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So I'm doing the winter maintenance and I wanted to clean the "dirty, stinky" oil from the forks. ( I rebuilt them with progessives last winter) One season on new oil and I could hardly beleive how bad it is.

So anyway,,,,,,, I didn't want to pull the forks. So I got to looking at the tool "Nobbie" had made,,,,,,, this is his,,,,,,,,,

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/111997.html

I had to get the cap off first in order to install the washer with the small 3/16 hole. So I was able to use the tool with socket & extensionto first unscrew the cap. This does work,,,,,, but when getting to the last thread or two, there is still a HIGH amount of pressure from the spring. And that could "Pull"those last two threads and ruin the forks.

Thus,,,,, "Nobbie's Idea" ,,,, compresses the spring for both disassembleing and reassembling.I consider it " Sheer Genius" On Nobbie's part :applause::thumbsup:

Ok,,,,,,, this got long winded,,, here's my toolin the first mode for removing the cap in order to replace the washer,,,,,,,,





And now very much like Nobbie's,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

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Nice bit of tooling there, Dave

Cany you desribe your build of it?



Dusty
 

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Dusty Boots wrote:
Nice bit of tooling there, Dave

Cany you desribe your build of it?



Dusty
I just knew someone would askfor a how to. :cool:

I'll have to get some pics for a few steps. I'll try to get it together and on here later tonight.
 

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Ok,,,,,, here’s how I did,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

First needed is something to go under the triple clamp and around the fork. I had these 2 bearing flanges (that’s what I call them). I think they were 1 ½” ,,, I then bolted them together and was able to cut them equally. I welded them together that way, but it wasn’t needed.



Oops,,,,,, almost forgot,,,,, I had to spread it open a bit,,, so I used a large socket and hammered the socket into the flanges.

Next thing is the hardware. I used one piece of 5/8 threaded rod,,,,, and 2 pieces of 5/16 threaded rod,,,,,, one 4 x ¼ Grade 8 bolt.



Find the center of the 5/8 rod,,,,,,,,,,,,



Drill and tap to ¼-20 thread,,,,,,



Now cut the head off the 4 x ¼ bolt, and grind ever so little of the end. So that it just fits in the 3/16 hole of the washer that is taking the place of original washer on the fork springs.



Now screw that into the 5/8 rod,,,,,,,,,,,



The body is 1 ½ “ wide x 3 ½ long,,,,,,,,, drill the 2 outside holes (5/16) to match the holes on the bearing flange,,,,,,,,,, and one hole in the center for the 5/8 rod.



I welded a nut for the 5/8 rod,,,,,,,,,,,,,,



With a few nuts,,,,,,,,, it went all together,,,,,,,,,

 

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Very nice tutorial, Dave! :coollep::claps::claps:

Even I could follow that! :laughing:

Guess I should hit the "Watch Topic" tab on this one for future reference! :cooler:



On ... BTW .... I told you you'd be amazed at how dirty the fork oil gets so quickly. :shock:

That's why I changed mine 3 X in total this past season. Once when I rebuilt the forks. When I got home after you left/before I went to my riding club's National Rally in Ottawa and once again after I last saw you at the NE Rally, in Front Royal.

Each time the oil was dirty/stinky!
 

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Yes, nice tool! Sure beats the notched wooden stick I use.

But if you are only changing the fork oil, there is an easier way that doesn't involve removing the cap at all. When I change mine I:

- release air pressure
- open one fork plug
- attach short hose
- apply a little air to force existing oil out into a measuring cup
- Let 'er drain until no more oil
- note the amount collected and discard
- cap drain
- repeat for second side

To Fill:
- Measure required amount of new oil into measureing cup
- Cap one drain
- connect short hose to open drain
- free end of hose into the measuring cup
- use Mini-Vac to draw a vacuum
- watch the oil be drawn up like a teen-ager on a Mickie D's Coke
- cap the drain and repeat on second side.

NOTE: If old oil measurement differs greatly from the recommended fill amount, it might be time to replace seals.
 

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But what about when you don't have an air valve?

Air valves are not standard on a lot of Aspencade/SE models in other parts of the world!
 

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Good point DB.
 

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I like it. This isn't a tool one uses every day so why not keep it simple.I was about to start looking around for some simple bits and pieces so anybody could fabricate their own when needed. Good work Winger.
 

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Then you have to remove the fork cap and do this, then you can use/build the tool that Winger shows how to make.












Once you have the fork cap removed, you drill it and then use a tap to thread it to add either a set of air valves, or a button head hex bolt like I did.



Dusty
 

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"I had these 2 bearing flanges ... "

I was wondering, where would one get these? Are these stock items in a good old fashioned hardware store? Everything else looks easy to obtain.
 

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jlbc212 wrote:
"I had these 2 bearing flanges ... "

I was wondering, where would one get these? Are these stock items in a good old fashioned hardware store? Everything else looks easy to obtain.
I got mine at a "Tractor Supply",,, don't know if you have them in your area,,,,,,, but most lawn mower/light equipmentshops and the like, would have them.
 

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Dothe bearing flanges slip under the top web of the triple tree? And at that point are they just going around the fork tube? If so, what is the diameter of the fork tube? In other words what is the minimum diameter of the flange part?
 

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wingsound wrote:
Dothe bearing flanges slip under the top web of the triple tree? And at that point are they just going around the fork tube? If so, what is the diameter of the fork tube? In other words what is the minimum diameter of the flange part?
Sorry I haven't been that specific,,,, and right now I can't remember exact sizes. But I'm sure the "flanges" were between 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 inch.

Oh,,, andYES,,,,, they do slip under the triple tree and around the fork tube.

If you go back tothe first post,,, you will see a link to "Nobbie's" tool. And he shows how it is mounted.
 
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