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Hi, I need to ask youchaps for an advice. My GL1000 is awaiting for the new float valveswithher carbs off.Yesterday I got a specialVisa Internetcard from my bank so now I can purchase from ebay. I have no way to get the OEM valves so I will have to buy aftermarket ones. I found two noticable offers at ebay. One is some guy from New Zeland who manufactures the carb parts for different bikes. He has the GL1000 float valves as well. The other is an old NAPCO GL1000 carb kit that includes the float valves together with the jets, gaskes, etc. I asked them both about the problems with the aftermarket float valves for GL1000s that I am aware of, but they both claimed that their valves are good as far as they know. The guy from NZclaimedthat there is a GL1000servicer inUS who buys the float valves from him. The other seller that sellsNAPCO kits says that these are the old kits, made years agoand made right.The prices are similar. So now I should purchase one of these two kits and Ican't decide which one!Any help?

Thanks
 

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if they are both claiming good vales --ask about returns problems and go with the best one. thats just me.
 

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I seem to remember in Randakk's site a reference to old carb kits as having the bad float needles and some of the newer ones have gotten better..but he still recommends OEM.

VALVE SET, FLOAT
16011-679-005 004 $35.42 includes the whole set up screen etc. times 4!!! ain't cheap

http://www.hdlparts.com

or German Co..

http://www.motorradbay.de/main/honda.php?kat=honda&best_nr=&modell=1100

or here

http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm click gl1000 primary jets and scroll down a ways..to float needles $6.95 each///
 

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Thanks!

RB, hdl parts won't ship outside US, while crc2 only have a float needles and I would like to change thecomplete valves, together with the seats. Germans do have the complete valves but still I eventuallypurchased the valves and bowl gaskets from the guy in NZ on ebayas the price was much lower then German one(it will cost me about 56USD all together valves and gasketswith shipping). I remember as well thatRandakk mentioned thatthe older kits had the bad needles, that's why I asked you chaps to confirm it. And that's the main reason why I eventually chose the NZ manufacturer instead of that old Napco kit. Thanks a lot for the help!
 

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Crescent Moon will get OEM's for you and ship them oversea's. Send Susan a Email and explain the situation and she will hook you up. http://www.crescentmoonunlimited.com/
 

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Whiskerfish wrote:
Crescent Moon will get OEM's for you and ship them oversea's. Send Susan a Email and explain the situation and she will hook you up. http://www.crescentmoonunlimited.com/
Thanks, but I alredy purchased the aftermarket floatvalves and gaskets from the New Zeland manufacturer. I hope they will be fine, as he said there isa GL1000 servicer in USA who buys valves from him. Anyway I willbareCrescent Moon on my mind for the further situations! Thanks a lot for the info!
 

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One thing I used do when I was rebuilding 'Wing carbs in my shop was to bench test the float valves. Just hook up a small can of fuel to the carb and hang it a couple feet above the carburetor after you get the carbs ready to install. If fuel runs out of the carb onto the bench you'll have a lot less work to correct the problem than if you've already put the carbs back in the bike. I replaced the float valves in a carb job I did for a fellow who insisted I use some aftermarket needles and seats he had. They were new and still in the package. No matter what I did, including polishing the needle seats I couldn't stop them from leaking when set to the factory float height. I ended up deliberately setting the floats a bit high. It apparently took a little extra pressure for the needle to shut off fuel flow. I informed the owner and he was happy with that as long as the bike ran okay which it did. I think the fuel level in the bowl must have been about the same with the floats submerged a bit more than normal so it worked out but I wouldn't guarantee they wouldn't begin to leak in the future. The cheapo owner accepted the work on that basis.
 

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Well, the first time when I was replacing the carbs back on thebikeafter rebuilding them I didn't pre-check them anyhow, I was just sure that I've done everything correctly (the float levels were adjusted at exactly 21mm). However when I started the bike it died within few seconds and the nightmare was there - plenum overflowed with petrol:shock:. After few minutes of helplesscursing I removed the carbs off again and did the test you described. The fuel was pouring out through all the intake pipes just like there was no any valves at all. I removed the floatbowls and adjusted levels to 23mm, to shut the fuel earlier. Tested with the hanging fuel can and was happy to see that nothing leaks! Replaced the carbs back on the bike, started the engine, rode a few miles, synced the carbs, everything ok no leaking. After a few days I started the engine to ride a little, everything seemed to be good. Aftera few miles while staying at thetraffic light the engine suddenly started to die. When removed the air filter I saw the nightmare again- the plenum overflowed :X! So the carbs wentout again (after much more cursing), I removed the float valves and, I think, discovered the problem. The needles seem to have too much free space inside the seats, so sometimesthey go all the way up and shut the fuel, but sometimesthey stick before manage to shut the fuel. And by the way there wasn't anymarks on the current valve seats so theywere probably aftermarket as well.

I just hope these new ones will work! And yes, I will certainlyuse the hanging can test every time I work anything on the carbs in future!

Thanks for all the advices!
 
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