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Hey all, :waving:hope everyone arrived in the new year safely. Firstly I want to say thanks for the info on the headset question(Goldwings 4 ever & Ozarkryder). Took your advice, found a set on ebay. Tanoy, radio, everything works great.

:bowing:

Next question is: does anyone have any information on an alarm called "Tri-State TRS 200". It was fitted to my bike when I bought it but can't get it to operate correctly. There is a small key that turns the alarm on (locates at the top of the unit) but when I use the key the alarm sounds after about five seconds. I can't get the alarm to stop even if I use the remote. It only stops when I switch it off again using the key. Searched all over the net and can't find any info on this alarm. Is it goosed or am doing something wrong?

:headbanger:

Cheers
 

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It probably has some kind of motion sensor on it somewhere that has to be level. Have you tried it on the center stand?
 

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Hi Bongo, I found what looks like a business that handles that alarm product. I don't know if you have tried it, as I looked on Google for it. Tri-State Alarm Systems

PO Box 357. Chippenham, Wiltshire. SN15 3ZW Telephone: 01249 464650
Fax: 01249 445414. I hope this is the right place for you. Let us know. Good luck. :waving: :)
 

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Good Morning Bongo,

I just read your post. Although I cannot comment on your particular alarm, I can give a bit of in-site into how it *may* work. You can try to track things down from that point.

Most alarms, when when "ARMED", have a count down delay of some sort. Your 5 second delay seems to be that. It gives a chance for the people to "exit", it this case for the bike to settle down. Once the delay is over, the alarm circuit starts scanning the inputs :IE the motion sensor, the power monitor, the ignition switch, seat switch, etc. This is probably where you problem lies. If it finds one of the inputs engaged, it will sound the alarm.

So this is what I would do.

1) First thing, check the batteries in the remote. This may be the reason why the remote is not working. It would be unlikely that bad batteries would set off the alarm, unless the "Panic" code is being sent from the remote as a stuck button or weak battery (if it had a panic feature).

2) Grounds. Make sure the the control module has a good ground. A "looks good" ground may be enough to let the control module power up but when it comes to using it as a reference point for the sensors, it may be too "Noisy" of a connection. 90% of people do not make a good ground when installing things like this.

3) Motion Sensor. There are several types. Some are in the control module and some are external. The two main types are

A)A lead weight on a spring arm. This can get caught up on its self if given a big enough jar... such as a Big Bad Bump like dumping the bike or a bad pot hole or even moving the bike up/down a sever incline/decline roughly. When working properly it may sound like a quite "boink boink" inside. Test it by a putting a continuity monitor across the leads that come from it. There should only be 2 wires. Make sure the whole alarm system has the power killed to it.

B) A ball bearing type. This will be an external device the will be square little box that will have a mounting bracket on it so that when it is properly mounted that it is level. The idea here is that the ball bearing moves around inside when the sensor is moved and will trigger the alarm. It should rattle when shaken... like a spray paint can. This will be an electronic device and will have 3 wires come from it. 1)Power (check the in-line fuse that should be there). Make sure the unit is getting 12v. 2) Ground. Make sure it is a good ground. 3) Sensor out. This is the trigger back to the alarm control.

4) Power monitoring. Some alarms monitor the battery for the vehicle. If it drops below a certain level (lights come on, engine starts cranking etc.) the alarm will sound. If you have a weak battery or a poor ground, this could be a problem.

5) Switches. There may be a seat switch, kick stand switch, neutral switch or a bunch of others. Check them out. CHECK THEIR GROUNDS!!!

In short, regardless of how you approach the testing, you will have to trace wires from the control to each sensor. You will find the problem there I am sure. Your unit "counts" down its "exit" delay so it looks like that may be working.

Oh yeah, did I mention GROUNDS??? Just want you to to know that most people don't do them right (yes I said it before) but on a bike they are exposed to the elements more than a car and will mess up quicker.

Let me know how you make out.

Tim.

P.S. - check the grounds!!
 

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Hey Tim, thanks for the detailed fault finding. I'm in the middle of trying to fit my new kitched ('cause the missus says it's more important :cheeky1:) .

Anyway, whenever I get back to it I'll run through some of your pointers.



Adios
 
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