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Still new to the goldwing. about 1/2 mile into my commute I thought I was losing power going into a turn. Another 1/4 mile I decide to turnaround and head home to take a look. Being 11 PM it was pretty obvious when the shock boot caught fire from the glowing disc. Presumably from the leaking brake fluid. I beat out the flames, the local constabulary arrived and I made it home on the front brake after it cooled off.

Now the question:
I'll be rebuilding the master cyl, and unplugging the return hole that I am assuming is clogged. I'll replace the rubber in the caliper too, and the pads. Anything else?
cheers,
chriso
 

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Since you have an 1100, you don't have to worry about the dreaded linked brakes on the 1200 and up. Your issue involves only the rear brake. I would rebuild both the master cylinder, caliper, install new pads, and check the rotor for damage. If it actually got hot enough to cause a fire, there may be heat damage to the rotor. Look for a bluish color. You can get kits for the master cylinder and caliper for not much, and I recommend a SpeedBleader on the caliper. That way you can bleed it right the first time, without having to worry about whether you did it right or not.
 

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And don't forget to check that big black thing with the hole in the middle.....what do they call it?....oh yeah, the tire!

And since you have an "Interstate" 1100 you don't have to worry about the dreaded linked brake system. The '83 Aspencade had 'em.
 

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Yeah, I'll have to look in the light. Meanwhile I'm sitting at work smelling of smoke. I can do the $100 or so for the two rebuild kits, but the rotor will really set me back. Heh, in the 10 years I drove a Ural I never had it catch fire. Smoked a bunch, but never actual flame.
cheers!
chriso
 

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Now I know to stay away from the '83 Aspencade. Actually it is quite easy to convert back to regular brakes, at least on the 1200s, as there are no electronic parts on them.
 

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glhonda wrote:
And don't forget to check that big black thing with the hole in the middle.....what do they call it?....oh yeah, the tire!

And since you have an "Interstate" 1100 you don't have to worry about the dreaded linked brake system. The '83 Aspencade had 'em.
ALL 1983 models (Standard, Interstate and Aspencade) had the same linked brake system. The only difference the Aspencade has is the vented front rotors.
 

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Silicon Sam wrote:
glhonda wrote:
And don't forget to check that big black thing with the hole in the middle.....what do they call it?....oh yeah, the tire!

And since you have an "Interstate" 1100 you don't have to worry about the dreaded linked brake system. The '83 Aspencade had 'em.
 ALL 1983 models (Standard, Interstate and Aspencade) had the same linked brake system.  The only difference the Aspencade has is the vented front rotors.
+1
 

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New lines..they can collapse and cause the same issue..
 

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RB wrote:
New lines..they can collapse and cause the same issue..
Um...care to elaborate? Because lines collapse from vacuum. Brake lines are pressured so....?
 

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Silicon Sam wrote:
ALL 1983 models (Standard, Interstate and Aspencade) had the same linked brake system. The only difference the Aspencade has is the vented front rotors.
Thank you. I wasn't aware.



RB wrote:
New lines..they can collapse and cause the same issue..
Um...care to elaborate? Because lines collapse from vacuum. Brake lines are pressured so....?



Flexible brake hoses have an inner and an outer tube. If the inner tube collapses, it can prevent the fluid from returning to the reservoir,keeping force onthe brake caliper piston. Most of our lines seem to bulge, or bellow as they get old, but a collapsed inner hose is not unheard of.
 

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Scary, I've been lucky so far with cars and bikes had various fluids squirt and smoke but have managed to avoid the F word

Hope you get it all sorted
Bo
 

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While doing your investigation make sure your brake pedal is not sticking and keeping pressure on the brake. You can free it up with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench but still need to pull the pedal to clean and lube the shaft.(Voice of experience speaking again)
 

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Ummm, I really like my linked brakes. Took a small amount of getting used to but now I really dig it! Why exactly do I need to dread about them ? Or are you guys talking about a year specific problem?
PhuPhuPhnik-Welcome to the forum. Constabulary? I wasn't aware St. Charlesians were so proper! What'd they do, cite you for burning without a permit?:)
 

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wingsam41 wrote:
What'd they do, cite you for burning without a permit?:)
More than likely for not having a parade permit.:readit:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
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Thanks all for the advice! I bought a new caliper, lines and rebuilt the master. (that little return hole was fouled) After all this I couldn't afford a new disc, but it is still true. I might have an air bubble in there as it is a bit squishy, but it'll lock up the rear.
cheers,
chriso
 

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Twothings that can cause brake overheating besides asticking pedal are a plugged relief hole in the master cylinder and a stuck caliper. The smaller bolt attaching the caliper to the bracket passes through a sleeve that has to be free to slide in and out of the caliper. If that sleeve is stuck the caliper can't release the pressure of the pad against the rotor. If one of your brake pads was much thinner than the other one it's most likely the caliper sleeve is frozen and needs to be removed, cleaned and re-lubricated.
 

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Broke Winger wrote:
RB wrote:
New lines..they can collapse and cause the same issue..
Um...care to elaborate? Because lines collapse from vacuum. Brake lines are pressured so....?
Its true. Had that happen to the right front brake of a 78 Ford truck of mine. The innerhose collapses. When you press the brake pedal there is pressure to force the fluid thru but there is no pressure to force the collapsed hose open to let the pressurerelease.
 

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Ginsco wrote:
Broke Winger wrote:
RB wrote:
New lines..they can collapse and cause the same issue..
Um...care to elaborate? Because lines collapse from vacuum. Brake lines are pressured so....?
Its true. Had that happen to the right front brake of a 78 Ford truck of mine. The innerhose collapses. When you press the brake pedal there is pressure to force the fluid thru but there is no pressure to force the collapsed hose open to let the pressurerelease.
Blows then sucks.:ssshh:
 

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Can I get new hoses made if I just take them into a shop that says "we make hydraulic hoses?" No way I can afford stainless braided!

Too bad on the fire. I'd still consider a used rotor ASAP, if it was glowing also?
 

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brianinmaine wrote:
Can I get new hoses made if I just take them into a shop that says "we make hydraulic hoses?" No way I can afford stainless braided!

Too bad on the fire. I'd still consider a used rotor ASAP, if it was glowing also?
Brian, check with forum member Lopeah in this thread,

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum6/65982.html



He has a connection with HEL stainless lines for a reasonable price. I got mine thru him and I am very satisfied.
 
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