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Hello all,
Was just told this is the best site on the web for GW's. No kidding, go it in an email. After some browsing, it could be true
I am trying to be a conscienscious first poster, and give all the facts that I can. This GL1100A I have has 39k miles. It wasn't maintained well for it's miles. I'm right on the verge of pulling the carbs for rebuild. But it appears from reading the other threads and Dave Cambells website that the electrical issues go far deeper than I imagined for GW's. I'm hoping to actually find some of these gremlins lurking in my bike so I get the diagnosis right.
Another driving experience is going up a 1.5 mile grade nearby, the bike refuses to go over 80mph. In fact at full throttle I had to decrease the throttle to hold 80mph. It was acting like there was no fuel flow. I use this grade to test my 35-40 year old cars, and they fly up the grade.
First off the spark plugs that came in the engine showed a light tan on 3 and white on the 4th. I think the white one was cyl #3. Bad omen me thinks. The new plugs are showing all white on the right side, I still need to check the left side. Replaced the fuel filter but it was not plugged when I blew through it. A vaccum and flow/pressure check of the fuel pump showed it was ok at 2.0 psi output with good volume as well. Hmmm. This engine backfires like mad thru the carbs when cold. It's aweful. The primary chain takes such a beating.
Did find that the vacuum advance diaphram may be leaking as it won't hold any vacuum. The hose goes straight from #3 carb to the advance module. The hose does not leak. If I squeeze the hand pump rapidly I can get the vacuum advance to speed the engine idle up a bit. At 33mpg most of the time and 40mpg on a couple of all freeway drives, I think it could be improved. That's with no passenger or trailer or electrical loads.
Here are the symptoms from Dave's page that I see daily:
- hard to start and backfire when cold
- engine temperature spike up when you stop or run hot in parades (does get hotter sitting for just a minute)
- "valve noise" (it isnt)
- charging voltage less than 14.5 volts DC (about 12v at idle, 14.5 above idle)
Opinions?
Mike
Hello all,
Was just told this is the best site on the web for GW's. No kidding, go it in an email. After some browsing, it could be true
Another driving experience is going up a 1.5 mile grade nearby, the bike refuses to go over 80mph. In fact at full throttle I had to decrease the throttle to hold 80mph. It was acting like there was no fuel flow. I use this grade to test my 35-40 year old cars, and they fly up the grade.
First off the spark plugs that came in the engine showed a light tan on 3 and white on the 4th. I think the white one was cyl #3. Bad omen me thinks. The new plugs are showing all white on the right side, I still need to check the left side. Replaced the fuel filter but it was not plugged when I blew through it. A vaccum and flow/pressure check of the fuel pump showed it was ok at 2.0 psi output with good volume as well. Hmmm. This engine backfires like mad thru the carbs when cold. It's aweful. The primary chain takes such a beating.
Did find that the vacuum advance diaphram may be leaking as it won't hold any vacuum. The hose goes straight from #3 carb to the advance module. The hose does not leak. If I squeeze the hand pump rapidly I can get the vacuum advance to speed the engine idle up a bit. At 33mpg most of the time and 40mpg on a couple of all freeway drives, I think it could be improved. That's with no passenger or trailer or electrical loads.
Here are the symptoms from Dave's page that I see daily:
- hard to start and backfire when cold
- engine temperature spike up when you stop or run hot in parades (does get hotter sitting for just a minute)
- "valve noise" (it isnt)
- charging voltage less than 14.5 volts DC (about 12v at idle, 14.5 above idle)
Opinions?
Mike