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Ok, exactly what happens if the anti-dive doesn't work or is disconnected ?
 

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If it fails te forks often get stiff as a result. Why would you want to disconnect it anyway?
 

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tntriker wrote:
Ok, exactly what happens if the anti-dive doesn't work or is disconnected ?

Tntriker, the anti-dive keeps the front forks from diving on a hard or even a moderate stop.. When you stop your motorcycle the weight transfers to the front end causing it to drop orwhat is called dive (the bike pitches lower on the font & then therear or the bike tries to raise up)..

When it quits working the front end usually goes fairly low on hard braking..

The anti-dive is a device usually hooked mechanically or electrically to the front brake system that stops or slows the front forks from dropping on front brake application.. In most cases it just slows the flow of fork fluid through the fork valving & that causes a controlled hydraulic lock that allows the forks to settle out slowly.. Some bikes use electric controlled valving to do the same thing, & other bikes like my BMW RT use front suspension control arm angle to cause a natural anti-dive just by the proper placement of the ball joint & control arm pivots (most automobiles use a similar anti-dive geometry built right in the front suspension)..



Twisty
 

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Just to add a bit to what Twisty said. The mechanical anti dive unit is a very ingenous little contraption. The brake calipers are designed to pivot or rotate a bit when the brakes are applied( the rotating rotars supply the force as the pucks make contact) This then forces a caliper pin against a plunger at the bottom of the forks which in turn restricts the flow of oil in the fork and prevents their rapid collapse upon hard braking. I sort of figured that out when I was replacing the rubber seals around the unit.:goofygrin:
 

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I wondered exactly how the anti-dive worked...thanks for the explanation!

Jack
 

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The screwdriver adjustment on each fork lower on the anti dive sets the restriction rate of the oil passage for more or less anti dive action.
 

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The only thing that leaves me wondering about this setup is that the forks are'nt really linked together. Thefoot brake applies one front and one rear caliper and the hand brake only one front caliper. So if your into a hard stop with only one brake, you are only activating one forkanti dive unit, thereby leaving the other fork compressing normally. Not that I only use one brake,butthere are times that I do. This makes only one fork stiffen up and the other soft. You would need equal pressure applied from eachfront caliperto get full functionof the anti dive. I do sometimes notice astick sensation in the forkssometimes on realease of the brakewhen only thefoot brake is applied, but notice it less when using both hand and foot brake. Just my thoughts.

Jerry
 

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On a bike, this is true. However, on a trike, the hand lever applies both calipers on front and foot brake works both rear.
 

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An excellent point Ziggyy. I guess that the key word here is HARD braking--when one would assume that both calipers would be activated. Not sure that much anti dive action would be necessary with anything but very hard braking. That is making me do some smoke causing thinking.:?
 

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tntriker wrote:
On a bike, this is true. However, on a trike, the hand lever applies both calipers on front and foot brake works both rear.
That also leaves me thinking. When they do a trike conversion, do they put two calipers and discs on the rear axle, or does it stay they same with only one?



Jerry:?
 

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The DFT trike kit is the only one I know that uses the original Honda rear rotor & caliper, thus having only one rear brake along with the 2 calipers on the front...All other trike kits that I'm familiar with (Lehman, Motortrike, Champion, CSC) use 2 rear calipers and rotors so that the foot brake operates 2 rear brakes, and the handle brake controls the 2 front brakes...There may be others like Tri-king or Trike shop that do theirs differently.....
 

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Well actually, Motortrike uses drum brakes on the rear if I'm not mistaken. Maybe one other.
 

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At least on the 1200's the anti dive sure doesn't seem to do a heck of alot. Ive played with the settings and there doesn't seem to be much difference between full hard and full soft.
 

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gkiesel wrote:
Ive played with the settings and there doesn't seem to be much difference between full hard and full soft.
Yeah, I've had that complaint from my old lady before......:cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1:

Gene:waving::15grey::15grey::15grey:
 

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I Knew, I just Knew,! I was going to get it for that one.:doh:
 

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Mine (84 I) don't seem to be doing much either - Are they rebuildable without tearing down the whole front end. MTL should do that anyway as the handle bars are tweaked a bit to the left. Still rides and tracks fine. A little less dive would be nice.
 

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NDAna wrote:
Mine (84 I) don't seem to be doing much either - Are they rebuildable without tearing down the whole front end. MTL should do that anyway as the handle bars are tweaked a bit to the left. Still rides and tracks fine. A little less dive would be nice.
NDAna, yes you can pull the valve bodies off & clean the valves out.. Also make sure the calipers can move the bushings in the valves when the brakes are applied.. You also need BOTH front brakes applied HARD to get a much anti dive action..

I wouldn't expect too much form the older Honda anti-dive system.. In a way it is mis-named,, it should have been called "anti fast dive".. The 1200 system does allow dive as it only slows the dive rate.. To get much action from the anti dive you really need top quickly & violently apply both front brakes (almost do a stoppie).. Remember you still need some dive to allow proper front end weight transfer during heavy braking...



Twisty
 
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