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Discussion Starter #22
Yes. Since the wires have already been cut try removing the tape and see what's there. That might be your problem if the stator tests good... Read my post again: With the engine OFF you are checking for continuity between the wires, about 1-3 ohms, and then shorts to ground.. With the engine RUNNING, you are checking for AC Voltage. MAKE SURE the wires are clear of any ground points!!!!!!

Let us know what you find!!

Edit: After looking at the pic some more it appears at least one of the wires have been replaced going to the regulator. If it were me, I'd pull the fake tank cover and inspect the regulator/rectifier connector. You'll need to do that anyway because if the stator tests good, the connector there is the next area you'll need to look at for burning...

This ain't the first time we've been down this road!! Everything I'm posting I have done to my bike as have a lot of the other posters!! Be patient and we'll get there!!
I was the one who opened up that wire with white tape on it. I wanted to see if they were soldered
 

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It's an easy test. Cut the 3 wires unless you want to test at the reg/rec. In any order you like assign the 3 yellow wires A-B- and C. Mix and match as you like but make sure you are testing the wire end that is coming UP from the stator. Now set your meter on AC volts and with the engine running at about 3,000 RPM you should read about 50 volts or more if you check wires A to B. Same if you check B to C. Lastly A to C. All done.
As Dave said the voltage test is a better test than the resistance (ohm) test as if you are checking resistance it can read fine under no load but just fail miserably under a load. Check with the AC volt test and you can't go wrong. 😎
 

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Welcome to the forum. Need pics of your bike. Lots of good advice and information on this forum. View attachment 322924

Depending on your location in Canada depends on the price you pay for these older bikes. If the stator is bad, you can replace or do an external alt mod, and the install of the external alt mod if you take your time can look very good. I've attached a picture of the left side of my '85 and you will be hard pressed to notice that there is an alt mod unless I told you. I have the '85 1200 engine out for a rebuild, and can send pictures of the mounting brackets I made for the external alt mod and dimensions if you would like.

If you take the engine out to do a stator replacement, replace the sprague clutch bits, or at least clean up that area. Check the clutch itself. Won't hurt to look at the steel plates to see if these were overheated or not. I know that these clutches last a long time, but if you are going to keep the bike a new set of friction plates wouldn't hurt.

You can keep the costs down by doing a lot of research on the internet, and by being your own mechanic. You do need the OEM service and the Electrical Troubleshooting manuals. These will answer a lot of your questions.

Older bikes are not inexpensive to own. Unless you have had the same bike for years, there will be an upfront cost to get the bike safely on the road, then the issues that will come up as you own it, generally in the soon after you bought it time frame.

I would recommend doing some initial maintenance such as:

Timing belts (first on everyone's list when buying a used older GW)
Change all the fluids - clutch/brake/coolant
Brake pads - brake pads do deteriorate with age, new can't hurt
Air compressor - tucked up in the fairing. Desiccant will need to be changed/refreshed
Front fork oil change - good fall/winter work project
Rear spline lube - remove rear wheel, final drive, drive shaft, u-joint - inspect and lube with a suitable molybdenum product - I use Loctite LB 8012
Plugs, air/fuel filters, normal maintenance stuff

Doesn't matter which used older bike you get, there will always be work/maintenance to be done, but you can't beat the ride of the GW for touring or two up travel. Great for riding around town as well. I will mention that if you are going to do the work and try to recoup your investment probably won't happen.

Good luck with your project. You will enjoy the bike once you get this issue sorted out. It's not all doom and gloom, but we are in Canada and with that comes a definite price/cost disadvantage that our friends in the south don't have.

Cheers
Red,I wouldn't mind seeing your alternator install.

Sent from my LM-X420 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Yup 2 show proper AC voltage 50/52 and 1 shows 20 same that read 1.6V on DC . So she's dead. Still was able to go on a nice 6 hour ride 470km yesterday .. battery is now 12.1v won't charge above.. but was still fun. Time to get that engine out.
 

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Yup 2 show proper AC voltage 50/52 and 1 shows 20 same that read 1.6V on DC . So she's dead. Still was able to go on a nice 6 hour ride 470km yesterday .. battery is now 12.1v won't charge above.. but was still fun. Time to get that engine out.
That's how my '85's OEM stator failed, I was on a ride and had installed a volt meter a couple months earlier, noticed this one day that after going through Waynesboro, stop lights, etc, took 10-15 miles to get volts back up. I knew it was likely the stator, but did the tests. Two legs OK, third leg was way low. I finished that ride with one eye on the volt meter.

Took a week doing it, spare time after work, used a piece of plywood cut to size of engine bottom, added ribs on one side to match fins, used another smaller piece under the plywood with center hole same size as jack head on small floor jack, put it in center …. was able to jack & move engine /trans using one hand on the jack, the other on the engine to balance, pull, push as needed. Rolled jack between wood blocks to set the engine on while I did the swap. Waxed every bracket, frame tube, etc. … and listed plugs unplugged, put back with dielectric compound in connections. I think I maybe tied carbs up. I used a new Honda "warrantied for life" stator and I put in a new stator plug, soldering wires at crimps on terminals.

Was in '98 as I recall, still going.
 

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Is randaks stator a quality stator ? I can buy a whole 1200 engine 67000kms only with a new randak stator installed.
His stuff is quality, I doubt he would sell them if they weren't.
 

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So I just bought a 1985 aspen with a bad stator (didn't know it was bad till 2 days later) is the poorboy solution still around to buy? Or am I stuck trying to do this new stator route where it could fail the second I start the bike? I never owned a old bike or had to work on them. Only ever new bikes..

Yamaha FZ07 2016 , MT09 2019 etc. What am I getting I to.. I paid 2000$ CAN for it.. 126k kms it looks amazing everything works but stator.

Give it to me straight.
I did the same thing. Tore the whole bike apart found other issues as I went through it, total invested in it was 1700. You'll be needing to pull the motor might as well replace the rectifier while your at it. Look on eBay for parts
 

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I had to do a stator on my 85 interstate. True, old bikes cost money to keep going. One of the guys on this site recommended Rick's Stator. I put it in my self over about three days. I used Rick's stator, MOSFET rectifier/ regulator, the wiring kit and the rear cover gasket. It has been working perfectly. Don't go cheap. You only want to do this once.
 
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