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I know this has been on the forums before and I have spent sometime looking but for the life of me I cant find the thread.

I am needing to replace the brushes in my alternator. And if my memory serves me correctly I think NAPA sells them but I dont have the part number. Does anyone remeber what that would be?
 

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would the honda part no help as a cross referance 31101-mn5-005
 

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That might I will try and give that to them tomorrow Thanks
 

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NAPA part that can fit is the Echlin E480. These Echlin brushes will not have the reassembly pin hole drilled (you WILL wanna add that) and will also be shaped a bit differently on the wear face, the OEM brushes have the commutator wear shaping pre-cut a bit off center (the Echlin E480 brushes are shaped more "centered" - usually not an issue, but initial current may be reduced while these seat; a good refinishing job on the slip rings will help the new brushes to seat well.)

While you're in the alternator, the rear bearing can be done with a NSK-6000du or SKF-6000-RS1 (10mmx26mmx8mm double-sealed)

Always (as posted all over this forum) the rubber dampers ought'a be given a good look and/or replaced as long as you're having at it. ;)
 

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I have aquired a Compufire alternator and I just installed it and it charges at 14,78 at the alternator but at the battery it is only 13.7 volts any idea why the voltage drop and would it hurt for me to wire straight to the batter from the alternator for a full 14 volts? Oh and the end bearing is making noise is it the same as the factory alternator bearing?

Thanks for everyones help
 

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There is nothing wrong with that dont forget the battery is drawing power to charge it plus with lights ect on it will drop a little when you are out riding and the rpms go up it will hit the 14.2
 

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-- as above..

, and the OEM harness has a 55A dogbone fuse between the battery and alternator output (which should be sized appropriately for the alternator's output if you hope to charge your battery at the alternator's rated output).

Personally, I recommend changing the harness from the alternator to the battery as you're thinking. Use heavier gauge wire and change the Dogbone fuse for something more easily replaced (and less fragile).


The PAL long leg fuse series ( "FLB" ) can be retro-fitted into the dogbone's old holder... (FWIW, the 60A fuse will hold 60A all day, & blows at 120A and is a good choice for Compufire installs, IMHO). JCASE ( "FMX" ) is another option, but I find the PAL ( "FLB" ) fuses easier to find in the correct size.

The output from the alternator does runs through that dogbone for the battery, AND also runs directly to the OEM fuse-panel - changing this fusebox feed wire is kinda a booger as it's spliced to the alternator-to-dogbone wire and crimped/bundled in with the rest of the harness running to the fusebox.

Upgrading the alt-to-battery (including some sort of appropriate fuse) wire is a good thing, then you can add load at the battery side of the circuit and leave the OEM load (and alt-to-fusebox) wiring unmolested.


A couple of thoughts that came to mind:

* To increase the current handling of the Alt-to-Battery harness, you can simply ADD an additional wires in parallel with the factory wires. I used 8-AWG here though 10 or 12 would prolly be more than adequate (ensure that the wire you choose is good for vibration, heat, and oil) This'll save you from having to deal with cutting the OEM Alternator output harness to replace the alt-to-dogbone wire length.

* pwhoever presents the PAL / FLB fuse approach quite well inTHIS LINKED THREAD .

* A red 50A PAL fues will hold at 50 and blow at 100 and the 70A in pwhoever's post is a brown one (blows at 140A)... Take a look at the "fusible Link" section of your local autoparts store to see what can be commonly found in your area
 

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Thanks for that info.. It makes sense and is a done deal. After I repaired the bearing in the Compufire Alt last night, I was looking into some things and what I had found out was the voltage at the lower part of the dogbone fuse was at 14.8 volts the same as at the alternator. But at the top of the dog bone it had dropped to 13.35 volts.... Hmmmm didnt take a rocket scientist to figure out the point of resistance. I replaced the dogbone with a inline fuse like you are talking about and now I have 14.78 at the battery.
 
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