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Village Whack Job...
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Yeah I alreayd know that it measures the push or draw of amps. But my question is how is that information aplied. Lets say thet meter is reading ten amps draw. What does that tell me? How does that information benefit me?

I know in order to get a readin gof the entire system I need to put in line (series) with the dog boe fuse. Or int he case of my Wing the blade fuse I replaced that dog bone with.

I'm assuming it will read in the green (push) if charging and in the red (draw) if not. Is this correct?
 

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The amperage meter is an interesting piece that provides you with good info "while the battery is charging".

Other than that, it is quite ambiguous. Why?

Because it either means the battery is fully charged and not requiring any current,

or,

the battery is totally dead and won't accept a charge at all,

or,

The alternator/generator is dead and isn't putting out any current. In this case, it will generally show a discharge current depending on the load.

That is why the voltmeter came into popularity. It will actually inform you as to the state of the charging system.

Both together arm you with a lot more info.
 

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Village Whack Job...
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My intention is to install both.I already have both gauges and nice little chrome visors for them. I knew having both was a good idea. However I wasn't completely sure of what the ampere meter was actually going to tell me.

In an experiment in my basement, I hooked up the stereo in my cyclesound to a spare MC battery on my work bench. i did this through the amp meter. I had to turn the stereo up pretty loud to get the needle on the amp meter to move and it just barely jiggled into the red in time with the music.

And to be honest I didn't know any more after the experiment than I did when i started.

WHich was why i posted this question.
 

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An amp meter will show the actual draw on a system versus what it puts out. To me it's actually more useful than a volt meter. If you know the actual max output of your alternator or stator then the amp meter will help decide if you have too much of a load on the system faster than a volt meter will.

Installing an amp meter requires more knowledge and work versus a volt meter hence the more popular use of volt meters.
 

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Bagmaster wrote:
An amp meter will show the actual draw on a system versus what it puts out. To me it's actually more useful than a volt meter. If you know the actual max output of your alternator or stator then the amp meter will help decide if you have too much of a load on the system faster than a volt meter will.

Installing an amp meter requires more knowledge and work versus a volt meter hence the more popular use of volt meters.
Well like I siad I'm installing both. But I wanted to know...I guess i wanted to know how to interpret the amp meter reading.

As for the instalation requiring more work...doesn't seem like there would be more work invovled.

I jus thought of something though. The dogbone fuse. Is that circuit always hot? Or is it switched by the ignition?

If it always hot, will have te amp meter on that circuit create a drain when the bike isn't running?
 

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Volt meter versus amp meter??? To me that's an easy question as Bagmaster said both have different yet the same function....It's like all of the older cars had just a volt meter, then the auto manufactures when away from them and used "idiot" lights. Now most cars come with volt meters again??? Seemed that those "idiot" lights would burn the bulb out and when you did have a charging problem, guess what??? you had no idea until it either quit running or wouldn't start....My Jeep has a volt meter and it has just in the past few months let me know I had a charging problem...Without it I might have kept driving it not knowing I had a problem !!!! But for my money and a little extra time on my wing I'm considering both because of the number of extra lights I have added to it since I bought it....But this is for later on not right this minute....If and when I do put both of them on my wing they will be Stewart Warner gauges not the El Cheapos that Auto Quack sells..!!!!!

Claude....

Install them on a circuit that is only hot with the key on.....
 

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In order to use the amp meter you will need wires heavy enough to support the complete load of the system to and from the amp meter

With a volt meter it gives you sufficient information about the system without those contraints
 

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tricky wrote:
In order to use the amp meter you will need wires heavy enough to support the complete load of the system to and from the amp meter

With a volt meter it gives you sufficient information about the system without those contraints
Correct, and most regular folks don't know that it goes in series with the alt output instead of parrellel like the volt meter does.
 

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Village Whack Job...
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Well i know it goes in series. And I already have both meters and intend to install both. I figure it can't hurt anything and may just help me monitor the charging system. Which is a bit if a concern becasause I'm going to be putting in an aftermarket stator and Iwant to know what it;s doing and I want as much warning as possible if it starts to fail.

I still need to know if the main dog bone fuse circuit is always hot or if it is switched by the ignition. I guess I could just put a meter on it and see...how ever my Wing is in my garage which is about a twenty minute drive form my house and i won't be over there before to morro or maybe even friday.
 

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Looking at the wiring diagram it appears it's not hot till the switch is on.
 

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I still need to know if the main dog bone fuse circuit is always hot or if it is switched by the ignition. I guess I could just put a meter on it and see...how ever my Wing is in my garage which is about a twenty minute drive form my house and i won't be over there before to morro or maybe even friday.
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It depends on where you put the ammeter, it can be used to see flow coming or going so it is useful in many designs telling you how much current is flowing and in what direction, even if you have a zero center meter.

Dog bone is primary circuit and is live when bike is on, all current used on any part of the bike flows through this fuse, the circuits get sub divided by other smaller amp fuses and this dog bone is to protect the wiring from the 2 sources of power, battery and alternator. Placing the meter tells you what current is flowing in that particular wire, so if you want current flow for the whole system, put it on the wires from the main fuse.

If your amp gauge is direct hook up and uni directional it must be installed + to + and it has a total load of current, do not exceed that load limit. If it is zero centered keep the flow to match the + and - so when current flows in the right direction it indicates a + flow. An ammeter with a shunt actually carries little current but is a micro volt meter and measures the volts at the shunt, allowing you to measure large amounts of flow.

You could also mount an AC meter and tie into the 3 yellow AC wires, but the use of 3 AC volt meters or switching arrangements and a single AC meter could be used. It all depends on what you want to monitor.
 

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I basically want to monitor the draw of the entire system. it is a zero centered ammeter. Which means B terminal goes toward the battery and L terminal goes toward the fuse box. I just have to figure out which direction the current flows. What I will doto determin that is to remover the dogbone fuse, turn the key on and see which side is hot. that will be battery side. I can connect the volt meter at the acc terminals.

I'm thinking that optimally the ammeter will read either zero or just slightly in the green (push) side of it's range. Is this correct?
 

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Go for it, if wrong change the connection because it is zero centered you can't damage the needle. As the current flows the needle will be right of zero or center, convention indicates right side is positive flow or current being sent from the source. But it is your bike and you can have it any way you want it.

Your system is 12 V 30 Amps, can the meter take 30 amps? If so your good.
 

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According to the diagram power goes from the battery to the positive side of the starter solenoid where the feed to the ignition switch comes from with the dogbone fuse. It will appear hot if checked at that point straight to ground, if checked on the other side of the ignition switch then it will be closed with the switch in the off position. Therefore you do a break of the line just past the dogbone fuse to install the amp meter. The meter shouldn't show anything but zero when the switch is off this way.
 

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What about putting in in line with the fuse. I've replaced the dogbone with a blade type fuse holder. Would it be bad to tie in there? Current would flow from one solenoid terminal to the fuse holder to the ammeter to to second terminal.

I can't see whare that would cause a problem but...you guys know this stuff better than I do.
 

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You can break into the main line just about anywhere you want. The shorter the run of lines to the gauge, the better.
 

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That's what I thought. I want to break in there because then I know I can get really good connections and if there is a problem there is easy access to it. Will install the ammeter on the left side of the fairing and the voltmeter on the right.
 

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You know we'll want pics when you have it completed.
 
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