something clicks and, "maybe I'll try this"...

Removing years worth of build-up can have many affects positive and negative.
A positive would be that now your fuel system is ready for a good syncing. A negative would be that all that removed varnish and other deposits are no longer providing the sealing surfaces your engine has grown to love. One of SeaFoams claims-to-fame is that it dissolves fuel varnish residues that attract petroleum carbonized deposits.

So, I would say that your carbs are probably cleaner. Rings, valves, and passage-ways are probably cleaner. And depending on the crankshafts position at engine shut-off, left-bank cylinders may or may not have oil seepage issues that it did not have before.

A compression check before treatment (or at least having figures from a somewhat recent check) would be beneficial in a comparison of a check today. Having compression checks and watching vacuum before and after will show all what SeaFoam (and some others) can do.

Remove and clean plugs, sync the carbs, and do a compression test.
I would assume shes sounds just a little bit different somewhere within her noises.

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Thanks, Captain Midnight. I really appreciate the generous effort members put into solving problems that aren't their own. If you ever need HI-End audio advice don't hesitate to sound me.

Yes, first time with Sea Foam.

The bike has 32K, about 1,500 mine, and the previous-previous owner put new carbs on about 2 years ago, I was told by the previous owner, but they were not sync'd. Both guys are engineering/tech types so I am taking them at their word.

My desire to use Seafoam came from the posts that said wonderful things about it and knowing that I would sync the carbs soon I wanted them to be clean. Also I might squeeze a few more MPG's.

Just so I am understanding this correctly, Seafoam in the gas will clean valve guides, and rings? Maybe I was better off with the varnish deposits. I do notice the oil is blacker than before. It is due for a change, I think.

Should I go the whole 9 yards and do an SF oil cleaning, too?
What is the risk and what is the reward?
MM or Sea Foam?

My guy in Brattleboro, VT, Stan Lynde of Lynde Motorsports, will do a sync next week when I return from a biz trip.

Again, much appreciation for everyone's time and expertise.

VTBikeman

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Anytime I purchase another used bike, I flush and clean everything using fresh filters.
I see no downside in doing so, as you end up knowing that everything is as clean and fresh as you can get it. I've gone so far as to send out for oil analysis.
I would flush the motor. I'm not discounting your P/Os efforts, but starting with a fresh set of fluids ina freshly flushed engine can only beof benefit. You know what you have in the end.

SeaFoam says: 1/3 in the carbs (airbox in our case), 1/3 in the tank and a 1/3 in the crankcase... though everybody has their own formulas.

I've used all kinds of stuff over the years. Some fluids are a staple in my garage, and this is one, along with PB and many others. I like to experiment with them, but as is, SF is a good all around chem.



PS - My B&O 8000 stuff is like aBulova/Timex combo.... takes a licking but ticks in style.