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Bought some progressives and need to go out and find the correct size hex wrench. Do I need to remove the handlebars? I can see and reach the fork caps, but was wondering if somewhere in the process the handlebars will be in the way or be a problem. I'm guessing that I don't need to remove, but it is never discussed in any on the install threads
Thanks
 

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Hi reiny the hex wrench is 17mm you do not have to remove the bars put the bike on the center stand and a small jack under the engine to lift the front wheel just off the ground when you remove the cap put pressure down on the wrench so the cap dont hit you in the face and at the bottom of each leg on the anti dive remove the last bolt 10mm spanner so you can drain the oil and replace with new stuff
 

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I'm sure Rudy will chime in any minute but I'll take a whack at it. I doubt you'll get them back together without taking the forks off the bike. To do less is probably taking your life in your hands. It takes a great deal of force to re-install. Even the Progressives on my GL500 were a bear and I'm 200 lbs. I applied pressure and my son turned the ratchet.

Check out this thread:

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=89799&forum_id=1&jump_to=991217#p991217

And here's the tool Rudy made to safely put it back together:

http://goldwingtech.info/exavid/forktool.html

There are likely guys that have attempted to do the job without removing and have lived to tell about it. You'll hear from them in a bit. Too bad we don't have audio so you could hear the altered tone of their voices.:shock:
 

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for to reinstall the caps i made this out of 1 1/4 in pvc pipe so my son could push down and i could screw the caps back on you dont want to cross tread these
 

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No problem at all putting Progressives in my 1100.
 

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O.K....ran into a problem. Got the fork caps out O.K., although one was bear to crack open. Drained the forks, when I went to put the drain bolt back into the right fork,it wouldn't tighten down. I was careful not to cross-thread it when I put it in. When I took it back out, I was able to pull out of the fork what I believe is a metal shaving coiled up like a spring. The bolt shows no signs of cross-threading, so I tried it again. It turns in fine, but won't tighten down, it gets snug but then just keeps turning.
?????????????
 

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Did you loosen the triple tree before removing caps?

Common to strip out the fork tube if you don't......and I really hope you did not. How hard was it to crack the old girl? Mine was VERY HARD....and ran back to the site to ask for help. I think you may have a problem in that fork....as much as I hate to think it,
RED
 

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I haven't put anything in the forks yet because of the drain bolt not sealing. I wondering if either the drainbolt or shock threads are stripped. Although I would think if they were stripped, I would have trouble getting the bolt in???
 

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looks like the po put the drain bolt in on a cross tread and the tread has come out when you removed the bolt, if you get some locktite and remove the washer on the bolt you may just get the last tread in the fork DONT over tighten it or you will be back to square one let the locktite set and you should be ok
 

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or since it is aluminum it could have gotten over tightened and popped the thread.
You could re-tap next size bigger and get a different plug or heli-coil it and cut the tang off. You will have to flush that fork to make sure no metal is left behind.
Both of these task are reasonably simple if you know how to do it, otherwise find someone that has and let them help you.
 

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When I put the bolt in, it threads in nicely and there is no unusual play in the bolt if I try to wiggle it. That seems to tell me that there is proper thread, and not cross-threaded....does that sound right?
Since it will not snug tight, will locktite form the seal that I need?
 

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It should do or you can try plumbers tape on the tread as i said remove the washer so the bolt can go in that little bit more if you look in the fork leg see how much tread is left and may be a slightly longer bolt would suite
 

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Go get a Heli-coil kit from a parts store, autozone carries them here, and fix it right, you don't want to lose your fluid on a trip somewhere.
 

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Yep, best bet is a heli coil repair. It will be stronger than new and you can use the proper bolt to plug the hole. Using goop of any kind to hold the bolt in is a waste of time because it will eventually let go under pressure. Installing a helicoil is easy but you can usually find a machine shop that will put one in for you.
 

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Reinyrooster wrote:
I have heard talk about this heli coil repair...can someone explain to me exactly that it is and how your do it?
Better than me explaining if this works.:?
[flash=425,344]http://www.youtube.com/v/RFYa6sjhh_E&hl=en&fs=1[/flash]
 
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